xcsam

Here you go trev, first fire after a new set of plugs

Yet another... Molasses dipping to remove rust. Apparently it's better than blasting or rust converting, but takes weeks to do.
 

And another advantage is that even if you thought you had absolutely no cuts on your hands, you'll soon find out that you do, big times.

So, if I left the train station at 11:45 am, with 297 people on board, how many oranges will I have if I dont stand perpendicular to the earth's crust?

nope, but it would make a shitload more torque. which is what you feel.
a 302 and 351 rebuilt with the same components will make the same HP, but nowhere near the same torque.

what i am saying, is if you put 2 engines back to back, exactly the same with different strokes, the one with the longer stroke will actually show LESS hp but a shitload more torque.
torque = rotating weight
crank is bigger (longer stroke, will increase torque) and heavier (will also increase torque due to rotating mass) = heavier rotating assembly = less hp but more torque.
 
its maths & physics. very simple physics and yes, 302s and 351s ran different carbies as well as a bunch of other differences from the factory. so yes there is a HP difference. they didn't just switch the bottom ends over. it has nothing to do with the stroke of the motor.
 
stroke does not gain HP, torque yes, but no HP.
 
ask any engine builder, mechanic or engineer if increasing stroke will increase HP, the answer will be no. ask Chaise or Thom.
 
yes changing the diff gears changes the final ratio, it increases the amount of turns it takes the driveshaft to turn the wheels one rotation, this acts as a torque multiplier. you just said the exact same thing i did.... changing diff gears, changes the amount of torque going to the wheels. if you went for 2.75:1 you would lower the torque at the wheels. if you went 4.11:1 you would increase the torque at the wheels. this does not effect how much torque the engine has, only the torque at the wheels. (which is where i think you are confused FORD_MAN)
 
this is why trucks, 4WDs etc have low range, because they need the torque in certain circumstances.

If you have 4 fingers and a thumb on each hand and you can use a screw driver and some basic tools I'd suggest easy.

Give me a couple of months (possibly years) and I'll post mine up... Reason being that I have to build it first.

And a pic of the engine for good measure

Most of us try to help around here even you do McFly so keep your replies coming.Not everyone acts like he doe's and as shown he was wrong anyway but that type of comment or attitude is far from helpful or not needed here.We can all have different views but we can voice them like adults too.

Mate if im wrong tell me? just don't dismiss what I say, how on earth is anyone supposed to learn anything if people are like that?

Makes me want to get off my arse and start mine.
 
Nah.......rather go to work.
 
 
Watching with interest to see the results. My XA has 35 years of crud, and its "babyshit brown"

Something is wrong with Tapatalk ??? <br />Anyways im just gonna go back to working on my <150rwkw corty ;-)

Lol yeah I get a bit carried away when people start talking paint since its about the only subject I can speak about with decent knowledge hahaha
 
If you like mcfly I can put up a glossary of terms?
I don't mind ill do it tonight when I get home from work

i read somwhere this thing was in the 12s somwhere but has 400rwhp? 400rwhp should go 10s even in a big falcon  
 
you building a a stroker for you missus to drive to the shops nice mate 

one hell of a sick prolonged fart

what about a rotary at 9 grand

a chunky fart. one of those ones that you check your dacks after

what do Harleys sound like then ?

Procomp is awesome thanos go for it.

When looking at the specs, ignore the advertised duration (the longer one) as this is not indicative of the true characteristics of the cam. Instead, look at the duration at 0.050" valve lift, that is when all the slack/flex in the valvetrain is taken up and when flow actually starts to happen. So if advertised duration is around say 280deg, then duration at 0.050" might be about 210deg. Lobe separation can indicate how much overlap the cam has but not always. It also depends on the shape of the lobe. Nevertheless, it's a general indication of how much overlap there might be.
 
With a given duration, if you have say a 108 deg LSA, then it will have more overlap than 110 or definitely 112. The narrower you go in LSA, the more scavenging effect at higher rpm but at the cost of low-rpm torque due to exhaust gas actually bouncing back into the cylinder, and will give a rougher idle. Scavenging needs a good exhaust to work, so running stock manifolds and single 2-1/4 with a wild cam is a silly move.
 
If you go wider in LSA, it will tame the idle somewhat and be more torquey but will start to run out of puff sooner. Go too wide and you'll drop volumetric efficiency because the inlet is open for too long and mixture will be pushed back out of the cylinder before it closes again.
 
Playing with cam timing alters the engine speed at which the cam works best. Advancing brings the rpm band down, retarding brings it up higher. A barely tolerable cam in a 351 might be too hairy for a 302, general rule is that things happen 500rpm later in a 302, so torque and power need more revs to start happening. You could advance the cam a little to compensate for the smaller engine but I'd just go one step down in cam size and install as instructed.
 
One thing about Clevos is that they like more exhaust duration, due to the fact that while the exhaust flows quite well, it's quite a lot less than the inlet. It's less than the accepted formula of 70% (or thereabouts), so to compensate, they make cams over a certain size with what they call a "split" duration, where the exhaust is held open a bit longer than the inlet to allow more complete scavenging.

Ah ok well you can always park it in the sun on a hot day and paint it with house paint.....