Outback Jack

Iron boss

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i want a BF 2,been looking around seems can get a nice xr6 sedan for $5k

Well there we go temp sender is bolted on and all done.

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I felt the drill bite when pressure was there but gave it a bit to long on the spin ,had the drill on the slowest speed ,didn't take long.

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Well at least you know it's flushed now

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Nah just didn't plug the rear top with a sender totally forgot but it's sweet now refilled it and all good and primed

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Umm we have oil pressure

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as far as a rebuild goes, crowcams still stock alot of top end parts, but there does not seem to be a wealth of options for the bottom end. ACL do not seem to offer a piston set any more.

Hi Outback Jack. Yes I'll go for the Nason for $50 instead of MACE for $110. They have a washer but that should'nt make much difference. That article you put out on the 3 x different types of head gaskets was Great to read. I know the car parts shops are always willing to palm off a cheaper gasket and bolts that they wanna get Rid of that might not be Suitable. 

Hey Searley, Nason or similar like Permaseal, they are a decent set for not a lot of coins ,unless your going high hp ,no need for studs really.
ARP bolts for sure for flywheels etc or big end bolts.

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Gooday to Everybody and I hope you are all Travelling Pretty Well. Now I'm about to Buy some Head Bolts for a sohc 4.0 and I see on E-Bay the prices can Vary from $40 to $110 before you go to ARP  Hi-Dollar stuff. Are they all the same? The MACE Engineering look better and come with a washer. And maybe they are made in Australia. I did read in a Ford magazine about a Jim Mock sohc rebuild and he said that you can use 2nd hand head bolts as long as they are in good condition!  I don't wanna stuff this up on Experiments.I bought a Enduro Tech head gasket kit that does'nt come with the Bolts Again any Advice or Opinions or Experience is Appreciated and I won't be Offended. Have a Great Nite.

Pre au is 0 offset and au on is +35 on a 114.3 5 stud pcd.
 
So xf wheels will fit  - might have to drop the callipers off as the rotor is larger than the x series.  Id use 15" as a minimum.

Because a Crossy with a carb sounds mint with a nice cam......and you have a mountain of parts.


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Funny, I was just going to update on the carby and suddenly there's a new post!

Thanks for that mate, that's not far off what I have, looks like you went a bit richer in the primaries and much leaner in the secondaries, I went 63/89 but I did open the primary main bleeds a tad (one drill size over stock, probably 37 up from 35), which has the effect of lowering the effective jet number but altering the fuel curve too. Your squirters are likely right for a bigger motor (351 vs 302), I have 25/37 in mine and it feels spot on.

The biggest gain on this carby, economy-wise, has been idle circuit tuning. I have opened up the idle air bleeds a ton (it's at about 70 now) and it has made a massive difference to cruise economy. I haven't touched the IFRs as I prefer to play with the bleeds before drilling the metering blocks, and if it comes to the worst, (ie going too big) I can just drill and tap them for replaceable bleeds.

So... This is the 4th carby I've had, and in the past, the absolute best that any of the others could do was 420 to a 65 litre tank, with the average sitting around 380-400. This last tank, albeit with lots of motorway cruising, just got 460 and only used 60L. So sitting around the 13L/100km mark. I'm pretty stoked, and I'm sure that on a long trip with pure highway running and a careful right foot, I could crack 500 k's. That's 6-cylinder territory!

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Yeah, fair enough. Not knocking the guy's intelligence or knowledge, he is a Guru.....  I just have a short attention sp..  Look, a squirrel. 🐿️

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

I think EF/EL fans on a XG radiator is the way to go? Or just aftermarket fans.  
Xflow radiator will have the hose inlet/outlet on the wrong sides. XG radiators are rare I believe but might bolt straight into XF (I'm pretty sure) and have the hoses in the right spots, and the outlet for the overflow bottle.
 
 
 

There is a few Barra buildups in xd/e ‘s on here ,,
showing radiator to chassis rail notching that’s needed ,, acc pedal mounting , plug n play harness links etc . 
 
I wanted to do a Barra swap into my LTD ,,,
but being a moron with no foresight or foreskin I sold the bastard . Complete numpty . 

Build a decent fuel system for your car/engine conversion.
One does not just stick a SOHC or BARRA into the hole and 
hope for the best. There is more to it than that. 
(do a BARRA conversion) 
Start reading what others have done with fuel systems and 
accelerator pedals. Then dummy up your design before  going to town
on the conversion. Gotta make that Throttle body work.
Research Research Research = Good job. 

Yeah, pretty much sold on the idea of putting a Barra in her. To help fund it, I have a mountain of 250 Crossflow motors and parts I can sell off.
 
You guys are enablers,,,, you know that right? 😋

Nostalgia, some level of originality, engineering/licensing considerations, emissions considerations and the logistics of keeping a non EFI car not EFI (additional wiring, fuel supply etc).
 
You could say "why would anyone think of restoring a ZK Fairlane AT ALL when a nice BF Fairlane can be bought for less than $10,000."
 
No one ever said car enthusiasts were motivated by fuel efficiency or whether their project is economically a good idea. We do what we want...?

OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor.
 
There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L.
From left to right are....
(Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals.
(Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket.
(Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating.

 
The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket.

This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers.
 
This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket....

 
The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket.
This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket.....

This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing.
 
Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets.
This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications.
 
Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer.
Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket.
Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing.
Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra)
Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface.
 
Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry.
The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to.
 
But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces?
 
What happens if the head is machined but not the block?
 
What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots?
 
Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit.
MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections.
 
 
This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface.


These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks.

The block is super smooth but has imperfections.
 
But not to fear.....
 
While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible.
 
I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined.......

And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block.


 
Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish.
They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces.
They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range.
 
Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing.
This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required.
 
Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications.
 
Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces.
 
This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish.....



That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old.
Installed by a 'mechanic'.
 
Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block.....



The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance.
Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route.
 
 I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness.
 
My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last.
I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild......
 
 
Happy Head Gasketing!
 
Outback Jack.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Pic

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the car is now up on stands ready to rip the rear end out. 
 

 
I wont remove the diff this time, just give it a clean. 
i will remove all the handbrake setup to give it a clean and get rid of 47 years of grime. 
 

 
I decided it was too late to do the rear suspension, so instead i fitted the freshly chromed rear bar, with all brand new mounting hardware. 
 

 

 
Now you may have noticed the boot lid is missing. 
unfortunately it is back at Mark’s shop being done all over again. 
There was a small amount of damage to it, after it had been painted, that had happened in the shop. So its been returned to Marks to be stripped down and repaired and painted again.