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Boingk last won the day on November 17

Boingk had the most liked content!

About Boingk

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    Advanced Member

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    : Outback NSW
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine or electronics, I'm there.

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  1. Boingk


    If you got the 400 at .030 over and chucked a cheap set of valve-relief pistons in it (assuming 8cc dish equivalent) the thing would be about 11.3 to 1 compression if you used 302C closed chamber heads.
  2. Boingk

    can anyone id this diff?

    Should be able to, yeah. If the assembly for the XH diff looks anything like this, with a rectangular pattern on the end, then you should be set. You can check it easily enough by measuring anyway. See the flange on the outside of the axle bearing? It bolts through the drum housing and into the flange on the end of the diff.
  3. Boingk

    can anyone id this diff?

    I've done this in a rush job to get on the road for Drag Challenge. Worked a treat for over 3000km and is still fine. I used the same "solid-disc flat-flange" on my XF ute. It was also a 3.27 LSD unit as it happens. Use a 1 1/16" (IIRC) socket on the pinion bolt of your current diff and this will release the flange. Now install the flange to your new diff and you will be able to retain the stock-type tailshaft with its uni-joint simply held in by straps and bolts. I used my stock tailshaft no problems using this method. The handbrake cable fit just fine (I converted the discs back to drums) and by keeping the drums I didn't have to worry about the brake lines, either. Note that the drums may be rotated 90 degrees to stock fitment so the cable pulls upward and not forward. This actually helped me as my stock cables were very stretched and this arrangement took up enough slack to give me a properly working handbrake. You beauty! This is a good swap as you'll gain a better rear ratio for performance and also 28 spline versus (likely) 25 spline axles. I'd advise fitting a new pinion seal while you're in there as mine ended up leaking a bit after the flange change. Cheers - boingk
  4. Boingk

    can anyone id this diff?

    The rear cover for the housing, as well as the ends where the axles insert.
  5. Boingk

    can anyone id this diff?

    Welcome aboard mate. Have you got photos? For reference most diffs of this era, in anything, are M75/78 diffs from Borg Warner. The main difference will be width and suspension mounting points. If its from anything within about 5 years either way you'll be fine. Alternatively, you can simply remove the centre section from you new diff and replace the welded one with that.
  6. Boingk

    crossflow roller rockers

    I run two cork gaskets on my EFI cast cover and only had to clearance the inside of the throttle cable cutout just a tiny bit, literally a few passes with an angle grinder. All the rest of the rockers were fine. The camshaft I'm running is 550 lift. Yours is 510 lift and 215@50 duration so you should be fine.
  7. Boingk

    E1 valve stem seals.

    Hi mate, the seals float with the valve stems. These ones will look like little rubber collars with metal band keeping them on the stem, yeah? If they're still present and not cracked then they should be fine. You can also use standard umbrella type seals, they come in a topend gasket kit for about 60 bucks total.
  8. Boingk


    Wow @gerg looks like you caught that in the nick of time. Good work on figuring out the shims, that'll definitely set you up nicely. For the aircraft, it was a Gardan Minicab built in 1969 and powered by a 1940 model Continental A65-8; an air-cooled 170ci flat four for non aircraftians. It had twin Bendix magnetos and no starter, so I had to hand prop it. Because it was a low winger I stood in front of the prop. Generally started second or third flip, stupidly satisfying!
  9. Boingk


    Can't argue there mate. Most Pentrite oils I use tend to boast 1200ppm+ ZDDP levels, which seems decent in my book. I particularly like their HPR30, a 20W-60 weight mineral oil. It might sound antiquated but I ran it in my fully instrumented, Continental-engined aircraft and it was a winner. Didn't discolour, didn't break down with heat, didn't lose oil pressure on hot climbs or hot idle, and allowed me to use full throttle judiciously. Nothing else I tried even came close. And this was with an extended oil drain interval, too! Hope the roller conversion goes well! - boingk
  10. Boingk


    For the guys wiping lobes, are you running an oil with plenty of zinc? I like diesel oils as they tend to have a stack, and most Penrite blends tend to have upper-limit amounts. - boingk
  11. Boingk

    Ford Xf Fairmont Ghia (Papou) - Rebuild/Help

    Hi mate, I'd recommend a nice mild street cam for most applications, something about 205 to 215 duration @.050" and 450 to 500 lift. I had a similar part in my Cleveland and it was a hoot, very linear and nice to drive. Something like the 14776 or 14892 from Crow Cams. Descriptions tend to go something like "Great midrange performance, suit mild street engine," with and rpm range about 1500 to 4500 or so. If you're after something to work with stock EFI you're going to be limited. The duration, lobe centres and overlap tend to want to stay the same, you can increase lift a bit but will be limited by the other parameters. The 14221 does indeed looks to fit most of the criteria as its on the same 109 deg lobe sep angle and has very similar overall durations (270 vs 260), with only mildly extended duration @.050 (205 vs 197), whilst lift is improved nicely (470+ vs 439). If you're dead set on retaining everything original the EFI will limit you, consider an EFI box... or even going back to a good aftermarket carby. - boingk
  12. Boingk

    XR6 6 speed manual into XF?

    Yeah they're stupid low ratios in 5th and 6th (.76 and .50 I think) but its a new box from a written off car for $500. Can't argue with the price. I already have a 3.55 diff set to go in so shouln't be too bad in the bottom 5 gears. I'll look and see if they mate to a T5 bellhousing. Cheers!
  13. Hey gents, quick question... ...will an XR6 6-speed manual box fit up to an XF with a crossflow 6cyl? I have the option to buy one locally for cheap so figured it may be worth it.
  14. Boingk


    Yep, they sound good alright. This was my Effy:
  15. Boingk


    Depends on what sort of power you want. Not legal on the street, but if its bolt-on powerfor the strip you want you won't get much better bang for the buck. Look at Nitrous Express's ML1000 'Mainline' kit, its a billet plate injection system rated for 250hp out of the box, and comes with smaller jets as well. It comes with most things for a basic working setup but you'll want a full-throttle activation switch and arming solenoid, plus a master arming flip-switch in the cabin. - boingk