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About Boingk

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    Outback NSW
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    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Boingk

    XR6 6 speed manual into XF?

    Yeah they're stupid low ratios in 5th and 6th (.76 and .50 I think) but its a new box from a written off car for $500. Can't argue with the price. I already have a 3.55 diff set to go in so shouln't be too bad in the bottom 5 gears. I'll look and see if they mate to a T5 bellhousing. Cheers!
  2. Hey gents, quick question... ...will an XR6 6-speed manual box fit up to an XF with a crossflow 6cyl? I have the option to buy one locally for cheap so figured it may be worth it.
  3. Boingk


    Yep, they sound good alright. This was my Effy:
  4. Boingk


    Depends on what sort of power you want. Not legal on the street, but if its bolt-on powerfor the strip you want you won't get much better bang for the buck. Look at Nitrous Express's ML1000 'Mainline' kit, its a billet plate injection system rated for 250hp out of the box, and comes with smaller jets as well. It comes with most things for a basic working setup but you'll want a full-throttle activation switch and arming solenoid, plus a master arming flip-switch in the cabin. - boingk
  5. Boingk


    At those prices I'd be getting an older block hot tanked and machined. Hell, I put 302C heads on my 351C in an F350 and with a mild cam and 4bbl it went like hell! A big part of the reason they got killed was the looming 1976 emissions standard for US and in particular California which is notoriously strict. Part of the design of a Clevo is that it has inefficient low velocity ports and in open-chamber style produces poor power with mediocre emissions... albeit better than the closed chamber heads. Add to this its oddly low 1st piston ring, causing a thin ring of hard-to-ignite vapour mix, and you've got an emissions disaster by any standard. Also, the contemporaneously popular style of emissions regulations were not easily integrated into the Cleveland castings. These tended to be things like exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and air-injection into the exhaust ports to encourage thorough burning of any remaining unignited mixture being expelled. With a short production run slated mainly for performance options and larger luxury cars, the Cleveland was replaced by the Windsor in most applications and quietly killed off. Another aspect to this was management. Apparently the head of development at the time the Cleveland went into production was somewhat of a mover 'n' shaker, and was an influencing factor in getting the project not only off the ground, but into production cars. As with many things, this quickly changed with new management, plus the aforementioned emissions standards and the Arab Emirates fuel crisis in 1972 inspiring a move away from larger capacity engines. Shame, they were pretty much the LS motor of their day, they just couldn't be efficiently adapted to meet regulations. - boingk
  6. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, that's reassuring and timely as I was actually looking at something similar to use as a daily with the motor currently in the ute. I'll have a read of your thread for reference. I guess the things going in my favour are that the ute is currently (and will remain) manual, and I'm investing time to set it up properly re valvetrain, diff ratio, etc. Realistically I suppose I can probably run a lot more cam than I am looking at. Rule number 1 with the bullet for this is to keep it reliable and practical as a daily driver. I live in the middle of nowhere and can't afford a breakdown due to something I can't remedy on the roadside with basic tools. I tend to have a 'breakdown bucket' at all times, literally a plastic bucket with spanners, screwdrivers, shifters and vice grips, wire, zipties and duct tape, a spare fuel pump and spark plugs, plus fuel filter, JB weld and extra oil. If I can't fix what happened with that then I guess its put the broken bit in the bucket and hitch a ride time. Cheers all, and Merry Christmas!
  7. Bingo. And there's no use having eleventy billion horsepower if it all comes in at once at 8,000rpm. You want area under the curve as slydog says above. I'd take a nicely set up mild 400-500hp street engine any day over a peaky 800-1000hp unit. If you can put your foot down and get a wall of instant torque shunting you forward you will shit all over the guy with a peaky engine who has to shift, spool up/rev up and finally start launching.
  8. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, confirms what I was thinking all along. I'll be running 3.50's in the rear with M/T ET Streets so should go okay there with everything else similar. I've read up big time on the cylinder head so should be good for a home port job now I know where the gains and danger spots are. More than happy to mate. One of the reasons I like keeping score is so I know what I need to sell the car for if/when that time comes, as well as what to resell a part for. Hmmm, did that intake cost me $50, or was it $250? Mightn't make an earth-shattering difference at the time but it all ads up. Seen mates do that, never understood it. Best money for me is always spent on ignition, intake and valvetrain. Exhaust comes a very close fourth. The air pump analogy is always a good one here. I'm hoping with a goal in mind the plan isn't too hard to nut out right the first time, but we'll see where I am inn a few months I suppose. Anywho, onto the build thread - I picked up a ute the other day. I'll make a dedicated build thread in short order.
  9. Look at the engine you are building and decide on the most cost effective way. There will be positives and negatives each way. For a given engine, example a 250 crossflow, a zero-decked flat top might give you too much compression with even a stock head, but a stock piston will give you only average compression with a stock head. If you want something in the middle a mild dish and machined head may be the way to go. There is some evidence floating around that a mild dish helps centre the force of the combustion and helps with initial squish and also pre-ignition. This passes the common sense test in that you will get some good charge distribution from the narrow sides forcing charge into the centre as the piston rises, and have a friendlier shaped combustion chamber floor with regard to pre-ignition. The shape of a chamber is more important than the volume, but there is a limit where a good shape and unshrouded valves of appropriate sizes can all co-exist. Generally this is a nice semi-hemispherical chamber with rounded, smoothed contours focussing on the valves edges. Short answer? See what is reasonably available for your engine and go from there.
  10. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, duly noted. I'm starting to think a bit more that way but again I'm also not looking to run 10's or even 11's. Mid 12's would be plenty for me - enough to have a play at the track with some V8 gear and not look shamefully slow. Low 12's would be a bonus but I expect the engine won't be the only thing holding me back by that point. Good reading, cheers for the link mate. Nice ride! Nah not much. Cheap ute, an engine to build while I drive it and sort the gremlins, and a whole lot of elbow grease by yours truely. I'm not a mechanic by trade but have tackled most jobs so far by myself. This is why I'm starting a year out - the magic triangle: Lotsa time / Lotsa money / Lotsa effort. Pick two and you may not need the other! Cost list so far: $1000 - ute with reco 250 / 4spd / HD clutch / lotsa rims $250 - donor XF - motor, radiator, spare trans / housing / flywheel etc $240 - set of sunraysias in 15x7 $100 - new tonneau cover $100 - basic service (coolant/filters/oil/plugs) $50 - new tail lights $50 - new hardline for fuel system $100 - new fuel pump $600 - Aussiespeed manifold $600 - NX Mainline nitrous kit including plate, AN4 line, etc ------------ $3090 total so far Budget about a grand for the camshaft, rockers and pushrods, another 200 in machining the head, 700 in M/T ET Street's, 150 for new diff gears and all I've got left is the carby... which I probably already have. Call it about another 1200 and I'm set. So whats that 4290 bucks? Not nothing but certainly far from big bucks, only thing missing is a decent ignition. If you have a place to work, some basic tools and a phone with the 'net you can get any job done. - boingk
  11. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Fair call. With adjustable rockers solid lifters become just a quick purchase away... Looking at two choices here from Camtech: CT142-609: i231/e235@.050" / i496/e500 lift / 2200~6200rpm / min 9.5:1 compression CT142-608: i241/e243@.050" / i522/e522 lift / 2500~6500rpm / min 10:1 compression The top choice looks like it'd be great for everyday use which is 95% of what I'll be doing, and the bottom one would be a hoot for a more dedicated machine. They are the smallest in the range but that's fine by me as, like I said, this will mainly be a street-driven, full-rego type car with only occasional strip time. Anyone have experiences with those? And yeah looks like ACL is down and out. Bugger.
  12. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, solid lead there. 1.75" would be nice, the things I have at the moment look very spindly (press bent 1.5"?) and were bought for a mild hop-up with another vehicle. ACL do pistons according to their website: http://www.aclperformance.com.au/EU/6MKRY9412.htm With the dished set at .020 over, a 50cc chamber, .030" deck height and .040" head gasket at 3.7" bore diameter it all comes to about a 10.8:1 compression ratio by my calculations. That should be plenty for what I want to achieve and still use pump fuel. I also stumbled on some bolt-in style roller rockers which look interesting, they use a 5/16 stud that goes into the head which then enlarges to a 7/16 stud for the rockers themselves. Anyone have any experience with this type of setup? I know its not a proper full 7/16 stud but then again I'm not running a top-spec full-tilt camshaft either. - boingk
  13. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, much appreciated. I'll look more toward that direction then, if the valve gear won't hold I won't try and make it. I'm more used to Chrysler V8's and their great shaft-mount system and I keep forgetting how different stud type rockers are in terms of reliability at speed and load. Weight-wise, the ute is going to be pretty standard. I'll probably try and pull a few tricks (single sheet bonnet and tailgate, light tonneau cover for aero) but otherwise will be fairly limited as I want it to be usable as an everyday ride. Decent exhaust isn't an issue, big single 3" dumped out the back. Headers will be a struggle as off-the-shelf items don't have the primary size I'm after, at least not the one's I've seen so far. Ignition I'm leaning towards a 6AL style box or an ICE ignition module. I've had decent experiences with them so will see what I can get within my budget. Narrowing down the options for the final Ute body at the moment, I'll start a thread once I've got it. - boingk
  14. Boingk

    Boingk's 1/4 Mile Crossflow Build

    Thanks mate, well into it but not doing anything near that hectic. Pretty sure he's campaigned an XF ute in Drag Challenge for a few years now, too. I'm running an XF ute as well, nothing fancy at all and pretty rough at the moment. Cutting and patching panels type of rough. Looking to eventually run mid 12's, nothing fancy. Want to stay hydraulic flat-tappet for the camshaft to make thing easy, but what I'm looking at will be into the territory of a baby mechanical flat-tappet by most grinders catalogues. - boingk
  15. Hey all, just the usual here, asking for advice on a build. I'm not new to engines (Hemi 245's, 318's, Ecotecs, numerous bike engines) but am new to crossflows and need some advice. I'm looking to build something to take to the 1/4 and also run on the street. It'll likely have direct-port nitrous at the strip but other than that nothing too crazy. Combination so far is as follows: C2 head decked, ported and lapped 8cc pistons (balanced) to boost compression into the high 9's / low 10's Rods de-flashed and balanced Crank linished and balanced 120lb (closed) valve springs standard rockers/locks/retainers hardened CroMoly .110" thickness pushrods Camshaft somewhere in the neighbourhood of 230'@.050" and .520-.550" lift Ignition is up in the air, as is intake. I've got a ported Torker 2bbl and modded Holley 500cfm 2bbl I could use, but also am eyeing off the Aussiespeed 4bbl units to match with a Holley 600 / Street Avenger 670. This will come down to availability as the Barra craze is in full swing. The topend is also new to me, but essentially the same as my Clevos - the rockers would be lovely to swap out to at least a roller tipped type but will standard cope with the specs above and no more than 6500rpm? Any advice much appreciated, cheers.