Gaz

No metal pegs.
Body tape won't work, there's really nothing on the mould for it to stick to. I got mine from Rares/Auto One. The ends of each mould are supposed to use a nut type jobbie, but rares only have the original push in type.

He's got skills.
Gareth KLR250 posted that on poxfalcon about 5 years ago.

No metal pegs.
Body tape won't work, there's really nothing on the mould for it to stick to. I got mine from Rares/Auto One. The ends of each mould are supposed to use a nut type jobbie, but rares only have the original push in type.

If it's bent, it's right.

XG lock assembly is a one off. E-series and XH had a a narrower column. The Tibbe barrels are all interchangeable, but you need to start with an XG assembly.

XG lock assembly is a one off. E-series and XH had a a narrower column. The Tibbe barrels are all interchangeable, but you need to start with an XG assembly.

If it's bent, it's right.

I've always used a small flat screw driver and some gentle persuasion. A smack on the edge to create a dimple and then use that to tap it around. Once you've gone about 1/2 a turn it will be finger tight

I've always used a small flat screw driver and some gentle persuasion. A smack on the edge to create a dimple and then use that to tap it around. Once you've gone about 1/2 a turn it will be finger tight

I've always used a small flat screw driver and some gentle persuasion. A smack on the edge to create a dimple and then use that to tap it around. Once you've gone about 1/2 a turn it will be finger tight

Then its deteriorated or exposed wiring through the door jamb or inside the door. Won't be the switches.

The following is MY OWN OPINION and it should not be taken as such. Also, discussion is encouraged.
 
There is no need to be plumbing mechanical pressure gauges for liquids into the cabin this day and age. Especially when it comes to Oil at up to 90PSI and fuel.
 
Gauges of various accuracy can be used and there is no need to break the bank for an expensive band name gauge for most applications.
You don't need to know that your oil pressure is exactly 80psi. Really you just need to know you have it and that it is in normal range (20-80psi) so a $30 single wire gauge and sender off ebay will usually fit the bill.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-SMOKE-TINTED-LEN-LED-ELECTRICAL-PSI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-52mm-BLACK-POD-/261181021181?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccf9a1bfd&vxp=mtr
(disclaimer - the Dragon gauges are pretty dodgy. They work, but they are not "high quality")
 
Fuel is a bit more critical, Especially for fuel injection. So the more accurate 3 wire transducer and suitable gauge will fit the bill nicely.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Gauge-30-psi-2-1-16-52mm-transducer-boost-analog-input-LED-/261009679317?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc563a3d5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-30-psi-oil-fuel-air-/260785454553?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb8063dd9
 
Unless you have a reason not to, you should always get a gauge that will give maximum resolution for the pressure you are measuring. What that means is, If your measuring 6psi. You would get a gauge with a 0-10psi range. If your measuring oil pressure (20-80psi) then a 0-100PSi gauge is what your after.
 
Some more info on gauges:
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2066-gauges-how-to-gauges-how-to/

You already mentioned earth and you will hear it more than once, but check your earths lol.
Seriously, I've found the biggest problems with these old  bangers is the battery leads and the myriad of earth leads that come off the battery. Especially when people change the battery to a different type of post and have to add a thousand crimp terminals. 
Your symptoms sound like an earthing problem because your poor earth on a particular circuit, is only completing the circuit through a completely different cicuit.

This will be why you couldn't get it to work before you over rid the smartlock.... There was always a short on the cuircut, which either blew it, or stopped it from working.
The interior light and door switches (courtesy light) is an integral part of the smartlock system. When you bypassed the smartlock, you unlocked the motor for starting , but you didn't solve the wiring problem.
+1 for a short.
 
Jack.

XW/XY had a couple of different types but I couldn't imagine they would repo anything but a 54H type but who knows? Don't forget that XA onwards had a wider shock tower spacing so that might have a bearing on the width of the crossmember. I'd just weld a chunk of eighth or quarter plate in there. (See how old I am? 3 mil. or 6 mil. plate then)

I used to be able to piss over an 8 foot wall at primary school. I can't even piss upwards at all now.
But seriously. Exactly the same, but totally different.

I agree Sean, exactly what I suggested back in post #18

I agree Sean, exactly what I suggested back in post #18

I agree Sean, exactly what I suggested back in post #18

That manifolds faces have been machined to suit another engine that has the block and or heads decked, I would put money on it. The manifold faces are a lot thinner than any other manifold I have seen, I know you said it was new but no way that is how they are produced and sold in stock form, I just did a TFC manifold for a cast iron headed engine and it fit no worries.

Do the port faces look like they've been machined? Maybe a customer return after a fuck up.
I don't think removing (or hammering in) the dowels are going to get it anywhere close enough even if you  used a massively thick gasket or spacer on both sides. 

I used to be able to piss over an 8 foot wall at primary school. I can't even piss upwards at all now.
But seriously. Exactly the same, but totally different.

I used to be able to piss over an 8 foot wall at primary school. I can't even piss upwards at all now.
But seriously. Exactly the same, but totally different.

The only plug thats installed in a pov pack that's  used for cruise is the one to the trans loom, which every car has anyway. All the rest of the cruise loom is exclusive. High end might be different. Don't worry about clutch switch, I ran XdEE for years without one, but make sure you run double brake light switches, and source the power supply from a good reliable point preferably close to the battery or even relayed for maximum reliability. If you don't, the cruise will drop out when any extra current is drawn elsewhere.

The only plug thats installed in a pov pack that's  used for cruise is the one to the trans loom, which every car has anyway. All the rest of the cruise loom is exclusive. High end might be different. Don't worry about clutch switch, I ran XdEE for years without one, but make sure you run double brake light switches, and source the power supply from a good reliable point preferably close to the battery or even relayed for maximum reliability. If you don't, the cruise will drop out when any extra current is drawn elsewhere.