78xcgxl

Dohc doesn't interest you mate?

Better off with EFI though it would work. there is nowhere to install a dizzy in a BA block so you would need a computer to run it anyway.
Locking cams is also a stupid idea. You have all the features of a BA motor why remove them all and go backwards? 

I run have used both products and i prefer resomat and it is also cheaper which is a bonus. On my daily driver XC, i have resomat on all the floor pan and it has made a big different, i'm also running under felt which is a must as well. The standard size box will just not make covering the whole floor pan in a X series falcon but in a ute it should be plenty. When i change the headlining i will also put so resomat on the roof as well as well as sticking the factory fiberglass insulation as well.

From personal experience I would use Resomat:- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Resomat-Premium-Car-Auto-Sound-Deadener-3-50-sq-mtr-box-/141212268519?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e0e837e7&_uhb=1
 
Dynomat is good but resomat is a way better product suited to Australian conditions not like dynamat which is not.
This will not only cut down noise but will stop heat entering for a longer period of time than dynamat.
 
Used both and resomat is a product I recommend to all.

Well hi guys just an update, I wired up the wires for the neutral safety switch in the au loom by bridging them over and no luck on that. I took it for a drive around the block and still the same issue, what was even more strange is that when i parked the car back inside it refused to go past 2500 rpm in neutral as well. While the car was running i unplugged the coolant sensor to see if would make any difference, and all it did was make the engine idle higher but when reved it still refused to go past 2500. I then switch off the car, plugged the sensor back engine and started the car. This time round the car was able to now rev past 2500 and hit the limiter, I did 3 pulls and the car was able to all 3 times rev past the 2500 and hit the limiter three times in neutral. Not sure what i should do next, i'm thinking of swapping out the crank and cam sensors?

hmm how can one till if the engine is in Limp mode with a manual trans? i though limp mode only occurred on engines with an auto and meant the tranny was stuck in 3rd. I've also got the J3 clip to remove limp mode all together.

Problem occurs with the tacho connected or disconnected, resistor wire was deleted but keep in mine however the car is on coil packs so tacho signal comes from the ecu also the old coil wire is now simply an ING source.

hmm how can one till if the engine is in Limp mode with a manual trans? i though limp mode only occurred on engines with an auto and meant the tranny was stuck in 3rd. I've also got the J3 clip to remove limp mode all together.

Alright thanks for the replies, turned out that when i went to cut the portion of the loom that goes to the Auto trans (running a T5 box so not required)off the main engine loom i cut the wires for the injectors power supply. Took me fucken almost 5 hours to work it out, tried everything before that. Anyways I joint all the wires up, soldered and heat shrink, and the engine fired up like a champ, running awesome as well. I can finally sleep tonight and hopefully the car will next week finally hit the road. Can’t wait!

Maybe something to think about, but  what I do for a living has lot to do with air movement, static pressure as well atmospheric pressure, air speed etc etc. In my line work we  run  fans that draw  air through cooling pads, blackout pads and some cases filters on a large scale. The structure of these are very similar to radiator structure. The air to be drawn require alot of effort from a fan. In some cases a fan can work an extra 10% to acheive the correct air movement for purpose intended. If any of these are either clogged, over crowded/cluttered to prevent stable air flow or in most cases of the wrong design for the purpose intended (fan not right size or cooling, blackout or filter wrong size) the result is reduced cooling/air movement, overheating and failure of fan by burnout. Since the problem only occurs at traffic condition and your fan been replaced it maybe struggling to draw air through radiator, oil and auto cooler and if you have air con also condensor as well. So with a clevo and worked that already runs warm and you don't believe its the motor then either something up front is clogged or not up to the task. Maybe oil cooler and auto cooler are creating dead spots on radiator due to structure as aftermarket ones are of a tight structure and don't take much to clog up or as you said you believe radiator is not up to the task due to size of radiator to exchange heat efficently. Ideas anyway for you, just hope it makes sense and sorry if its long winded got 1 more day before weekend after doing a 12 day straight shift and I am fucked. 

My XC still runs original lower ball joints and tie roads with 190,000 km on them now and they are nice and tight, the upper ball joints have been replaced. The original stuff is great and i'm going to source a good set of second hand original tie rods for my GXL much better than that Chinese shit they are selling. It surprises me the amount of people who waste money by replacing ball joints and tie rods just because the rubber boot is stuffed when the actual part is still good.

My XC still runs original lower ball joints and tie roads with 190,000 km on them now and they are nice and tight, the upper ball joints have been replaced. The original stuff is great and i'm going to source a good set of second hand original tie rods for my GXL much better than that Chinese shit they are selling. It surprises me the amount of people who waste money by replacing ball joints and tie rods just because the rubber boot is stuffed when the actual part is still good.

Fuck engineering

yes i have used the internet to learn about cars but not this, more about when i've forgotten a spark plug gap, or am having an issue i cant work out.
 
i learn't how to rebuild/work on cars by someone who knew what they were doing, he is a licensed mechanic, skill & knowledge wise he is in the top 5% of mechanics in the country, hes forgotten more than most mechanics will ever know that i can guarantee. not many people had workshop experience at under 8 years old like i did, and i am quite aware of that, i am trying to help you so don't take it as an attack.
 
im not rich, infact quite the opposite, but you are asking some very basic questions about a lot of very serious components of the car, it is clear from your understanding that you do not know what you are doing, rather then be arrogant and DIY, be smart, and possibly save yourself some serious pain.
 
i see this stuff go sideways all the time, this is not something you should be attempting on your own. if you don't know the basic names for the parts, its not likely you have the skill or understanding the importance of doing them right.
 
again, im not having a go at you, im trying to help.
yes i agree a picture says a thousand words, but you don't actually realise what you have shown.
 
by the way, if your in VIC send me a PM and i'll see what i can do parts wise.
you not having the skill to repair this, is not your fault, maybe it came across as offensive but that was not my intent. you do not posses the skills to do this job safely, and it isn't worth the risk. infact risking it shows a lot of arrogance and immaturity.
 
if you want help, ask people on here if they are mechanics by trade and in your area, who knows you might be lucky, give them some cash or the likes, and they will teach you. that is the proper way of learning, if i went through the checklist for even a simple pad change, it would be well over 2000 words in detail. or half an hour of explaining face to face and things to look for etc there is too much involved to be written down on a simple 10 lines of text.
 
there is a lot of knowledge behind what you are doing, you don't realise for example, there is probably 2 tonnes of load on an upper balljoint under standard cornering.
 
im looking out for you, not trying to disinterest you. id much rather a job done properly then have to deal with the aftermath of a simple mistake. a  poor man pays twice. do it once, do it the right way and you are sweet.
 
let us know what you want to do to the car, how you plan to use it in the future, and we will advise.

can't work out if this is a troll or not...
if it's not, do not fix this yourself. the fact you had to google the issue shows your inexperience, meaning its not safe for you to repair this yourself.
 
your maintenance schedule must be up shocking for the ball joint to get that bad.
 
older vehicles do not need weekly checks, what they need is someone who knows what they are doing to service the car. these things rarely randomly fall apart, and when they do its usually either due to extreme circumstances or cheap parts.
part of every service should be going over the car, its easy to spot wear and tear items these should have been spotted long ago, also pic 2 is swaybar link pins. yes they need replacing.
 
the front end is not a strut front end, its a shock absorber, strut holds the spring and shock as one unit, shock absober is seperate, and yes if they are leaking that is a major issue, but again this can be felt in normal driving.
 
doesnt matter if a car is new or old, when you buy it, you go over it from top to bottom work out what needs replacing/tightening and get it done, from then on maintenance is periodic.
 
please, for your own safety and the safety of others around you, take this to a licensed mechanic to be repaired.
going by the looks of what you have thrown up. im going to give you an honest suggestion, rebuild the suspension all the way through the car, front to back, new bushes, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, rotors and pads. do not skimp on quality.
 
DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF!!!

For that price you could of fitted a t56 magnum which is much better gearbox than a standard tr6060 and the gear shift location would be in the same spot as per the factory.

For that price you could of fitted a t56 magnum which is much better gearbox than a standard tr6060 and the gear shift location would be in the same spot as per the factory.

I think everyone is entitled to there opinion that is what the forum is for. I tend to agree at that budget I would look at a 4 litre.
 
Trent250's name leads me to believe he like 250 crossflows. so if he can do the work himself I think $3000 could go a fair way.

For the trouble it's worth, i'd drop in a 4.0L, cheaper, more power, great on fuel and just all-round shit loads better. Just my 5 cents.

Oh dear I’ve offended a crossflow purist, my bad. Sorry I’ll won’t voice my opinion and share my ideas then, thought that‘s what the forum is about, but okay.

4.0, 12+ comp, e85.. Just sayin

For the trouble it's worth, i'd drop in a 4.0L, cheaper, more power, great on fuel and just all-round shit loads better. Just my 5 cents.

Already Done as the BA engine was a spare one that i had lying around to i gave it to someone else
 

Yup
 

Haha love the photo with the Barra in the boot, only thing different i would done is replaced the crossflow with the barra in the engine bay and chucked the crossflow in the boot!