steve mcqueen

THIS IDEA would be good,
 
the EFI XE and XF tanks have a bigger opening for the fuel sender .. cant just screw them on but you could probably make a steel flange ring, oval shape, cut an oval shape into the XD tank and cut and mount an XG or XH E series wagan  pump assembly in with bolts and gasket and keep the current sender as a fuel guage.. .. not even needing plastic welding.(an e series wagon one might also work.. not sure what they look like)
 
E series wagon efi tanks are same fill point and mounting as XD -XFwagon etc probably not worth the hassle to mod.
XF wagon efi fuel pump  was mounted under the rear seat, probaby doable but resembles your current setup mildly(other than fuel lines dont run under the chassis rail(this cant be good for snagging on things surely)
 
you could probably get a small intank efi pump and mount it in the XD tank hose clamped to the XD sender, the honda one i took out once was pretty basic in mounting might be as simple as bending the pipes or extending the fuel pick up to the bottom of the tank if the pressure is same ...(check this)
note the milk bottle cap as reference to diameter of the pump itself
 

 
 
 

you could cut the top of the current XD tank and get the XF EFI pump housing (larger housing) plastic welded and sealed ? would be the easiest and most "legal" option then cutting up the floor and if its done right would be hard to tell it was ever done - never had it done but im assuming it can be done ? 

you sir, are living life on the edge!

I dont want to have a shot at anyone here, it annoys when people are (sometimes) narrow minded, and have a biased opinion about a manufacturer, just because of something they have been told or read. 
 
I rebuilt the front end in my XF wagon roughly 4 years ago, using Nolathane rebuild kit. At the time, the car was a daily driver, and since has done about 100,000km, and the suspension is still nice. its a little hard, but none of it is split. only 1 bush has split and that is a 1 of the 8 sway bar link bushes. 
as for tie rod ends and ball joints, i went through R&E Auto Parts, who sell Road Safe brand. again, not 1 issue with them. even the rubbers are still in good condition, and have no signs of splits, after all this time. Now i know, a few people i have spoken to say Road Safe is shit, and they fall apart etc etc. but i think from my experience, it proves otherwise. I personally would not go to places like Rare Spares for suspension components, but rather stick to what I know have been good, places like Burson's and R&E. 

 

Also, once you find the one you want and can get a part number, check on line price's.
On line price's on items like alternators and starter motors are hands down cheap cheap cheap!!

Also, once you find the one you want and can get a part number, check on line price's.
On line price's on items like alternators and starter motors are hands down cheap cheap cheap!!

Why cant Flash lube just be added to the tank?
Its a product made specially for applications like this.
 
Thus making it a fuel that is compatible with early engines not suitable for unleaded.
 
In this guys instance it wont matter as it sounds like he is getting his engine re built anyway
so the machine shop would recommend hardened valve seats and new valves,,,,
But....
 
For people who have an old classic,  weather that be an early Falcon or a Morris or a side valve V8
cant they just put this valve saver fluid into their tanks and carry on per normal? 

Cheers mate - she is far from pretty but I like her.  Full drag spec so no interior, no headlights the works.  Changed the fuel pump and line and the triples fired into lift like it had never stopped. 

Yep, i did away with the antenna on my XD and replaced it with this bad boy.
Its hooked up to my Kenwood receiver/CD and works a bloody rippa!!
Here's a link  (sounds like the one wagoon is talking about)
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DNA-AXA110-AM-FM-BOAT-MARINE-DIPOLE-STEALTH-ANTENNA-SUIT-RADIO-AUDIO-RUSTPROOF-/171813598620?hash=item2800e3759c:g:m-8AAOSwrklVbnQw

Yep, i did away with the antenna on my XD and replaced it with this bad boy.
Its hooked up to my Kenwood receiver/CD and works a bloody rippa!!
Here's a link  (sounds like the one wagoon is talking about)
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DNA-AXA110-AM-FM-BOAT-MARINE-DIPOLE-STEALTH-ANTENNA-SUIT-RADIO-AUDIO-RUSTPROOF-/171813598620?hash=item2800e3759c:g:m-8AAOSwrklVbnQw

Yep, i did away with the antenna on my XD and replaced it with this bad boy.
Its hooked up to my Kenwood receiver/CD and works a bloody rippa!!
Here's a link  (sounds like the one wagoon is talking about)
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DNA-AXA110-AM-FM-BOAT-MARINE-DIPOLE-STEALTH-ANTENNA-SUIT-RADIO-AUDIO-RUSTPROOF-/171813598620?hash=item2800e3759c:g:m-8AAOSwrklVbnQw

Updates.
This got the film off - with a lot of scraping and time.
 

 

 
Then we were left with a bonnet covered in awfully sticky residue.
 

 
Tried all sorts to get it off, degreaser, eucalyptus oil, metho, nothing was working.
Then has this recommended (avaliable at Bunnings in cleaning section).
 

 
Ta-Da!!
 

I wouldn't be writing off the ultimas yet, I've put them in most of my cars with no problems yet. I went from standard shocks and springs in my ed Fairmont ghia to King springs lows and ultima short strokes and it was hands down the best handling car I've ever driven. They also weren't Chinese when I bought mine, the paperwork with them said they were Canadian from memory?

I liked how the XD came out with that choice stu, from factory it has 2 mounting positions to suit.
BW and C4.

I could not Find an appropriate section for fuel related topics so it's going here.
The following is written specifically for Crossflow EFI but can be adapted for pretty much any petrol fuel system across all cars.
 
The following guide can be used for troubleshooting various problems with fuel supply and also determining maximum supportable HP/KW
 
Lets get started:

 
Go to your car. (Off to a good start )
 
Follow the fuel return line from the pressure regulator on the fuel rail, to where it terminates to the return hard line and disconnect it. Run the return line from the regulator into a 2L bottle. You may need to make an adapter to plug the line into and run the line out of the engine bay. Try not to make the line longer than needed, the line should not have any kinks or restrictions. The line will not be under high pressure so regular fuel line is fine.

Hardwire the fuel pump by either shorting the main current pins on the fuel pump relay connector (preferred method) with something like the jumper the pic above.
Or running some 10A (or greater) power wire directly to the pump from a strong 12-14V source. A fully charged car battery will work.
 
If not already done, lift the carpet in the boot and remove the fuel pump access hatch to gain access to the fuel pump. Put a multimeter nearby so you can measure voltage at the pump.
 
What your trying to do, is simulate the the fuel pump running normally. This is why shorting the relay is better if possible, as this will test it's power supply. In addition, having the battery on a charger during the test will ensure a strong voltage closer to that of when the alternator is running.
Note: If you are doing this test not for the purpose of troubleshooting, but to find maximum supportable hosepower, then running the pump at a stable 12v is best. This will give you lower performance figures for the pump and this is what you want. A fully charged lead acid battery should sit around 12-12.4 v after a short period of use.
 
When this is all done power up the fuel pump, after a slight delay fuel will start running into the bottle. Time how long it takes to fill the bottle. Watch for a steady flow, it should not fluctuate.
While the bottle is filling you will have a few seconds, A stock XF EFI pump takes approx 60-80 seconds. Quickly go to the fuel pump and take a voltage reading and write it down and do the same with the cars battery voltage. If you do not think you have time to take this measurement you can either use a larger container to catch the fuel, or do it after reconnecting the fuel return line at the end of the test.
 
If you are doing this test for troubleshooting and you are having issues that take a few minutes of driving to occur, it could be duty cycle or even tank related.
If the tank is not breathing properly it can cause suction on the pump and reduce performance. Grab a 20 liter jerry can and put the return line in it, Carry out the test, again timing how long it takes to fill.
Obviously for this test you will need at least 30 liters of fuel in the tank. Throughout the test monitor for steady, regular flow. There should be no pulsing and flow should be consistent right till the end. Measuring a large quantity like 20L will give you a more accurate flow rate measurement. Simply divide the seconds by 10, to align the result with the other test.
Continue to monitor the voltage at the pump, compare it with the voltage at the battery. The difference between Pump and Battery voltage is your voltage drop and this indicates any supply issues to the pump. Voltage drop should be low. Under 0.5v is good.
 
As a final test you can, again, measure the time it takes for 2 liters. It is best to do this test without stopping the fuel pump at all, transfer the line from the 20 liter container straight to the 2 liter bottle whilst it is operating. if possible measure the voltage. The voltage and time taken should be equal or very close to the fist time you measured the 2 liter bottle.
If it is not the same, then it could be sign of an issue. Quickly remove the fuel tank filler cap and repeat the test. If the issue is resolved, then you most likely have a breathing issue with the tank.
Another cause may be low battery voltage, Ensure the voltage during the second test is equal or very close to the voltage of the first test and that the voltage drop has not changed dramatically.

You now know a couple of things:
 
You know voltage X. Voltage X is the voltage the pump gets during operation. The lower or higher the voltage, the lesser or greater fuel it can provide. The pumps operating range can be anywhere between 11-14.4V
 
Operating pressure is the pressure in the fuel rail during operation. controlled by the fuel pressure regulator. Typically 43.5psi on a stock system. I'll talk more on pressure later.
 
At operating pressure, at voltage X, it takes 'Y' seconds for your fuel system to fill the 2L bottle.
On a completely stock crossflow EFI system a time less than 75 seconds to flow 2 liters is fine and will safely support up to 220RWHP Naturally Aspirated.
We will use
Y = seconds to fill the bottle.
Z = Liters measured or liters in the container.
 
Z*60/Y=LPM
2*60/75=1.6LPM (or 1600cc/min)
 
Now you know what your pump puts out you can make an estimation of maximum supportable HP. All these calculators assume a few things, a lot has to do with assumptions of brake specific fuel consumption, which is a measure of efficiency. You don't need to know what that is, but just be aware that the calculators will get you in the ballpark but are not perfect. So always go on the safer side
 
Go here:
http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/hp-calculator
We are treating the fuel pump like a single injector, to estimate how much power your LPH or cc/min can make.
Select 1 cylinder.
Select 85% duty cycle.
Enter your pumps cc/min into the "injector full flow value"
Set the remainder to your specific car.
 
In my example i got 220RWHP.
I'll take a moment to explain why I choose 85% for the duty cycle. When using the calculator the way that we are, the duty cycle is the % of fuel you want to use of the pumps total capacity (it's LPM).
So for us, we can play with this figure to give a "safety factor" You don't want your pump on it's limit, because if something as simple as the alternator the pumps operating voltage will quickly drop below 12V and the fuel pump will pump less fuel.
I have done my own comparisons on voltages and the stock pump. A drop in voltage at the pump from 12V to 11.5 took my pump from 66 to 74 seconds to fill the bottle. So 0.5v = a 8 second drop in performance. That works out to a 26HP difference.
If you were running at full noise with the pump at 95% and then the supply voltage dropped 0.5v, you would loose operating pressure, leaning out the fuel mix and risk damage to the engine.
 
SEGWAY

 
The operating pressure of the fuel system is governed by the fuel pressure regulator. It's pressure is referenced to the manifold pressure. The purpose of this device is to maintain a constant differential pressure across the injectors. As manifold pressure changes the tip of the injector experiences changes in resistance to flow.
The injection rail is at 44psi. If the manifold pressure drops 5psi because the throttle is closed, the injector now sees a differential pressure of 49psi, as a result injector flow rate increases and the engine will run rich. The counteract this, the fuel pressure regulator will drop the rail pressure 5psi, preventing any change in differential pressure on the injector.
Increasing rail pressure increases the flow rate of the injectors. But, it reduces the flow rate of the pump. So, while you can get more fuel/power from injectors by increasing fuel rail pressure, You have reduced the ability for the pump to push fuel. This is why you need to find a balance between the fuel pump, the injectors and the fuel pressure.
Altering fuel pressure too far outside manufacturers specs will interfere with the injector spray pattern and may have negative affects on economy and peak power.
Testing fuel pressure is as easy as putting a pressure gauge somewhere in line on the high pressure side. Testing at the tank can be done, but is not ideal, as there will be some pressure lost through the line. It is best to test and set fuel pressure as close to the fuel rail as you can. Power up the system and ensure the fuel pressure meets the requirements of the injector OEM. To test the regulator you can disconnect it's vac line and suck/blow into it's reference port while watching the pressure gauge.
 
Finally if you have followed everything so far, then you'll understand that working out injector sizing at this point, is pretty easy. using the links above and below you can roughly assume the amount of fuel you will need for your target HP, divide this for the amount of injectors you have and you get your required flow rate at 85% duty cycle. We never want to run injectors at 100% duty. Also do not choose injectors that are too big. as this makes it difficult to meter fuel at low values and leads to issues with idle and very low load and RPM, making tuning difficult.
 
All bosch injectors have a part number stamped into the side. If you punch this number into google you should find information for flow rates and rated rail pressure. Also, Bosch EV6 and EV1 long body injectors, are interchangeable, the EV6 been the better performers with greater tolerance to different pressures and better spray patterns.
 
You may also find this calculator handy:
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php
 
Thats it.

In one word.
 
No.

In one word.
 
No.

I had 4 wheels soda blasted bear, they had had many coats of paint on them from previous owner's
and these wheels came up bloody fantastic after doing so.
All i did then was blast the dust out with an air gun and painted them in a 2 pack silver
and to this day, still look the goods.

So this photo is standard height without bags inflated.
And this one with about 15psi in each bag, inflated separately to avoid body roll.

Hopefully next time I put a load in the back it won't look like this

When I took my engine to the machine shop the quote was around 2 grand, half a dozen things needed doing or changing and when it was all done the bill was 3 grand which I had to pay all at once. Don't kid yourself again thinking you can find a really good virgin bore block for $250, a good 351 crack that doesn't need grinding or linishing and everything else is going to run easy. This is what building cars is all about, the heartache and disappointment of when stuff doesn't run smooth, but it just makes it all that much sweeter when your done.
Here is my bill for machining my crossflow which is from early 2014 from engine engineering, this is no mates rates it's what everyone else pays. Keep in mind you have 8 cylinders so most of the prices are going to be more because you have more cylinders. If you stick with the 302 rods your going to need special pistons which cost dollars as well.

Just twist and hope for the best lol
 
 
Cortina for life

I have a  new slightly damaged after market cap here in front of me (had it for years, its has a slight bend in it)
all yours for free, PM me your address 

I have a  new slightly damaged after market cap here in front of me (had it for years, its has a slight bend in it)
all yours for free, PM me your address 

I have a  new slightly damaged after market cap here in front of me (had it for years, its has a slight bend in it)
all yours for free, PM me your address