steve mcqueen

Well I had a nice witty reply all typed out then Pro comes a long and makes it all irrelevant. Oh well better that you have the correct info from someone that knows stuff than some comment from a halfwit that knows fuckall.

its a dynotech cam cm250 I thort was a 214 214@50 495lift

I have a few in the shed ill take a look tomorrow at the spec sheet and part number

Ok, here's goldie.
 

What you need is a mate.....
Remove number 1 plug....
Get said mate to stick his finger in the hole...... of number 1 
turn engine over by hand.... Very important
when on comression stroke should hear a hiss emitting from said finger
line up timing mark to number 1 on pulley

Ok, here's goldie.
 

Ok, here's goldie.
 

Probably steve mqueen

Dont take that out!
 
You'll never be able to save ya father at the under the sea dance .... or get to see chuck berry live....
The damage you cause to the space/ time continuem may never be able to be repaired.
 
Jack.

Flux capacitor 

Drop spindles would solve this but $$$$. I broke 2 front rh shocks when i ran the old xe low to the ground

Tried another door handle? Nothing funny going on with child lock?
 
Don't do anything rash, just walk away until you're ready to get into it again.

there shouldn't be an unsafe option available for sale..full stop. prices for better than OE quality higher would be fine.

I can confirm "there is no upper ball joints from REPCO in the SILVERLINE  brand in any Repco store in NSW"
Their distribution center doesn't have any and has no plans on ordering them either.
Repco sell TRW or Transteering ball joints and prefer to do so.
We find if and when asked for a ball joint that we refer to the TRW part number and nothing else. 
We do have a few silverline brand tie rod ends in stock for different cars but not bloody many, mostly
Toyota crap.
Any body who buys a Silverline  brand part from anywhere clearly has no money to buy a better product,
and trust me, we see it all the time.
We give the customer a quality brand, tell em the price and they always go, "is there anything cheaper" 
Filters, tie rods and brake shoes, if you ask for a cheap brand then you get what you pay for, if your car wont stop
properly cause you aint got any money to buy better quality brake pads bar Silverline then 'you need to save up till you can'.
 
Dave and Lott, i give you guys credit for letting the members no about this poor quality product, 
if you here of any more, speak up.
At the same time people, put a good well known brand/product on your car, do it once do it right.  

if you tighten the other 4 wheel nuts the lock nut usually ends up a bit looser.. i used Vise grips on one set of round nuts(with the funny shape internal drive)
those ones look like you could find a socket that would "tap on with a big hammer" to undo easy enough.
 
i'd say the new packet may have the teeth in different spots, couldnt see it being that easy... never know.
have you searched in the car for the lock nut key, glove box, ash tray, jack tool area etc? might be able to reuse them again.
(dont attempt to grab them with pointy nose pliers.. they break when twisted... i know this from undoing dash vent knob nuts on an XE)

Socket and a slege hammer. Bang it on and undo it then stick the nut and socket in a vice and smash the nut out and go again

Yeah I've always just smashed on a smaller socket. Don't expect to use it again though haha.

See if you can get a socket - slightly smaller than that pesky nut and belt it on with one of your big hammers.  then you should be able to just ratchet it off.
 
Failing that what ^^^^^^ said.

I had reason to look at the port spacing difference between the two engine recently.  They are not as far out as you would think.  My advice - get the 1st section of the xf efi setup and the complete broadband.  put them together on the bench.  sit down with a Great Northern Lager (or your favourite tipple) and work out a plan to make it happen. 
 
After your second drink you should have a plan well and truly sorted.  There is a heap of advice on how to trigger the bbm by vacuum switches from other cars (barina comes to mind).  The bbm will work way better than the bunch of bananas.

Thanks guys. Hoping to have my XD sold this weekend so I have the last few $$ needed to go pick up the XM Futura Hardtop Ive put a deposit on. Will be a loooooong term project but Im cruising around building ideas for how I want her to turn out.

From memory xm xp have the same floor pan, you might have to massage the tunnel sightly, my xp sedan fitted spot on and get a new crossmember form Castlemaine Rod Shop here is a link http://www.rodshop.com.au/index.php/ford/xk-xl-xm-xp/xm-xp-falcon-gear-box-cross-member-suit-various-transmissions.html

I have a very old Scorpion gun that I get great results from.  It is a direct Star copy.  Star guns are a good budget option for two pack - not sure on acrylic as I don't spray it. 
 
If there is one thing I have found it is that you need to give any new gun a really good clean before use.  also ditch the little filter they all seem to come with as they restrict paint flow leading to poor results.  Use paper filters instead to filter the paint on entry.
 
It really doesn't matter which gun you get if you don't know how to set them up properly to get a good fan.  I just bought one from Supercrap for $45 and I could not get it to spray properly until I turned the outer cap the wrong way around.  clearly someone stamped the 1.4 the wrong way around.  prior to that the fan was just rubbish.
 
Anesta Iwata are the best gun around in my opinion.  Nice and light - great action and they just lay it on like glass.  Not cheap but a really great product.  I'm working my way up to buying one. 
 
Really is comes down to good prep work - getting the fan right and laying it on nice.  If all else fails - jam the shit on there with 4 good coats and wet sand a buff the fek out of it.

In our current economy why not make your own, esp if you have the means and skill.
 
We live in a throw away society, so I'm all for what you are doing, recycling and saving some coin.
 
Excellent work. Let's see more awesome cost effective and recycling mods.

this thread lost all its taste now, it was so good for a while there.

Manual and P/S box pitman arms are different.
 
They can be a real prick to get off as the nut is done up to 300 nm. You need a special pitman arm puller that has the muscle to get them off.

The crank with the flange will go in the 84 block

The other ones look to be either a rope style one or as said a later metric crank

Easy way to tell is try and screw a imperal flywheel bolt in it, if its a no go its a metric crank, if it goes in its the old rope style crank

Selling a crossy in bits? unless its something real good you will find a skip is the best place for it but that's only my views

I see you don't have the main caps on the block? do you have the caps that match that block? no caps the block will need line honing this is another cost most would not do in a basic build always keep the main caps that belong to that block you cant mismatch them 

So your not boosting yours now?