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Boingk

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Boingk last won the day on October 14

Boingk had the most liked content!

About Boingk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Outback NSW
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Boingk

    E1 valve stem seals.

    Hi mate, the seals float with the valve stems. These ones will look like little rubber collars with metal band keeping them on the stem, yeah? If they're still present and not cracked then they should be fine. You can also use standard umbrella type seals, they come in a topend gasket kit for about 60 bucks total.
  2. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Wow @gerg looks like you caught that in the nick of time. Good work on figuring out the shims, that'll definitely set you up nicely. For the aircraft, it was a Gardan Minicab built in 1969 and powered by a 1940 model Continental A65-8; an air-cooled 170ci flat four for non aircraftians. It had twin Bendix magnetos and no starter, so I had to hand prop it. Because it was a low winger I stood in front of the prop. Generally started second or third flip, stupidly satisfying!
  3. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Can't argue there mate. Most Pentrite oils I use tend to boast 1200ppm+ ZDDP levels, which seems decent in my book. I particularly like their HPR30, a 20W-60 weight mineral oil. It might sound antiquated but I ran it in my fully instrumented, Continental-engined aircraft and it was a winner. Didn't discolour, didn't break down with heat, didn't lose oil pressure on hot climbs or hot idle, and allowed me to use full throttle judiciously. Nothing else I tried even came close. And this was with an extended oil drain interval, too! Hope the roller conversion goes well! - boingk
  4. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    For the guys wiping lobes, are you running an oil with plenty of zinc? I like diesel oils as they tend to have a stack, and most Penrite blends tend to have upper-limit amounts. - boingk
  5. Boingk

    Ford Xf Fairmont Ghia (Papou) - Rebuild/Help

    Hi mate, I'd recommend a nice mild street cam for most applications, something about 205 to 215 duration @.050" and 450 to 500 lift. I had a similar part in my Cleveland and it was a hoot, very linear and nice to drive. Something like the 14776 or 14892 from Crow Cams. Descriptions tend to go something like "Great midrange performance, suit mild street engine," with and rpm range about 1500 to 4500 or so. If you're after something to work with stock EFI you're going to be limited. The duration, lobe centres and overlap tend to want to stay the same, you can increase lift a bit but will be limited by the other parameters. The 14221 does indeed looks to fit most of the criteria as its on the same 109 deg lobe sep angle and has very similar overall durations (270 vs 260), with only mildly extended duration @.050 (205 vs 197), whilst lift is improved nicely (470+ vs 439). If you're dead set on retaining everything original the EFI will limit you, consider an EFI box... or even going back to a good aftermarket carby. - boingk
  6. Boingk

    XR6 6 speed manual into XF?

    Yeah they're stupid low ratios in 5th and 6th (.76 and .50 I think) but its a new box from a written off car for $500. Can't argue with the price. I already have a 3.55 diff set to go in so shouln't be too bad in the bottom 5 gears. I'll look and see if they mate to a T5 bellhousing. Cheers!
  7. Hey gents, quick question... ...will an XR6 6-speed manual box fit up to an XF with a crossflow 6cyl? I have the option to buy one locally for cheap so figured it may be worth it.
  8. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yep, they sound good alright. This was my Effy:
  9. Boingk

    Nitrous

    Depends on what sort of power you want. Not legal on the street, but if its bolt-on powerfor the strip you want you won't get much better bang for the buck. Look at Nitrous Express's ML1000 'Mainline' kit, its a billet plate injection system rated for 250hp out of the box, and comes with smaller jets as well. It comes with most things for a basic working setup but you'll want a full-throttle activation switch and arming solenoid, plus a master arming flip-switch in the cabin. - boingk
  10. Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    At those prices I'd be getting an older block hot tanked and machined. Hell, I put 302C heads on my 351C in an F350 and with a mild cam and 4bbl it went like hell! A big part of the reason they got killed was the looming 1976 emissions standard for US and in particular California which is notoriously strict. Part of the design of a Clevo is that it has inefficient low velocity ports and in open-chamber style produces poor power with mediocre emissions... albeit better than the closed chamber heads. Add to this its oddly low 1st piston ring, causing a thin ring of hard-to-ignite vapour mix, and you've got an emissions disaster by any standard. Also, the contemporaneously popular style of emissions regulations were not easily integrated into the Cleveland castings. These tended to be things like exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and air-injection into the exhaust ports to encourage thorough burning of any remaining unignited mixture being expelled. With a short production run slated mainly for performance options and larger luxury cars, the Cleveland was replaced by the Windsor in most applications and quietly killed off. Another aspect to this was management. Apparently the head of development at the time the Cleveland went into production was somewhat of a mover 'n' shaker, and was an influencing factor in getting the project not only off the ground, but into production cars. As with many things, this quickly changed with new management, plus the aforementioned emissions standards and the Arab Emirates fuel crisis in 1972 inspiring a move away from larger capacity engines. Shame, they were pretty much the LS motor of their day, they just couldn't be efficiently adapted to meet regulations. - boingk
  11. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, that's reassuring and timely as I was actually looking at something similar to use as a daily with the motor currently in the ute. I'll have a read of your thread for reference. I guess the things going in my favour are that the ute is currently (and will remain) manual, and I'm investing time to set it up properly re valvetrain, diff ratio, etc. Realistically I suppose I can probably run a lot more cam than I am looking at. Rule number 1 with the bullet for this is to keep it reliable and practical as a daily driver. I live in the middle of nowhere and can't afford a breakdown due to something I can't remedy on the roadside with basic tools. I tend to have a 'breakdown bucket' at all times, literally a plastic bucket with spanners, screwdrivers, shifters and vice grips, wire, zipties and duct tape, a spare fuel pump and spark plugs, plus fuel filter, JB weld and extra oil. If I can't fix what happened with that then I guess its put the broken bit in the bucket and hitch a ride time. Cheers all, and Merry Christmas!
  12. Bingo. And there's no use having eleventy billion horsepower if it all comes in at once at 8,000rpm. You want area under the curve as slydog says above. I'd take a nicely set up mild 400-500hp street engine any day over a peaky 800-1000hp unit. If you can put your foot down and get a wall of instant torque shunting you forward you will shit all over the guy with a peaky engine who has to shift, spool up/rev up and finally start launching.
  13. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, confirms what I was thinking all along. I'll be running 3.50's in the rear with M/T ET Streets so should go okay there with everything else similar. I've read up big time on the cylinder head so should be good for a home port job now I know where the gains and danger spots are. More than happy to mate. One of the reasons I like keeping score is so I know what I need to sell the car for if/when that time comes, as well as what to resell a part for. Hmmm, did that intake cost me $50, or was it $250? Mightn't make an earth-shattering difference at the time but it all ads up. Seen mates do that, never understood it. Best money for me is always spent on ignition, intake and valvetrain. Exhaust comes a very close fourth. The air pump analogy is always a good one here. I'm hoping with a goal in mind the plan isn't too hard to nut out right the first time, but we'll see where I am inn a few months I suppose. Anywho, onto the build thread - I picked up a ute the other day. I'll make a dedicated build thread in short order.
  14. Look at the engine you are building and decide on the most cost effective way. There will be positives and negatives each way. For a given engine, example a 250 crossflow, a zero-decked flat top might give you too much compression with even a stock head, but a stock piston will give you only average compression with a stock head. If you want something in the middle a mild dish and machined head may be the way to go. There is some evidence floating around that a mild dish helps centre the force of the combustion and helps with initial squish and also pre-ignition. This passes the common sense test in that you will get some good charge distribution from the narrow sides forcing charge into the centre as the piston rises, and have a friendlier shaped combustion chamber floor with regard to pre-ignition. The shape of a chamber is more important than the volume, but there is a limit where a good shape and unshrouded valves of appropriate sizes can all co-exist. Generally this is a nice semi-hemispherical chamber with rounded, smoothed contours focussing on the valves edges. Short answer? See what is reasonably available for your engine and go from there.
  15. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, duly noted. I'm starting to think a bit more that way but again I'm also not looking to run 10's or even 11's. Mid 12's would be plenty for me - enough to have a play at the track with some V8 gear and not look shamefully slow. Low 12's would be a bonus but I expect the engine won't be the only thing holding me back by that point. Good reading, cheers for the link mate. Nice ride! Nah not much. Cheap ute, an engine to build while I drive it and sort the gremlins, and a whole lot of elbow grease by yours truely. I'm not a mechanic by trade but have tackled most jobs so far by myself. This is why I'm starting a year out - the magic triangle: Lotsa time / Lotsa money / Lotsa effort. Pick two and you may not need the other! Cost list so far: $1000 - ute with reco 250 / 4spd / HD clutch / lotsa rims $250 - donor XF - motor, radiator, spare trans / housing / flywheel etc $240 - set of sunraysias in 15x7 $100 - new tonneau cover $100 - basic service (coolant/filters/oil/plugs) $50 - new tail lights $50 - new hardline for fuel system $100 - new fuel pump $600 - Aussiespeed manifold $600 - NX Mainline nitrous kit including plate, AN4 line, etc ------------ $3090 total so far Budget about a grand for the camshaft, rockers and pushrods, another 200 in machining the head, 700 in M/T ET Street's, 150 for new diff gears and all I've got left is the carby... which I probably already have. Call it about another 1200 and I'm set. So whats that 4290 bucks? Not nothing but certainly far from big bucks, only thing missing is a decent ignition. If you have a place to work, some basic tools and a phone with the 'net you can get any job done. - boingk
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