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Zok race carbs and engines. Zoran has been around carbs of r many years and has his own chassis dyno. Southside of Brisbane. Nice bloke.

I can promise you that I wont be cutting up my car, thats the only reason Im not using the coilover setup for the front that Ando put up. For the amount of bullshit Ive gone through so I dont cut a hole in the bonnet I see that there is always a way not to hack shit up, its just not the easiest way. Far from it

Just don't cut the car up lol that's what my shell is for :-)
 
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Absolutely none, but there are plenty of reasons why you should:
 
* The hotter the engine, the more efficient it is (to a point, then knocking and seizing are issues). This is because heat loss to the cylinder when cold is greater than when hot. Heat is what causes expansion thus the more expansion (bang) the more torque.
 
* A hot engine atomises the fuel better, requiring less enrichment for the same power. Conversely, a cold engine needs to run rich because only a percentage of the fuel gets burnt properly. The rest goes out the exhaust.
 
* A cold engine has fuel condensing on the cylinder walls, diluting with the film of oil on them and ends up in the sump. An engine that runs cold a lot will have oil that smells like petrol. The oil thins out over time and loses its film strength.
 
* The Water pump needs a restriction to pump against (ie thermostat). Not having one causes a low pressure area in the middle of the impeller and a cavitation bubble forms, reducing the pump's efficiency and causing damage to the blades over time.
 
* A cold engine has poor emissions performance, and some functions may be disabled (ie can purge, egr). Not that anyone cares, but needs mention.
 
* A cold engine has looser clearances, so will use more oil.
 
* Cold oil has a high viscosity, and has poor splash lube capability (ie bores and camshaft)
 
So in summary, yes you should run a thermostat.

Yes. You might need to move it back to the second by hole on the chassis.

Sorry if this has been answered before but couldn't find anything on phone, does the crossmember from xd with BW box bolt up to a c4?
 
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MkII came out late 2011.

Yup knew they had a bung. Have drilled one with no dramas too though

my first experiance fitting a set of 2v extractors was parking the xb over a large drain ,jumping down the hole while a mate was helping guiding the headers to the bolt holes LOL,omg.

Nath got his set today but won't put them on cause blah blah blah. I am interested to see how they go as they are more expensive than a set of bilsteins and custom king springs, which when used with a shelby drop I would be thinking would provide better handling than the coilovers. This is only my opinion and am happy to be proved wrong but to me the specs on the coilover are more suited to looks than handling.

Get a set of arp extractor studs.
That way you can slip the gasket on & slide the extractor in & over the studs & chuck the nuts on.
That's my setup & I wouldn't go back to bolts again!
Preferably on a hoist, jack the motor off the mounts as far as you possibly can without hurting anything. ( your mate probably would have a wind up stand or at worst a transmission jack ).
Feed the extractor in from under the car, you will need to get the starter motor out of the way.

The 4-into-1's fit OK, just a bitch to get them in there.!!  I've always put them in first, and lowered the engine in after.

Even 4-2-1s are a bitch on the steering box side. Mine came with a slip joint just before the collector so you can put in pipes 1 & 2 and then slip 3 & 4 in separately. That bloody slip joint leaks a bit though.

When I did my engine swap. I had the power steer box in, sat the driver side extractor in the bay and lowered the motor in. I would have never got it in there with motor in position. Bolting the pipes up was the worst part of the the swap. You have to try to center your mind into a meditation like state and contort you self into yoga type positions. But when it starts up its all worth it.

I don't think I had any problems fitting the drivers side extractor on my clevo which has 4 into 1 genies, only issue was I had to jack the front end up pretty high for clearance so I could manoeuvre the extractor into place & so the flange at the end wouldn't scrape on the ground.

Shit aye... Oh well it is what it is, just slap some log manifolds on in reverse and strap on a turbo haha
 
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These.....

 
 
NOT these.....

~9inch rim will pull in the sidewall more on a 295 tyre compared to a 10inch... Hence easier fit
 
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Where did i put that bloody ban stick? 

I'm not sure this will end well.
Looks are very subjective.
Au's may be "ugly" but they've aged better than anything from that era,and are the most reliable car ever built in this country.

Damn! 
 
I wish i hadn't just forked out for a new set of simmons now, been dreaming about these for years!!
 
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hurstville/wheels-tyres-rims/19-bathurst-style-globe-wheels-all-pre-au-fords-5x114-3-/1092735230
 

El/ef will go straight in with your bolt on's, can even go au with a mod to the sump and some other small changes
 
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I am into contact with Kendall baker
 
I will test the waters , i have a bad run with mechanics / anyone who touches my cars

Im gonna try to get a dyno tune in ASAP.


More on my Build thread. but basically Its going to be just an EL ecu and dyno tune, if all goes well ill send the head off somewhere 

Still a 4ltr nat asp engine and runs mid 11s