xm-221

Dayyum, McLovin' those triples

Dayyum, McLovin' those triples

221 is easily identified, it's cast into the crank. Pull the sump and have a gander. 2V head will go great on a 221 or 250.

The x-member will be a problem - remember I have done this conversion.  The 170-200 cu in motors are completely different to 221-250.  The sump is way bigger on the later model engines.  Here is a photo of the engine bay of my squire wagon just to prove I'm no keyboard expert and the second photo is of me and my wife at Summernats.  If you read my display board you will see my name on it, just to prove I actually own the car.   
 

 

 
I didn't modify the x member on mine.  Instead I spent what seemed like one hundred hours modifying the sump for clearance around the x-member.  Having done it that way I would never do it again as modifying the x member is so much simpler and really more effective than having a lump in the sump.  But you choose your way, but trust me you will have issues.
 
Fitting an engine driven fan is not impossible.  I know as mine runs one, but out of the 400 hundred photos I have of the woody, none show the engine driven fan so I will go into the shed today and take a photo of the bay from the side just to prove it is not impossible.  You just need to follow the steps I outlined above, or not, your choice.  I wanted an engine driven fan as I live in Cairns and it gets bloody hot up here. 
 
 
 
 
 

Nah, It's a July 1979 (W is 1979 & S is July). Built in Brisbane.

They do fit, but you have to drill holes on the ends and make a bracket for the centre mount.

As the thread title suggests lads and ladies, I'm after information on what the difference is between 6cyl and V8 gauge clusters.
We all know to look for the sticker on the back that says whether or not it is 6cyl or V8. Sometimes that sticker is long gone unfortunately, so what I'm after is the circuit board differences between the two.
 
I have a 6cyl cluster here that has the following etched into the boards between the Temp & Alt gauges:
 
VDO Australia
34630 - BOARD
23396 - ASSY
 
Is this the same code for all the PCB's or does it change with the V8 cluster? (Fairlane clusters will obviously be different)
 
I seem to remember a drunken discussion about the S Pac clusters (possibly when I was in Wagga Wagga) about the only differences being in some of the resistors being a different value.
 
Any help on this topic would be fantastic as I know some of us would like to be able to identify a V8 cluster from a 6cyl one at a glance.
 
Cheers.
Glenn.

,lol ,i spent many years groveling around on a floor under many an x series coupe ,etc ,pussy ,right in your eyes ,
things change hoists make life a lot easier ,im not 16 anymore ,closer to 50 ,and if anything ,learning from my past ,taught me brains over stupidity ,works everytime ,so you lay on your cold concrete or muddy driveway while i stand up straight and stay warm dry ,
enjoy ,life i do !

This!
I have got an EA 3.9lt and T5 in Heather, ED Diff with XE brackets for the vented brakes and ED tailshaft. A mate here in Geelong does the rear brake hose conversion for $45 plus postage. Modified XE radiator, EL thermostat housing and that's about it. Sway bar is standard XE, XG chassis plates. I don't run power steer or air con so I have one V belt that runs the water pump and Alt. I'll bail Dan up and find out exactly what bits he used for this conversion originally and edit this post later on

This!
I have got an EA 3.9lt and T5 in Heather, ED Diff with XE brackets for the vented brakes and ED tailshaft. A mate here in Geelong does the rear brake hose conversion for $45 plus postage. Modified XE radiator, EL thermostat housing and that's about it. Sway bar is standard XE, XG chassis plates. I don't run power steer or air con so I have one V belt that runs the water pump and Alt. I'll bail Dan up and find out exactly what bits he used for this conversion originally and edit this post later on

This!
I have got an EA 3.9lt and T5 in Heather, ED Diff with XE brackets for the vented brakes and ED tailshaft. A mate here in Geelong does the rear brake hose conversion for $45 plus postage. Modified XE radiator, EL thermostat housing and that's about it. Sway bar is standard XE, XG chassis plates. I don't run power steer or air con so I have one V belt that runs the water pump and Alt. I'll bail Dan up and find out exactly what bits he used for this conversion originally and edit this post later on

The doors are the same for manual or electric.
Front door regs bolt in the same electric or manual.
Rear door electric regs bolt in different to manual regs but the holes are in the door for either.

I see one problem doing it that way Clint, you risk peeling an edge back if the surface under the basecoat isn't prepped well enough. All it takes is the edge of a finger print left behind and it will peel.
I agree with your method in principal, it will work. But I'm old school and will spend the time to mask up first.

The last one I did was stuck in there good, possibly spun and welded itself. If cups are too hard to knock out with a drift or slide hammer, I run a bead of mig weld all round inside the cup, then as the weld cools, the cup shrinks and will literally fall out, every time. Just be careful not to weld the cup to the tube. You'll be in a world of shit if you do.

Mask it up ya slack bastard!

Mask it up ya slack bastard!

Mask it up ya slack bastard!

The XF booster will bolt straight in but the XD/XE master won't bolt on without reworking the shit out of the mounting holes.
So you have some options.
XF booster with reworked XD master.
XF booster with XF master and XF brake lines.
XF booster with XF master and re-worked brake lines.
Small XD booster with no other mods.
I can understand why you want to use an XF booster because they are just so clean and simple looking compared to the XD/XE booster, and It's why I used one on my XdEE when I did the 4.0 conversion 8 years ago, but unless you are prepared for all the extra pissin' around, forget it.

Buy a mig and attempt it yourself, I don't have the time or space to do jobs for anyone else at the moment.

Good luck Wayne, fingers crossed over here fella.

Acrylic Enamel, is that what they're calling industrial enamel these days?

Looks like you've got a surface contamination Wayne. Did you wet rub the panels before you painted them? If you haven't used a clean bucket (washed with warm soapy water) you can pick up very fine contaminants from the bucket/water itself and rub them into the surface you are prepping and no matter how much you wipe them with prepsol/thinners they will always end up looking like this.
 
I'm on my phone so can't really see the bubble effect properly, but from what you've described it sounds like the thinners isn't flashing off quickly enough and it is eating into the paint underneath and causing the effect you describe.
 
The fix for both problems is to wait until the paint is dry and give them another hard block back (remember to clean the bucket thoroughly and use a fresh bit of sandpaper), give them a very light wipe with thinners (fresh clean rag) and then get a can of etch primer and go over where you have rubbed through to the original paint. That will seal up any potential fry up points so when you paint again it shouldn't happen.
Slydog touches on a good point as well, environment, if it's not warm enough when you're painting the thinners/reducer you are using in the paint won't flash off quick enough and will eat itself into the surface and always cause you some kind of problem. If you are painting in anything under 15 degrees you should double, or even triple, your waiting time between coats or at the least hitting each panel with a heat gun or hair dryer to flash off that thinners so it doesn't have time to etch itself into the panel.

Measured with paint or stripped to bare steel?

That's a definite no, there are two nuts on the inside of the guard, and two nuts on the inside of the rad support as well. A couple of long extensions and a socket will do the job. I can't remember from memory what size they are.
MS Paint sucks, but you can just see the pink circles where the nuts should be on the inside.
 

They fit ok, as well as the originals do sometimes. Seeing as you have to paint it anyway, clean up the inside where the outer skin edges are pressed to the inner frame and put a few tack welds around the perimeter. That will stop the flex that they normally have.
At Ford they used to put a few spot welds around the perimeter to hold the skin to the frame to stop it "walking". The reproduction ones don't have those spot welds so you have to do it yourself.