SPArKy_Dave

The way i did the tall bloke thing with steering wheel thing is buy a set of scheel esp seats and fit them without the metal racks only cost you 5grand 😬it did work tho.

The bench seat, in my Green XE wagon would not slide at all, when I first bought it.
I found the seat rails were cracked, as you mentioned - which I reinforced via small welded gussets.
 
Even with the gussets, it still never been perfect.

lowering an XG Outback?... 😧
 
 
 
 

Spoke to my upholsterer on Friday who was doing a headlining for another of my cars, he reckons it’s pretty easy to drop the seat height , by taking foam out, also the rails can be modded with the correct engineering apparently, so it looks like a good project to sort out!

this image will expire any day or so, i got it from ebay (right click, copy image address and paste her on pc)
 
that red covered wire from where you describe is the speedo sender, just undo and remove the bolt, and the whole speedo drive will pull out of the extension housing  (careful with the wires, they like to snap off right close to the sender itself)
 
there's nothing in there that will fall out, try to keep it clean inside naturally (clean the outside as best as possible)
 

Cheers guys, have spoken to Adam and Global Trim but no joy on the Chamois colour. I am a member of most of the FB pages so will continue to ask around


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There's a guy on marketplace and other FB groups, (Adam I think his name is) who has obtained and hoarded stock, of old Ford/Holden seat fabrics.
He charges a kings ransom for it apparently.
 
Global Trim in Wodonga, may have reproduction (or old stock?) S-pack material in Chamios.
 
Or try ringing around some old-school motor trimmers, who may have a roll still?
 

From new, they were painted a semi-gloss black enamel.
Possibly a dip-coat originally?
 
Word of safety advice -
I'd never run a polyurethane steering coupler under any circumstances. (as you've pictured)
Poly tends to split and crumble with age, and they're not fibre reinforced either.
IMO, they should not be offered for sale, in that application.
 
I'd suggest to fit a new reinforced rubber steering coupler instead.

From new, they were painted a semi-gloss black enamel.
Possibly a dip-coat originally?
 
Word of safety advice -
I'd never run a polyurethane steering coupler under any circumstances. (as you've pictured)
Poly tends to split and crumble with age, and they're not fibre reinforced either.
IMO, they should not be offered for sale, in that application.
 
I'd suggest to fit a new reinforced rubber steering coupler instead.

From new, they were painted a semi-gloss black enamel.
Possibly a dip-coat originally?
 
Word of safety advice -
I'd never run a polyurethane steering coupler under any circumstances. (as you've pictured)
Poly tends to split and crumble with age, and they're not fibre reinforced either.
IMO, they should not be offered for sale, in that application.
 
I'd suggest to fit a new reinforced rubber steering coupler instead.

On 12/23/2022 at 9:14 AM, wok said:
it looks best at the ride height in the last pic, 
 
 
 
do you have a write up on how you have the airbags in the car ? what you used etc ?
 
 
I had a full write up on the air bag install on Xfalcon.
I used ride tech shockwaves front and rear, made a custom triangulated 4 link for the rear and the complete system is controlled by ride pro level sensors and electronics.
 

EZ185 and 187 are Polar and Glacier white respectively I believe.
 
Fleet colour EZ186, will most likely be a white.
It's not a Ford specific colour, but rather from a generic book of fleet colours, for use by any manufacturer.
 

After programming two new keys, or re-keying the replacement lock barrel... yes.
From memory, AU's need two keys for programming.
It won't accept just one key.

Electricity takes the path of least resistance.
 
Those LED globes must've had a high resistance from brake to earth connection,
and a lower resistance, from brake to tail light connection.
 
If the globe is slightly undersize, and doesn't contact the lamp holder socket earth properly, it'll do the same.
 
 
 

Worked like a charm!

And get the injectors flowed and ultrasonically cleaned. (or replace them with new injectors)
 
If you replace the O2 sensor, only use NGK brand.
NGK is the Ford OEM supplier.
Other club members have tried other brands, and found them to fail after a short while.

These days, it's usually the outer door latch mechanism, that seizes up.
Especially with x-series which have been sitting. (higher chance of sticking, if exposed to the weather also)
 
I've encountered the above problem, multiple times now - dealing with aged XD-XF's.
 
I've personally not had any real luck yet fixing the problem apart from removing door trims
(and also pinch-weld seals - to better expose the stuck outer mechanism)...
 
then drowning the inner and outer mechs with a Penetrene/WD40/CRC type spray.
 
Sometimes they've come loose after doing that, and sometimes not.
I've got one rear door and one front door - still stuck after 12mths.
 
Moving forward, I would be inclined to pack the outer mech's with a general purpose zinc or lithium grease
or similar lubricant - a grease which won't degrade small plastic or nylon parts, which may be present inside the latch mech.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Theres a dude on facebook with a stack of chrome cain ones for cheap price


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My 2 cents - if it works, it works.
 
BTR's can be finicky things, when not maintained.
I've directly experienced ones playing up under 200,000km, and others still be working fine at over 600,000km
 
If it were mine, I'd probably remove the valve-body to check the B1 and B2 band clearances and re-shim if needed.
Then if within spec, I'd re-assemble, change the fluid, and re-install the trans.
 
If a BTR's B1 band can't grip the drum to stop it spinning when commanded, the trans will lose 2nd and 4th gear.
 
In my experience, second hand BTR's almost always have faults, despite what any seller says.
I regard them, as rebuildable cores.

What it says on the box.
The stock EFI temp sensor on a crossy.

0.5ºC - 86650 Ω
19.0ºC - 26000 Ω
99.8ºC - 2130 Ω

For use in aftermarket ECU if retaining the factory sensor.
I'm doing a huckout and I Just found the bit of paper i wrote this on circa 2006.

Also, stock injectors 0280150-726 # 86DA-AA 18.66lb/H (196cc/m) 14.0ohm Est max hp 39.