n00bus m@x1mus

Im looking at some complete bolt in kits to suit either 65-66 or 67-70 mustang and im wondering if they are a straight bolt in item? Im guessing the top arms would be and maybe even the shocks but its just the lower arm and radius rods that im questioning will be the same. I have this kit in mind so i want to be able to work out if this is the way to go or not cheers. http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=rmp&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=5141

Hey so im in the middle of a big camp trailer refurb and i will be fitting it out with 12v power with the aid of some deep cycle batteries and charging it with solar panels. Im sort of getting a grasp of what works in the camping game but im sure i dont understand it enough to make some well informed decisions about what I should be spending money on. So if anyone here is into this sort of stuff please share on how you have yours set up and what works and doesnt work cheers. Currently i have acquired a pair of 180w panels that have regulators built into them and are wired to anderson plugs with about 2m of reach. I want to power a range of LED lights that im fitting into it and also an engle fridge/freezer which has a max draw of 2.5amps/hour if i understand that correctly. I dont have a want for 240v but i think i should install a half decent inverter for those odd things that you might want to power when out the middle of nowhere. So what im needing is a pair of deep cycle batteries... what AH rating and construction im unsure on. Also a solar controller that will be suitable to best make use of the panels i have now. i was going to get a Ctek float charger aswell to hardwire into the system and use that to run the entire thing when at powered sites instead of setting up the panels... which model is recommended? apparently there are combined solar/14.4v/240v units that will accept all those inputs and regulate power to your batteries at the best output to ensure max charge rates and battery conditioning. I cant seem to find which unit that is or whether or not it is the best way to go over seperate units doing there own job.

Probably would be, but its easy enough to remove it anyways, just a few plastic clippy things and it falls off. its not like your going to ever use it are you LOL

Just a simple sheet of 3mm aluminum bent to shape and fitted over the entire face plate as the hole was a lot larger than the B&M coverplate would cover. then i just gave it a brushed finish with some 20 grit paper on the belt sander and then painted it flat black and then sanded off the face with some 600 which left the paint in the grooves and polished on the ridges. Did something similar with the trip computer but out of 3mm perspex sheet

I did this many moons back, was an afternoons job and could have been refined a bit more but i ended up with an AU console in there aswell so it was never finished.

Back to the ebay packages... this is the reply i got back from the seller i listed above for anyone interested. Clint. All except the idler arm are Wasp units. Idler is a Roadsafe one as Wasp do not do them in the standard form. Ours are all good units. Nothing cheap and chinese about these. I have sold them for over 30 years .. Cheers Rob Mills Ringwood Auto Parts PO Box 230 Hurstbridge Victoria 3099 Australia Phone 03 9714 8196 0408 104894 Fax 03 8692 6942

A tip if your worried u wont get a neat finish, inject your nice wide bead of sika or silicone into the groove making sure u get it evenly over the join. Dony care too much for a finish as this stage just make sure u get the sealant thats touching the rim in an even fashion. Then grab the missus's ironing spray bottle or something similar, mix up some dishwashing liquid and water into a nice sudsy mixture and fill the bottle up. Then grab ur old pair of thongs or something else with a flat bendable edge (credit card works or proper bog trowel) and spray thr sealant generously and simply wipe the thong over itto flatten it out. Wipe the excess off on a rag and repeat. The soap will stop the sealant from bonding to where the soap is so u cant smear it all over the rim. Once ur done leave to cure.

Clean all the old sealant off 100% and then apply a nice neat continuous bead of sikaflex or similar in the join. Remember more does not equal better.

Cheers guys, i have sent him an email to confirm what parts he is actually selling so should be all good. ill let u know my findings cheers.

Dragging this back up... so im looking at this kit at the moment - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290236172270?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 It doesn't list what brand they are but the boxes in the pick are Wasp units and it doesn't state that the item pictured is not what i would be receiving. So whats the collective opinion?

If you do settle on an aftermarket gate steve then be sure to run a few stitches of weld around the seams as they are simply pressed over and then a bit of seal sealer worked over it. They twist and carry on and you can never get alignment to stay spot on with the skin not bonded to the frame. Only needs a few tacks but obviously the more you do along the long sides will help aid in strength too.

I heard tell of the latest alloytechs in the omegas being log motors too, except on the exhaust side. So u have a single exhaust port at the side of the head and no option for a better flowing unit.

Wasnt it 2.52 or something like that? Yeah would be good with a C4 and a really short 1st.

Loads more info can be found Here including said lifted picture

Sorry mate this project has stalled at the moment, funding ran short and i had to get back into full time work so i havent had much time to play with it unfortunately. what 12v pump did u have in mind cos i have to look into that too sometime to finish off the kitchen in the camp trailer.

The au pump setup is worlds above an early e series as they have a captive swirl pot pickup on them to prevent fuel starvation in cornering or braking as well as preventing an air vortex when low in tank level which i know is an issue with earlier ones that just have a filter sock. I cant say for el but the pump itself would be identical.

I thought that was a no brainer... otherwise its digging into your knee when fully up or fully down.

Pro tip.. to get ur raised white lettering nice and bright use some 240grit paper on a flat block. The white lettering is actually a layer of white rubber under the the black that is machined back off to expose the white layer where its raised. Be sure to clean your tyres well before you do it but as you will mark the fresh rubber trying to scrub the muck off the black afterward.

Ive found a lot of variations with the btr rear and you cant count on anything until u lift that cover and find out whats inside. All housing and back cover plates are marked with an 0578 prefix denoting thats they are 78 series housings but the same cant be assumed of the internals. Ive pulled many apart to find they have been fitted with 0575 gears and the housing themselves are machined to fit the correct pinion bearing position accordingly. Dont presume because u have a 78 series diff that it will accept 0578 gears, ive found it to be the opposite more times that not.

More info on this?? Ive dummied up some BF front calipers and there is no way they will mount up, they are way too wide. I was going to find some AUIIs next to see if they are a better fit... anything to not go commodore LOL

The injector fires at the port wall in a xflow no matter what because of the cockeyed angle they are aimed in at. Thats why the OHC engines had the injectors at 12 oclock aiming directly inline with the port and at the back of the valve. As for EV6 injectors spraying in a V, thats bollocks, the 4 separate jets are shaped into a cone to improve atomisation of fuel, far better than a solid stream that the EV1 xflow injectors do. And as for EV6 injectors not working in a round port.... Ford ran them like that from EL SII thru to AU SIII. 4 fine jets of fuel are far better than 1 large one no matter what shape your port or the angle of injector. AU injectors are a direct swap in for EFI XFs, they are 20.8lbs of the AUs as compared to 21lbs of the XFs and 15 years younger.

Ive got BF turbo injectors in mine, fit no probs, no leaks that i have found. The seal sits in the socket in the same location so it will seat just the same as a stock xflow injector. I can see where you want to grind away but i dont think its an issue... some of mine dont even get in that far.

Thanks for that much mate, yeah i dont understand the draw yet on the fridge, it says min 0.5amps - max 2.5amps. Im guessing that is its draw per hour and not its load on the system. Ive priced optima AGMs and they are pretty well priced at around $280 a piece delivered on ebay for a yellow top unit but only has 55AH storage. Its ideal being a sealed gel type battery that wont leak or need maintenance so i can store it away and pretty much forget about it. But its pretty low on storage as far as deep cycle batteries go.... for instance a Century 120AH marine deep cycle lead acid goes for around $220. Bang for buck says to got his way but i dont know how much maintenance something like that will need in a camp trailer. Its says on the sticker to check levels every 6 weeks and dont let is go too low twice in a row and all this crap. Im not really sure if its worth the hassle to go a lead acid in a camp trailer wihtout removing it and keeping it in service as a dual battery in a regularly operated vehicle. I need to understand more about what my draw will be per day and be able to store it correctly between solar charges. from what ive read a 100AH battery is really only good for 50AH cycles, anything less and you really decrease the service life that have. And that the rating (100AH) is calculated at 100Amps draw over 20hrs time, so thats 5amps per hour total draw from 100% to 0%. So then im supposed to halve that so it wont go below 50% so that a total 2.5amps draw per hour over 20 hrs and thats assuming you get a solid X amount of hours charge back into it per every 20hrs aswell. Im pretty sure ive got the charging side of it covered but my maths says i should safely need about 150AH+ storage to keep everything going per day providing i get the required solar input. if i dont then i believe i will be doing the batteries damage and should have had more in storage so it wont run below 50% and i have to shut it all down till the next hours of strong sunlight. Is that all correct or am i not grasping it right?

How did it earth?

For what u are trying to achieve i would look into tweaking the CLT sensor with a resistor as this is ur best result at affecting mixtures. It will only add like 3-4% across the board at the maximum (minimum temp reading) and if u go too far the ecu will go into LOS mode and then your stuffed. Take a reading with a multimeter at stone cold and fit a resistor inline and bypass the sensor so it reads cold all the time no matter what the CLT is seeing. Then you can bump the rail pressure a tad with a adjustable fuel reg if u are allowed to do that. The HEGO will only trim for light cruise/idle mixtures.. all other times it is disregarded. I would fit a innovate wideband sensor and controller and use the narrowband output wire for your ecu input amd ditch the old ford/bosch one. And then u can see what mixtures u are really getting and what changes do affect it. You will achieve a result but i wouldnt be expecting to much from it.