n00bus m@x1mus

Back to the ebay packages... this is the reply i got back from the seller i listed above for anyone interested.
 
 
Clint. All except the idler arm are Wasp units.
Idler is a Roadsafe one as Wasp do not do them in the standard form.
Ours are all good units. Nothing cheap and chinese about these.
I have sold them for over 30 years ..
Cheers
 
Rob Mills
Ringwood Auto Parts
PO Box 230
Hurstbridge
Victoria 3099
Australia
 
Phone 03 9714 8196
0408 104894
Fax 03 8692 6942

Subscribed......
 
Just about to commence an AU 4.0L conversion and starting to get some parts together.
 
So far ive got an AU1 motor complete running out of my ex daily and i just scored an EF Tickford head for the princely sum of 100 coin complete with everything.... cam, valves, rockers, cover the lot.  I also have access to the rest of  the EF XR6 motor so is there anything else i should grab before is slips by???
 
Got an AU T5 bell waiting to be picked up aswell... dont have a decent T5, only the XF one thats in the ute now but im hoping with some tender care it should hold for at least a while until i can build a better box.
 
Aslo picked up a set of PH4495 pipes to suit a barra that i was going to modify the bolt flange to fit the SOHC head... they are pretty damn close except for the top row of bolts so its either cut the whole flange off and tig another back on or try to manipulate this one.  Or sell the damn thing and spend the coin on an AU set yet.
 
Plans are the eventually supercharge it so while i might go with the EF head with more comp initially i might keep hold of the AU head and do that one for less comp around the 9.0:1 max mark to get some room for boost.

Or flip a car on its roof to pull the diff out with a forklift and a gas axe. Its like they think that the car one usefull part in it and they will just crush the rest. My pet hate was when some toss wants a stereo so they bust all the plastics out tear the door trims off and leave them lying in the dirt with the doors wide open completely destroying every part of the interior for a friggen second hand head unit.

Subscribed......
 
Just about to commence an AU 4.0L conversion and starting to get some parts together.
 
So far ive got an AU1 motor complete running out of my ex daily and i just scored an EF Tickford head for the princely sum of 100 coin complete with everything.... cam, valves, rockers, cover the lot.  I also have access to the rest of  the EF XR6 motor so is there anything else i should grab before is slips by???
 
Got an AU T5 bell waiting to be picked up aswell... dont have a decent T5, only the XF one thats in the ute now but im hoping with some tender care it should hold for at least a while until i can build a better box.
 
Aslo picked up a set of PH4495 pipes to suit a barra that i was going to modify the bolt flange to fit the SOHC head... they are pretty damn close except for the top row of bolts so its either cut the whole flange off and tig another back on or try to manipulate this one.  Or sell the damn thing and spend the coin on an AU set yet.
 
Plans are the eventually supercharge it so while i might go with the EF head with more comp initially i might keep hold of the AU head and do that one for less comp around the 9.0:1 max mark to get some room for boost.

Oh and strangely enough the AU head weighs 4kg less than the EF head.....  ?????  Quite noticable when you pick them both up over and over again.

Whats this cam like?  I mean how did you come to the decision to order it?  Reasons is i just bought an EF wreck for a few goodies and it had a crowcam in it with specs around that mark and i dont know whether or not its worth fitting it?  Its got a bit more lift than the XR cam ive got.
 
Crow 2222519
IN. 20/62  DUR-262  Lift at valve - .494"
EX.64/14  DUR-258  Lift at valve - .472"
LSA - 113
RPM RANGE 1200 - 4500
 
Im thinking its looking a bit small???  its got about 35 thou more lift on the inlet than the XR cam but and about 30 thou less lift than there largest listed cam.

That is fucking genius.

I have this setup in my xf.
 
Its easy to do, take an el loom and connect the 8 wires into the main xf wiring harness by the brake booster.  This will be basic switched power, oil lamp and coolant temp and kam (keep alive memory) and clutch.
 
Can then use a j3 chip and tuner pro rt to tune it.  If you have a moates quarter horse you can tune in real time too.
 
 
 
These two pictures describe it and taken from http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11173-eb-efi-management-to-run-an-efi-xflow-thread/
 
 
Am I allowed to post that without being vilified lol?
 

I did this many moons back, was an afternoons job and could have been refined a bit more but i ended up with an AU console in there aswell so it was never finished.
 

Ive got a twin screw from a 4.6L SVT mustang set asside with my name on it.. it will need some custom manifold work and maybe even some hood clearance to get it in there and with the right drive pulleys it will handle the 4.0l in its sleep and run a lot cooler than any centrifugal or turbo setup. Will probably end up with a water cooled manifold instead of routing it back out again for a front mount. But that is really at the end of the build, im not going to be attempting any of that for a good while.

So judging by your pics, your shock and spring package is irrelevant becasue your not using them anyways?

Wasnt the xg box like this as standard?

So judging by your pics, your shock and spring package is irrelevant becasue your not using them anyways?

So judging by your pics, your shock and spring package is irrelevant becasue your not using them anyways?

Just a simple sheet of 3mm aluminum bent to shape and fitted over the entire face plate as the hole was a lot larger than the B&M coverplate would cover.
then i just gave it a brushed finish with some 20 grit paper on the belt sander and then painted it flat black and then sanded off the face with some 600 which left the paint in the grooves and polished on the ridges.
Did something similar with the trip computer but out of 3mm perspex sheet
 

 

Probably would be, but its easy enough to remove it anyways, just a few plastic clippy things and it falls off. its not like your going to ever use it are you LOL

Just a simple sheet of 3mm aluminum bent to shape and fitted over the entire face plate as the hole was a lot larger than the B&M coverplate would cover.
then i just gave it a brushed finish with some 20 grit paper on the belt sander and then painted it flat black and then sanded off the face with some 600 which left the paint in the grooves and polished on the ridges.
Did something similar with the trip computer but out of 3mm perspex sheet
 

 

Noobs, i bought a kit from this seller on evil bay for Goldie and you described what i got, all WASP brand stuff except 
for the road safe product. 
Cant get the stuff through Repco in TRW  or Transteering brands so i bought the wasp kit off Rob on ebay.

Back to the ebay packages... this is the reply i got back from the seller i listed above for anyone interested.
 
 
Clint. All except the idler arm are Wasp units.
Idler is a Roadsafe one as Wasp do not do them in the standard form.
Ours are all good units. Nothing cheap and chinese about these.
I have sold them for over 30 years ..
Cheers
 
Rob Mills
Ringwood Auto Parts
PO Box 230
Hurstbridge
Victoria 3099
Australia
 
Phone 03 9714 8196
0408 104894
Fax 03 8692 6942

Clint, 
 
I can tell you that Wasp Units are very good, and i highly recommend them. My xf, the whole front end (ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm etc etc) is all Wasp, and my bushes are all Nolathane. The car has done i think about 60-80,000kms with all that in there, as a daily driver until the start of this year, and not a problem. everything is straight, tight and still works. the only thing i had to replace was the idler arm for roady because the urethane bush at one end split. i put the identical unit back in, and its been fine since. 
I have taken the car to Adelaide from melbourne with that suspension in it a few times now, and its all still straight. so, i rate the Wasp stuff pretty highly. 

I've siliconed mine and they never leak.
But as clint said make sure you clean all the old stuff off.

Clean all the old sealant off 100% and then apply a nice neat continuous bead of sikaflex or similar in the join. Remember more does not equal better.

Clean all the old sealant off 100% and then apply a nice neat continuous bead of sikaflex or similar in the join. Remember more does not equal better.

Clean all the old sealant off 100% and then apply a nice neat continuous bead of sikaflex or similar in the join. Remember more does not equal better.

Pro tip.. to get ur raised white lettering nice and bright use some 240grit paper on a flat block. The white lettering is actually a layer of white rubber under the the black that is machined back off to expose the white layer where its raised. Be sure to clean your tyres well before you do it but as you will mark the fresh rubber trying to scrub the muck off the black afterward.