roKWiz

Sorry its taken a while to respond, work etc gto in the way of things .. I bought the JB Weld.  See the pics of the fix the JB weld smells same as Aryldite .. but im guessing its just a very good quality version of it .. if you are patient and leave the item alone for a few days after clamping its stuck like it was never broken here are some pics  .. 

Got in through the back seat today lads and opened her up easily with a flat head screwdriver as suggested.
 
No body in the boot thank goodness.
 
Found some rust around the upper boot gutters where it joins near the bottom of the rear window and some around the top of the tail lights. Haven't looked down by the 1/4 panels yet as they've tek screwed plywood filler board in place. Expecting lots more rust hidden under that beautiful paint job unfortunately. Looking forward to tackling it in time though!

Ok here goes...

235 60 R16 on 16 X 8 ET-10 steelies.

Lip clearance is good so far, no rubs after approx 100km suburban driving.





Spring clearance is about 3" from a pretty bulgey sidewall



As is chassis rail and body seam (maybe slightly less clearance)



And overall stance



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The XF was getting really hard to get the worn down key to work in the ignition so took the key to one of those generic locksmith blokes who did a lot of head scratching and couldn't be bothered to work out the codes giving up.
 Tried another country guy  (sell guns and ammo, safes etc and do locks), took one look and said yes thats a ???  Turned around cut me a new one, walked out the door, stuck it in the ignition and turned straight away.
Might need to find a decent locksmith who is willing to put the effort in to duplicating the key.

Ok, Im in need of this front spoiler/bar for my Project Goldie. 
Who's got one??
And do we have pics of this spoiler around the sides??
 
I been looking at pics and it looks like you can see the original XF front bar
around the edges or sides of the spoiler??
Hope im wrong. 
Also, does it weigh much more than factory Ford front XF Bar?
I dont need extra brackets and what not do i?

Mainly US and EU spec's I believe, but some may apply to Australian Vehicles?
 
https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php?fbclid=IwAR2oDSFk-zD91i47yM0ygo7nm1xE22BZU9t7l63wBeXTHVlqr0Zoc5Oi3hk
 

thanks to both of you for your advice .. they both look like good options .. ive bought the JB Weld 2 part urethane adhesive...see if that works... ive got a spare glovebox that im going to take cuts out of to make up reinforcing for the broken areas 
 

i'd try JB WELD..
i like it so far, but haven't tried it on many plastics yet

Just a quick bump to THIS thread...
 
For anyone wanting the Crossflow 1-3/4 welsh plugs - Premier Engine Components (Nasons), makes a full (Australian Made) brass welsh plug kit
with x5 1-3/4 plus x2 2-1/16 and x1 tiny 7/16 plug - part no. WPEK971
OR
they also have the 1-3/4 cup welsh plugs by the bag of x10 - part no. BC1034 (brass), PMSC1034 (steel), SSC1034 (stainless steel)
https://premiermachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/premier-welch-plugs.pdf
 
Precision Engine Parts sells brass welsh plugs individually, but not sure on the brand.
Part numbers as follows -
7/16 - CP0010
1-1/2 - CP0250
1-3/4 - CP0320
2-1/16 - CP0450
https://precisionintl.com/v/ford-australia-falcon-xf-4-1-1986-1993-petrol-ute/c/100000-standard/106000-cooling-fuel-oil-systems/106169-core-plugs
 
Merry Christmas.

I had the day off work today, so spent the day on the Escort, and it just got better and better as the day went on  
 
I started the day by getting the 1600 bottom end back together. 
 

 

 
Once that was done, I dropped the flywheel off to be machined ready for the new clutch. 
 
Then spent the afternoon with Rod working on the gearbox. 
We nearly finished making up the jig to weld the shifter in its new location. 
 
We have basically set this jig up so that this conversion can be done with or without the need of the entire gearbox, but rather just the extension housing and shifter rod. 
 

 
Now, for the moment we have all been waiting for (or at least i have ).....
 
IT'S IN COLOUR! 
 

 

 

 

 
I haven't seen the car yet in the flesh. these are just photos that Mark has sent me. 
 
The front still needs to be blacked out behind the grill. 

Nothing much happening with the Escort. 
 
I tried to fire it up and take for a short drive last week, and the shitty misfire was back. last time i diagnosed it as the vacuum advance on the dizzy. so have been running with that disconnected and blanked off. 
 
this time, i spent about 2 hours, checking plugs, dizzy cap, pulling the top of the carby off and making sure there was no shit in the fuel bowl. It was getting low on fuel, so i figured if i could limp it to the servo id put a tank of fresh fuel in it. so i did. it had about 5L left in the tank. put a fresh tank in, left the servo and got a few minutes down the road, and it was good and happy to go. for some reason it seems very sensitive to either stale fuel, or there is something in the bottom of the tank that is contaminating the fuel when it gets too low. 
 
Anyway, on the weekend I went to my girlfriend's place for the weekend, which we are allowed to do under the Melbourne Metro lockdowns, so I took the opportunity to drive the Escort for a decent run rather than just around local streets. 
I know i keep saying it, but boy this old 1300 is getting tired 😕 How long before it goes bye bye? Who knows. 
 
This was the oil pressure at idle after getting home again on Monday. 
 
about 5psi. Interestingly i havent seen the factory warning light come on yet, on the dash, and it does work. Id imagine just must come on at 0psi. 
 
even under load, at 100km/h and at running temp, it doesn't quite get to 30psi oil pressure 😬
 

 
at least it looks pretty after its wash before going back under its car cover    
 

 

Hello experts 😁  I hope everyone is well.
 
Just wondering if anybody can identify or, long shot I know, might happen to know where to source either or the front bars in these photos? 
 
 

All blocks are just about identical apart from the key feature of the 86DA block allowing for the easy installation of an EF falcon full counter weight crank. But since your only spending $5000 don't worry about EF cranks of better blocks just run with what you have especially if it's in good condition. You would need to be spending close on $15,000 on the motor to warrant the EF crank
 
Staying with carby will be much easier, cheaper and will net more horsepower especially with the amount of money you have to spend.
 
Next couple of questions will be
1. Is $5000 just on the motor or everything including gearbox, diff, brakes etc
2. Is the car auto or manual? Do you need to convert the car to your desired choice of gearbox?
3. What diff ratio do you want/have
4.What is the car going to be used for.
 
Don't focus on horsepower cause you wont be able to brag you have heaps, but what you do have is a light car compared to all the newer cars and a very torquey engine that will actually make your car fast.

Try Googleing "Q bond"  used to repair Ford grilles etc, etc.
 
Around the 3:00 minute mark.
 
 

you haven't had a good set..
they are the best headlights i've had once reco'd. 

Now I know why XF headlights are crap, being made by the "Prince of Darkness" himself.

Not knowing your system, Is the 3rd battery the same as the 2nd one ?  Always good to match batteries of the same amps etc (and age). If the 2nd one has been in operation for a while it could bring the newly added one down in charge to that level.
 I would only add another battery into a bank if I could determine that the original aux battery was holding its charge to the capacity of the new one. Sometimes its better to add 2 new ones together in parrallel. You might need to change the cabling size to match the capacity and can the alternator keep up demand.
 
A high amp alternator doesn't alway allow a charge to another battery until it senses a fully float charge, 1st the starting one, then to the 1st aux then the 2nd aux might get some charge. Thats a lot of driving necessary to charge all 3 up.
 
I'm assuming this but do not know how you system has been set up.

Fun fact -
 
XD headlights were made by Bosch
aftermarket lenses made by SAP
 
XE headlights were made by Hella
aftermarket lights AND lenses, made by SAP and TYC
 
XF/XG headlights were made by Lucas
aftermarket lenses made by SAP, TYC and DEPO/Lucid
aftermarket lights made by TYC and DEPO/Lucid
 

Re-ordered for clarity - SPOT BEAM comparison
 

 

 

 
 
 

Ground is Black/Orange.
Pin 1 on Dizzy.
Hall effects ground.
 
Supply is Brown.
Pin 3 on Dizzy.
Hall effects Power
 
Signal is Yellow/Green.
Pin 5 on Dizzy.
PIP signal from dizzy to ecu.
 
Here's a pic of connector set up.....

 
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I use grease.

Jam it full of grease. Get a 3/4 drive extension bar and wrap elecky tape on it till it fits snug in the bearing inner race. Then bash the extension bar in with a hammer and the pressure will force the bearing out.

Okay so I ended up with 30-thou ring end gaps due to pre-gapped rings but what the hell, thats way better than the 120+ I had to start with, and with 11:1, worked heads, camshaft and possible nitrous use thats probably not a bad place to be. 
 
The whole shortblock is together and torqued to spec with new bearings and oil pump, the sump/timing set/water pump go on next and then I'll chuck it back in the truck before I put heads on it.

By the look of the thermostat it probably hasnt run in over a decade until I got it. This thing is crusty.
 
I can't see evidence of it being on gas, I'd say its just been plunked in there, beers were had, things were smoked and then the project got abandoned right around the time Port Arthur was happening.
 
Lots of cleaning ahead for sure. The timing set that came out was actually pretty tight, the picture doesn't do it justice. In all honestly I'm tempted to clean it up and see if it can be reused, or at least kept as a spare.

In the meantime, the block is out of the truck. Hazzah!

Sweet as mate we've ruled that off the list, 
It seems to be a earthing problem as im only gettimg 6 volts of ignition coil.
Have run the battery to the boot so will have to do a bit of checking of what's going on 

they'll most likely just be very tight. i've never sprayed mine(but they've never had rust on them... would definitely spray CRC etc or oil if there's surface rust present)
just have your wheeties in the morning, get GOOD fitting spanners and wear gloves if you need skin on your knuckles