NZXD

I had a similar cam in a 302 clev too, bit tame for a 351, with the 2v cc heads. But the diff gears will make up for it.
 
With the diff gears and the c4, should see 2800rpm at highway speeds.

nah ,lol couldnt be bothered re-typing it
caps was on,lol

I think he's running a carb, and seen the 302 is stock the std lines will be ok. Plus he previously ran a 351, so lines would be up to the task.

What sort of power is this expected to make or estimated 1/4 times?
 
I'm really interested in this thread, keep up the good work.

When a member of wes caliber is banned I understand it will leave shockwaves for a while,it's been long enough.
 
He's started a fight in a turbo thread and he isn't even here lol.
 
Enough though,only gay dudes fight over hair driers.

Sweet, think I'll leave it for now and see how it goes. I don't ever remember seeing any foam tears ago when the screen came out.
 
also the rate spares rear screen seal is top notch, put one in and its perfect.

You are have some bloody good skills there.
 
Talking about business, I'm a joiner by trade and my old boss always went on about "time is money" and how much money is lost with people wanting freebes here and there etc. I now work somewhere else and are on a contracted salary, which is good when the economy slows but as a wealthy businessman once said to me "working for yourself means you can earn as much as you want".
 
I may be wrong but with v8s, the hp "potential" is roughly twice the cfm rate isn't it?

Got some tuck now too...
 

Not mine but i reckon thats pretty choice idle.
 

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb160/H2Micr0/BenJs%20EB%20Ghia%20Wagon/AJR%20Wheels/WagSpeedyCheetahs12_zpsdb52a70c.jpg"
 

Good work on this, I am finding this really interesting and learning at the same time. Cheers.

Hey, my advice would be to get it degreed, you can't always trust the dot to dot method to be right, the cam could end up retarded or advanced etc. Get it degreed as per cam specs and then you know it's right!

Here you go trev, first fire after a new set of plugs

The cam people said at least 3000.

Ride height looks bloody awesome Rob.

OK so after removing the old 28 spline axles from my locked diff the decision had to be made to move on to another axle.The old ones have some chatter marks in em already so thats not a good thing and will only get worse.I'm thinking 31 spline Strange unit's may be the go now.
 
Any way got it down on its feet and it is exactly how I wanted it...
 

 

 
Sit in just enough to give good clearance and not look silly.
 

I think it depends on where you come from, I've always used both words when telling a mate to do a skid or burnout, thats way before and drift stuff was in NZ. I'd say that mustang is doing a power skid.

Great looking cortinas!
 
The Ozzy version of the Mk4 Cortina is much better looking than what NZ received (English version), the grill and front bumper make all the difference.

chrises beacon

turbo corty

Most have seen my XF with a EL XR8 series 2 motor but thought I would show a couple of pics for those that haven't seen it.
 

 

 

 

 

Geez its hard work over your way mate, come to NZ and do what you want to it, as long as safe they will cert it (mod plate) here.

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover.
 
I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case.
 
My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby.
 
The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot.
 
By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference!
 
I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens.
 
In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.

I have the gear out of an AU xr6 btr auto for my single rail as running the 3.45 ratio, the gear is grey and has 22N EA on it.
The btr auto has the spline cut the opposite direction to the c4/6 autos.

I agree!