xe1984

I'm pretty sure that the cheapo Auto one Silver engine enamel is a spot on match for the XD XE rocker covers/ aircleaner.

Well the problem was traced to a broken wire in the loom that leads down to the gearbox, starts on the key now But i'll still add a 4 pin relay like Dean said to do.

undo the engine bolts, lift the engine up about 25 - 30mm, put some good quality blocks of wood under the engine mounts, this will keep the engine up in the air, no need to disconnect anything to do with the engine, 25-30mm shouldn't hurt anything
 
Then take off the sway bar and the sump should be easy to get out

Had a girlfriend named holly once, she leaked too.

I have twisted 28 splines axles in my 250 ute before the engine got serious...31 spline is what's in there now and they will out live the car I'd reckon.

Not sure on the pricing, but for me, I'd keep the 31 spline for strength, and change the axles.

Ring VPW for a cut to length 31 spline axle set.They come in 28-30-32 inch lengths and you cut to size.You will need a 28" and a 32".
 
Around $500 a pair... http://vpw.com.au/Category/Index/6752

If i remember rightly, the old BW diff housings had to be heated up, or bent to swap gear sets. Been a while, and I drink a lot.
Easier to swap for the XR6 diff, I reckon.
 
 
Or buy a 9 inch.............

Custom seating hahaha
 

. Take it out n move it back a gear

sure its on avg fuel and not inst fuel?
 
fuck all that shit off and fit police mode, best thing i ever did, gets rid of all those trip meter stuff which just annoys you by telling you your wasting to much fuel being a hoon haha and replaces it with a digital speedo which is actually spot on accurate instead of being 3kmh faster like the needle gauge
 
ba wagon here too, my best daily yet

From what I got told it uses the fuel gauge to do a base calibration for L per km. mine used to flash 99.9l/km when the gauge was stuffed, maybe they fed me fibs, but that is what ford told me when the ute was new. Remember too that your oxygen sensor is only a minor trimming device. The next thing I'd do is unscrew the two 10 mm drain bolts in the bottom of the convertor. If you get any water/coolant coming out you need the convertor rebuilt.

There are 2 settings, one is for average and the other is instant usage.<br />Does your gasgauge work properly? I had a bf work ute that did that and the gauge was replaced and worked fine afterwards

Pretty sure they're not made to be accurate haha

I used paint stripper, scrape and wash with thinners. Messy job !
Dale

fuckn repco and autobahn I have applied to get jobs there and every time I go there it seems I have to teach something when ever I'm looking for something. Such dumb f#cks work there and its the same old case people that know someone get the jobs there! not someone that is actually suited for the job..My mechanic spends half his day f#cking around with wrong orders sent from places like repco..
I went to a super cheap, a autobahn and repco last Sunday looking for a thermostat for a rb25 engine they all say "what kind of car what date and year is it. And all of em just didn't know what rb25 engine is and none of em had one in stock! Its the same getting bits for my Cleveland they don't even know what kind engine it is or what's it out of. I say "do you have a cleveland inlet gasket?" They say "whaaats a ClEvElAnD? Whaaat cAr is it!" F#ck I hate going there. And there attitudes are sh$t which tops it off

Two methods : mechanical and chemical. If you want to remove small areas, a common or garden variety paint scraper or spatula will do the job. That's the "mechanical". You can use a heat gun to soften it some more if necessary. As the stuff is bituminous/oil based, you can remove the residual with oil/grease remover (prepsol) - but it can get a bit messy.
 
My method of choice is to remove the bulk of  the material with a scraper, abrasive blast the remainder, then prepsol the remnants. This provides a paint-worthy surface. If you're not aiming to repaint the surface with anything else except the same stuff, your degree of prep can be scaled back. If you just looking not to set fire to the stuff whilst welding...scraping and cursory clean should be fine.

Would dry ice work for this like peeps use for the sound deadener? Just a thought, could be a lil less messy.
 
Jack.

20/50 was all I used.

replace intake manifold with a performer LOL

There should be 2 numbers and a dash between em on the gear , divide the second number into the first and thats ya gear ratio.
42-15  = 42 divided by 15 = 2.8 ratio
You probably know that, but someone will find that handy.
 
It will be faster than the Polo.... just ram it before ya drag.... hehehe.
 
Best of luck mate.
 
Jack.

I think it is 18. Colour doesn't always match up a lot are just grey.