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Boingk

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Boingk last won the day on January 3

Boingk had the most liked content!

About Boingk

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Outback NSW
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Righteo, so 4x4 stroke and bore with a range of 67 to 80 thou down the hole, a 78.8cc head and 40 thou gasket... ... youre looking at a best case scnario of 9.17:1 and a worst case scenario of 8.96:1 with 80 down the hole. A closed chamber 302 head at 58cc gives you a range of 11.3:1 to 10.96:1 with the same deck depths. If you have 8cc dish pistons its more like 10:1 with a 58cc head and 80 thou depth. What pistons you have will govern what you want to run, but I'd be going with the 302C heads regardless. 10:1 is going to open up your camshafts a lot better than 9:1, it'll go better and be easier on the juice, too. Weiand intake and E-907-P here we come! - boingk
  2. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway. Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm...
  3. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Generic picture, the actual cam is a hydraulic flat tappet. I used the standard cheap Elgin replacement lifters, too, worked just fine.
  4. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Hey mate good progress. If you're going with the open chambers you want the piston as close to the deck as possible while achieving desired compression, up to about 10:1 or so. Good info on the intake and camshaft, I'd also recommend the Elgin E-907-P I had in my 351, similar to the Crow you mention just a bit more meat. That thing just pulled everywhere and was a hoot to drive, decent economy as well. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELGIN-Performance-Camshaft-E-907-P-for-Ford-351C-351M-400-V8-505-505/263326307722?epid=227443570&hash=item3d4f78958a:g:KP0AAOSwqhlc-nEZ&frcectupt=true - boingk
  5. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Would this help for the sticker mate? https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=DF763
  6. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Most hyd cams will just need a standard cast gear. Check with the manufacturer though.
  7. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial. Surely that will get you sorted.
  8. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Also, if you're looking at pistons... you know the 351C is almost identical, right? The 400 has a 0.9753 pin and the 351C has a 0.912" pin. You could get the rod bushed, or have the piston reamed to the right size. May end up cheaper than a crazy bespoke set - ask your machinist. Like this thing: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPEED-PRO-020-FLAT-TOP-HYPEREUTECTIC-PISTONS-SPH555CP-020-SUIT-FORD-351C-V8/162024943750?epid=868136172&hash=item25b9707086:g:xA0AAOSwbeBdVfhV:sc:AU_StarTrackExpress!2880!AU!-1&frcectupt=true The comp height is 1.645 as well, which would help. Most of the cheaper ones for the 400 seem to have a 1.630 height. - boingk
  9. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    From experience, go the lowest overbore you can. You never know what you'll run into, and if there's a core shift or thin wall, or even a casting defect you'll be better off the less material you remove. If the bore is 7-ish over and the pistons 1 under you'll get 4 thou wall clearance. Sure, its not ideal, but you could easily do a light hone and chuck it back together with new rings and bearings. If you want to keep it I'd see if they do a 20 over piston. If thats an option see what they do in the basic rebuilders specials and go from there. Like you said before, even if they have a dish on them we have the luxury of the magic 302C head to help boost compression.
  10. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yep, do the math. Easiest way is to chuck it together with crank, liberally lubed bearings and a piston, then measure the height to the deck surface when at TDC for that cylinder. Then measure the deck height for that piston. Then compare it to the one you are looking at. Now calculate the rest and you're good. If you don't have a calculator for it I'd highly recommend an app called 'Virtual Dyno', the icon is a black-faced tach with a yellow bar at the bottom. Its about $1 but works nicely. Its modelled off the desktop 'Dyno 2000' with a few tweaks by the creator to get it closer to real-world results. If you don't want to do that just PM me and I'll have a shot for you. - boingk
  11. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Loving the D.
  12. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores. I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well. - boingk
  13. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    "she sucks nitro through a phase four head - 600 horse through the wheels!"
  14. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Huge win mate, looks the goods. You sure can tell thats a tall decker block with those long pushrods though. Keen to see what you do with her!
  15. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Nice mate, very cool! Love the renewed stickers and decas available now. I was only watching a Hagerty rebuild on youtube the otherday and he was putting a repro 'Thriftpower' decal on an old Chev 6cyl motor.
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