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About Boingk

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  • Location
    Outback NSW
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Boingk


    Bingo. Realistically it doesn't matter what the book says - if it runs well at 12.8:1 idle then that's where I'd set it, book be damned.
  2. Boingk


    Reset idle speed and mixture until you get the best smooth idle and vacuum with proper idle speed. This will take a few trips back and forward adjusting each to get the right balance. Check your power valve isnt blown - this can happen and then just flood the thing. As for jet sizes, most carbs in my experience are rich on a big 6. If its running 64's go down to a 62 or so.
  3. Non-update type update. Seeing as I've been driving it I've kept it pretty basic, plus its been to and from work on a nightmare run of shifts so no real time to work on it. On the upside I chucked a seat cover in and got a new air filter, a 9" type from Aeroflow to replace the ancient 6" that's there at the moment. You can see it on the passenger floor haha. I also had some nice cabling turn up to make a proper custom throttle cable out of, and will replace the mechanical fan with an electric when I get the chance. That will most likely be after I fix another fuel leak, this time from the transfer pipe to the rear fuel bowl. Gotta love it! - boingk
  4. Boingk


    Yep, they sound good alright. This was my Effy:
  5. Boingk


    Depends on what sort of power you want. Not legal on the street, but if its bolt-on powerfor the strip you want you won't get much better bang for the buck. Look at Nitrous Express's ML1000 'Mainline' kit, its a billet plate injection system rated for 250hp out of the box, and comes with smaller jets as well. It comes with most things for a basic working setup but you'll want a full-throttle activation switch and arming solenoid, plus a master arming flip-switch in the cabin. - boingk
  6. Boingk


    At those prices I'd be getting an older block hot tanked and machined. Hell, I put 302C heads on my 351C in an F350 and with a mild cam and 4bbl it went like hell! A big part of the reason they got killed was the looming 1976 emissions standard for US and in particular California which is notoriously strict. Part of the design of a Clevo is that it has inefficient low velocity ports and in open-chamber style produces poor power with mediocre emissions... albeit better than the closed chamber heads. Add to this its oddly low 1st piston ring, causing a thin ring of hard-to-ignite vapour mix, and you've got an emissions disaster by any standard. Also, the contemporaneously popular style of emissions regulations were not easily integrated into the Cleveland castings. These tended to be things like exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and air-injection into the exhaust ports to encourage thorough burning of any remaining unignited mixture being expelled. With a short production run slated mainly for performance options and larger luxury cars, the Cleveland was replaced by the Windsor in most applications and quietly killed off. Another aspect to this was management. Apparently the head of development at the time the Cleveland went into production was somewhat of a mover 'n' shaker, and was an influencing factor in getting the project not only off the ground, but into production cars. As with many things, this quickly changed with new management, plus the aforementioned emissions standards and the Arab Emirates fuel crisis in 1972 inspiring a move away from larger capacity engines. Shame, they were pretty much the LS motor of their day, they just couldn't be efficiently adapted to meet regulations. - boingk
  7. Nice, I went over the bridge yesterday taking stuff to the tip. It was 1600kg with me in it and roughly 100kg worth of scrap, so about 1400kg as it is. I'll see how it goes with the bull bar, I really do need one out here so will be reluctant to get rid of it. Back-to-back testing is definitely on the cards. - boingk
  8. The car with the wideband is 1200km away so I won't be running that any time soon. My usual strategy is to simply return the carb to factory settings and go from there, that gets it 95% right 95% of the time with 95% of combos in my experience. Wild stuff or bad carby choice means more creative tuning is required. Anywho, here's a quick shot from the carwash yesterday after rego:
  9. Yep, its got 64's from my current stock but feels like it needs 60's as it is pretty rich. The throttle linkage also needs sorting out as its not getting anywhere near full throttle. On the up side, I got rego today. Woo! No issues, biggest drama was the richness causing issues with hot starting. I also mentioned I had done the 'interior tidy', which was pretty much scraping ingrained dirt off the bare metal floor and putting some basic sound deadening and carpet in. Nothing flash but looks a million times better than how she was before. Tomorrow it's seat cover time.
  10. Well, a man can do more than dream it seems, I got most of the list done! Throttle cable Shifter bushing Coolant flush Engine oil & filter Interior tidy Engine bay tidy Wash it The whole thing is decent, all lights etc work, and I'm taking it for rego tomorrow. The carby was leaking again but fixed it by replacing gaskets in the primary bowl, then swapping out to another bowl with nitrophyl float and new seat. Its still jetted pig rich and as a result needs the idle mixture backed way off, but other than that she's pretty decent. No pics as yet, but here is a video of her running, as promised: Again, nothing special, but she does run okay apart from a minor exhaust leak at the collector (soon to be patched) and needing a slightly larger pump nozzle. Cheers - boingk
  11. I'd assume it has but can't be certain until I check. This thing is a bitza with lots of other random stuff on it, and was built in the last owners back yard. I only bought it off him originally as I was there for parts, the rest is history. Good bloke, real character, and was very honest about the condition of it. I've got some time up sleeve the next few days so will try and get some stuff sorted, in order of necessity: Throttle cable Shifter bushing Coolant flush Engine oil & filter Interior tidy Engine bay tidy Wash it Realistically I'll probably get the first three of those done and the rest will have to wait. As they say...
  12. Thanks mate! Yeah I'd love a pro style full sanitary engine bay but that's probably not on the cards. We'll see. 89 model. Good info, thanks mate. I'll get onto that as soon as I can, will make things a lot easier. Cheers gents!
  13. Boingk


    Good to hear the timing has helped, the dybo guy probably said 'late 20s' as that's what modern engines like LSs like, so probably what he's used to. We gotta work with what we've got.
  14. Righteo, I got the new water pump on and did the thermostat and housing while I was at it. I find its all the little stuff like this that really sucks time in a build, and can bring you unstuck if you don't get into it to start with. I'm planning on flushing the system a few times to get any debris out of the block as well. I refitted the clutch fan but used a liberal amount of anti-seize so it'll come off again without too much issue. I just couldn't be stuffed wiring in a thermo fan, its been over 40'C here for weeks. I also got an air filter onto the carby, its old and small and basic, but should work just fine to get through rego next week. All that's stopping me now is the throttle cable which needs replacing to connect to the carby. Fingers crossed!
  15. Boingk

    Ford XC 523CI BBF Stroker, T56 6 speed manual, EFI Build

    Loving it mate, very cool build and not too wild on the outside which is always a plus in my book. My reaction can be summed up as follows: