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About Boingk

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    Outback NSW
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Good to hear the timing has helped, the dybo guy probably said 'late 20s' as that's what modern engines like LSs like, so probably what he's used to. We gotta work with what we've got.
  2. Righteo, I got the new water pump on and did the thermostat and housing while I was at it. I find its all the little stuff like this that really sucks time in a build, and can bring you unstuck if you don't get into it to start with. I'm planning on flushing the system a few times to get any debris out of the block as well. I refitted the clutch fan but used a liberal amount of anti-seize so it'll come off again without too much issue. I just couldn't be stuffed wiring in a thermo fan, its been over 40'C here for weeks. I also got an air filter onto the carby, its old and small and basic, but should work just fine to get through rego next week. All that's stopping me now is the throttle cable which needs replacing to connect to the carby. Fingers crossed!
  3. Loving it mate, very cool build and not too wild on the outside which is always a plus in my book. My reaction can be summed up as follows:
  4. Other engines, other cars, there's always a next time. Hell, I have another engine in the shed that needs the fan removed so me and the mad scientist can rip apart the block and replace those pistons rings you fried... uh... I mean, send to the machinists and get gone through properly. The engine in the ute is just for the meantime, the block in the shed will be the one in there for race day at the end of the year. It's getting a proper build, not just bolt-ons and a camshaft.
  5. Thanks for the advice gents. I got it with a 32mm and a pair of cheap spanners tacked together to use as leverage on the hub bolts. Worked a treat, and now I've got a tool for next time. Cheers mate, there's no school like the old school! - boingk
  6. Fair enough. The unit I have has only been used for a few thousand kay so should still be fine for setup on the ute. I'll definitely look at the Spartans if I have any issues. Excellent, that looks like just what I'm after. No progress at the moment, going to get some steel plate so I can fab up a clutch fan removal tool. Cheers - boingk
  7. if you fitted a T5 from the start it'd break the first time you used it in anger. They really aren't designed with performance in mind from the factory, only 300ftlb of torque - thats about 405Nm - so you'd be close to or at capacity with this engine most likely. Throw in some sticky tyres and a hard launch or two and you'd need a replacement box pretty quickly. On timing, get rid of the boost retard and focus on the base timing map. You'll want about 15 degrees from zero to 1000rpm and then ramp to 30 degrees advance in by 2500. Set the dizzy at 35 and work from there. I'm doing a similar thing with mine at the moment and have done many engines in the past that liked this with comparable setups. Obviously it will end up being slightly different depending on what you want and how the engine reponds, but the 15/30/2500 yardstick is a good one for moderate engine combos. - boingk
  8. I've gone with a Crow 14872 solid - 231@50 and 554 lift. Lobe sep is 108 but as I'm looking to go drag racing with nitrous that should suit just fine. Looks like most stuff I'm into is a dying art. I'm a stick welding, carb tuning, tyre fitting machine! I've got a quick-change coming. The stock units are my biggest hate with these things, they are an absolute pain in the rear. I'd love a new Brawler 600 but can't justify the budget. The carb I've got is because it was the right price. $100 from a mate, can't argue with that. He wanted it gone, went with a new one to save hassle. All the better for me!
  9. Wank factor? Nothing wrong with that, I'll do the same thing most likely haha. And yeah go alloy for a Clevo, those old cast iron units are ridiculously heavy. I had a great combo with mine - Elgin E-907-P camshaft (220@50 / 500 lift), 302C heads, Weiand X-Celerator intake w/Holley 600, MSD Street Fire HEI dizzy. Moved the old Effy along well! Yep, vac-secondary. I have used them a lot in the past and found really the only limiting factor is the secondary metering plate, but for most combos it's not too much of an issue. The secondaries open fine, but need to be resprung to suit the engine. Video will come soon but no cam at the moment, I'm focusing on getting her through rego before I play around too much with that. After all that, I've got an Innovate LM-2 wideband to put in as well. Its on a car I've got in storage so will need to go rob it at some point. Great unit, highly recommended! - boingk
  10. More progress. I found the carby was overflowing due to the float binding, and the binding was caused by a misfire at idle... and the misfire was due to bad spark plugs. Done! With that taken care of I chucked the radiator back in and stiched the heater hoses back together - a good trick I found was to rob the stock manifold of the t-piece so you can still connect hoses up, and then use some of the old EGR piping to connect everything back together with excess hose and some clamps. After all that, I found the water pump is worn and leaking, spraying out a fine mist from the pulley due to a slow leak. Bugger. Well, at least everything looks okay.
  11. I see you are also a gentleman of impeccable tastes. It is indeed the black Aeroflow coil haha.
  12. Copy that. I'll get into it when I get around to connecting it up. Just got a laptop to tune the thing when its in the vehicle so that will be very helpful. It'll still have a curve something like 15deg initial to 30deg max advance as this has worked for me on many engines in the past. Yep, planning on it. Can't run properly without vac advance, definitely need it on light load moderate rpm situations like your freeway example. Bingo! I don't understand why so many performance workshops send engines onto the street with essentially locked timing - you want a curve. I reprogrammed by Dad's stroked Clevo with ICE ignition - it was running about 28 deg at idle and 30 at max advance. WTF? Dropped it to 15 idle and 30 max, and it now doesn't overheat, starts better and has more power down low as well. Timing is everything. Excellent info, thanks mate. The more resolution the better. For the fittings, I believe one of the connectors has a small tang stopping interface with the other. Remove this tang with a chisel, knife or dremel and you're good to go. Cheers - boingk
  13. Tried a video but the float sunk. Odd as it was perfect the first time, may be a bad seat. On the upside, I (extremely quickly and poorly) painted the rocker cover and flushed out the PCV so it can be connected. I sorted the power steering pump, too, as it was at an odd angle and needed tweaking to hold a belt. The list for rego is getting shorter, after the carby I've got the radiator to go back in and heater hoses to sort out plus the shifter bush... and we're in business. - boingk
  14. A big metal glove, its what we all want lets be honest. This evening was the last before I head back to a block at work so I wanted to get her running. The obstacles in my way were minor, just the extractors needed fitting up and carby vacuum inlets plugged. I got that sorted with a mate and we were in business. She's not pretty but she runs. The stock ignition got it firing and the carby worked like magic once the fuel pump got up to it. I can't rate the Aussiespeed manifold highly enough, its a very nice even flowing piece and transforms the engine. The way it spins up now reminds me of engines with side-draughts, its very responsive. The exhaust seems like it works well enough, no leaks at the face but there is a small one down the line - probably from the collector somewhere in the copious mass of welding I did. Either way, I'm happy and the ute is one step closer to being on the road. - boingk
  15. No worries. You'll probably find a 3.23 centre will help out without being over the top. You can always fit a taller tyre, too, if you find the new ratio isn't quite right.