Crazy2287

I cannot say if they are the best, but, as i said the oil nerds love using motorcraft on their fords. most of the data is in america. What i did find is that the Australian motorcraft is different to the american one, being manufactured by Ryco apparently. I have always used ryco because it was on the shelf. As long as you are obeying good oil change intervals(OCIs), you keep the dirt out of the engine and are using a good and serviceable air filter you shouldn't have problems with the local ones. But there are "Better" filters out there in the same price range. If you can get the american FL-1A motorcraft filter through ford for under $10 then use those as they are apparently a higher quality filter. To my knowledge these all filter to 40um at >97% efficiency. I have not checkd this with Ryco, Ford or motorcraft. These filters will last the 10,000km OCI as intended by the OEM.
 
I personally am most likely going to change to the Donaldson filter with a 22um @ 99% efficiency. They will trap and filter much smaller particles. But at the same time i am also going to be reducing my OCI's to probably about 5,000km. As it make sense if they trap more particles they will of course clog up faster. There is this SYNTEQ Media they talk about in this particular filter That is mean to be able to hold more particles and offer lower micron filtration while maintaining OEM standards for OCI's but i dunno...
 
Slo, If you line the AFL1 up against a Zyco Z9, apparently aside from the color and text on the can they will appear identical. The american ones use a silicone (red) seal that you can see though larger holes in the base. The auzzie ones have a black seal made out of some other material, i forget what it was now, that apparently can become brittle after a few years in service. Not going to be a problem if you have good OCI discipline. There is also the rumor that this was all old stock and now the aussie ones will be coming with the red silicone seal now.
 
Slo, im pretty sure i have a Ryco spare. If you wanna take a pic of the bottom of one of your motorcraft filters with a ruler near the holes in the base, I'll do the same and see if what i hear on the internet is correct.
 
From what i understand the high efficiency (HE) filters behave as i spoke above. Lower micron count so can clog up faster. On this page i just Googled it even recommends lowering your OCI to 5k. It must have a lower flow rating hence the "not recommended for race applications" And, looks like red silicone gasket material.
http://www.rycofilters.com.au/products/platinum-high-efficiency
As i said, have only been looking into this for just over a week now so a lot of what im yammering on about is yet to be confirmed and is all information i have digested from searching, forums can calling manufacturers.
 
Don't take what im saying as gospel, If you have a question or a doubt, Raise it.

Thanks all for advice, some good stuff in there.
I've been around Engineering all my life, and a Fitter for 20 years, so I wasn't going to be Guido with a Makita in the back yard..........
It would be an engineering company, multi spindle drill and steel inserts. Hadn't thought of the blank rotors idea, sometimes you just can't find old wheels or mags, and when ya do, they fit something else, like a Prius.
 
Occasionally you will find old school rims like Hurricanes, Rebels or Hotwires for other cars, but not for the old FalCoon.
I've seen new sets are available on eBay, but I'm not paying over $3,000 for them.

Snip this in here form another thread to get a bit of attention.
 
The oil nerds are pretty set on motorcraft filters as far as ford goes. They are apparently made really well and ya cannot go wrong with them. The motor craft AFL1 and the Ryco Z9 are apparently identical filters, both made by Ryco for Australia now. just have different packaging. You can get the american motorcraft FL-1A filter through Ford for under $10. They usually have to order it in, It is still made by motorcraft and is of a higher quality than the Ryco clone apparently. All these filters are rated to 40um @ 99% (micron)as far as i could decipher without calling the companies.
When you get the micron rating made sure you get the efficiency as well, the micron rating is useless without knowing the efficiency. Flow rate is a good one to get if you can but most places dont have that information available. Fleetguard was the best for this i found.
 
I'm on a filter kick at the moment and over the last week and a bit have been doing lots of reading and cross referencing of filters trying to pick a brand tostick with for my Jackaroo. Now that ive got them im looking at the falcon next.
 
The first link is the standard OEM spec filter equiv to the Ryco Z9. The second link is a synthetically composed medium high efficiency filter to work as an upgrade of the Z9 equivalent. 99% efficiency at 22um
http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/search/partdetail/view/P550008
http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/search/partdetail/view/P169071
 
 
Discuss. =D

i would love to see a proper comparison but i use the close to period correct motorcraft filters or drift filters with the removal nut on the end, my clevo tends to take alot of effort to remove the filter
 
http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=D9AZ6731A
 
the specs thats always missing and i really want to know with these comparisons is what pressure the bypass kicks in, with modified engines and oil pumps in performance motors it can be very important

Snip this in here form another thread to get a bit of attention.
 
The oil nerds are pretty set on motorcraft filters as far as ford goes. They are apparently made really well and ya cannot go wrong with them. The motor craft AFL1 and the Ryco Z9 are apparently identical filters, both made by Ryco for Australia now. just have different packaging. You can get the american motorcraft FL-1A filter through Ford for under $10. They usually have to order it in, It is still made by motorcraft and is of a higher quality than the Ryco clone apparently. All these filters are rated to 40um @ 99% (micron)as far as i could decipher without calling the companies.
When you get the micron rating made sure you get the efficiency as well, the micron rating is useless without knowing the efficiency. Flow rate is a good one to get if you can but most places dont have that information available. Fleetguard was the best for this i found.
 
I'm on a filter kick at the moment and over the last week and a bit have been doing lots of reading and cross referencing of filters trying to pick a brand tostick with for my Jackaroo. Now that ive got them im looking at the falcon next.
 
The first link is the standard OEM spec filter equiv to the Ryco Z9. The second link is a synthetically composed medium high efficiency filter to work as an upgrade of the Z9 equivalent. 99% efficiency at 22um
http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/search/partdetail/view/P550008
http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/search/partdetail/view/P169071
 
 
Discuss. =D

Good choice. There are some really good big dollar oils like Rob mentioned that are the go if your have serious shit going on in your engine.
For an off the shelf oil in our crossflows i recommend HRP30 full mineral as choice 1 or HPR gas 20 full mineral choice 2
If you are running high ethanol mixes then go full sin racing 20. Racing 15 will be okay if your engine is really tight and has good oil pressure.
Do not use ANY additives in any of these oils, You don't need it. I mean it, extra Zinc (zddp) and teflon (ptfe) will do NO good after run in. These oils have sufficient zinc and molly (or boron?) levels and teflon don't do shit to help engines it just gets stuck in your filter.
The only additive i might use is Lucas oil stabilizer but only in old tired engines that actually need it.
 
I can talk for pages on why i choose these oils over other off the shelf oils but i wont.
 
Here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/4197%20E85%20COMPATIBLE%20OILS.pdf
and here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20September%202013%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf

I don't like telling people not to do something. But make sure your careful here. Can you re-drill the PCD on a rim? Yes. Should you? ...... hmmmmmm No? I mean, if you approach it with the right attitude you'll probably get away with it. Things to consider are strength, material type, balance, offset. Will the rim still support the vehicle to rated specifications with that material removed? You get a machine shop with enough nous and they will be able to drill it out spot on.
 
http://oldholden.com/node/17809
 
if they have a 30mm offset you might be able to get some 25mm hubcentric hub adapters Or even go as far as swapping the rotors out. Depends how badly you want these rims really.

I don't like telling people not to do something. But make sure your careful here. Can you re-drill the PCD on a rim? Yes. Should you? ...... hmmmmmm No? I mean, if you approach it with the right attitude you'll probably get away with it. Things to consider are strength, material type, balance, offset. Will the rim still support the vehicle to rated specifications with that material removed? You get a machine shop with enough nous and they will be able to drill it out spot on.
 
http://oldholden.com/node/17809
 
if they have a 30mm offset you might be able to get some 25mm hubcentric hub adapters Or even go as far as swapping the rotors out. Depends how badly you want these rims really.

Good choice. There are some really good big dollar oils like Rob mentioned that are the go if your have serious shit going on in your engine.
For an off the shelf oil in our crossflows i recommend HRP30 full mineral as choice 1 or HPR gas 20 full mineral choice 2
If you are running high ethanol mixes then go full sin racing 20. Racing 15 will be okay if your engine is really tight and has good oil pressure.
Do not use ANY additives in any of these oils, You don't need it. I mean it, extra Zinc (zddp) and teflon (ptfe) will do NO good after run in. These oils have sufficient zinc and molly (or boron?) levels and teflon don't do shit to help engines it just gets stuck in your filter.
The only additive i might use is Lucas oil stabilizer but only in old tired engines that actually need it.
 
I can talk for pages on why i choose these oils over other off the shelf oils but i wont.
 
Here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/4197%20E85%20COMPATIBLE%20OILS.pdf
and here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20September%202013%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf

I don't like telling people not to do something. But make sure your careful here. Can you re-drill the PCD on a rim? Yes. Should you? ...... hmmmmmm No? I mean, if you approach it with the right attitude you'll probably get away with it. Things to consider are strength, material type, balance, offset. Will the rim still support the vehicle to rated specifications with that material removed? You get a machine shop with enough nous and they will be able to drill it out spot on.
 
http://oldholden.com/node/17809
 
if they have a 30mm offset you might be able to get some 25mm hubcentric hub adapters Or even go as far as swapping the rotors out. Depends how badly you want these rims really.

I don't like telling people not to do something. But make sure your careful here. Can you re-drill the PCD on a rim? Yes. Should you? ...... hmmmmmm No? I mean, if you approach it with the right attitude you'll probably get away with it. Things to consider are strength, material type, balance, offset. Will the rim still support the vehicle to rated specifications with that material removed? You get a machine shop with enough nous and they will be able to drill it out spot on.
 
http://oldholden.com/node/17809
 
if they have a 30mm offset you might be able to get some 25mm hubcentric hub adapters Or even go as far as swapping the rotors out. Depends how badly you want these rims really.

It needs to be set up "correctly" not advanced or retarded...Get your lift @ Top Dead Centre off your cam card and set it to that value or the intake center line.It needs to be checked via dial gauge and degree wheel,dot to dot tells you nothing about where the cam is cos it doesn't know how the cam is ground.
 
If going by advance or retard my cam is ground 2 degrees advanced but I set it up 8 degree's retarded to get the correct lift @ TDC and center line,104 from memory??? Could be 106.
 
Just dot to dot is a guessing game and on a cam with decent lift I would check piston to valve clearance aswell.

Typically, you want an amplifier about 10% greater or more, output capacity in RMS than your drivers "speaker" nominal power handling.
The reasons are thus:
 
Amplifiers are rated at 14.4V Your car is never going to be supplying the amp with 14.4 volts. Realistically your amplifier will see voltages closer to 13.5v with the car running and under heavy load or when the car is off (battery only) this can drop to 12.4-10.5 volts or lower. Lower input voltage = lower output power. You amps are rarely going to be performing at their rated RMS.
A 100WRMS per channel amp at 14.4 volts. Will only be putting out 86.1WRMS at 12.4v, the cars electrical system voltage.
 
If a driver is designed to handle 100wrms, than it's motor is designed to work against that suspension, weight and size of the diaphragm and needs that power to properly control the driver cone at peak output. If you half power the speaker you will never get full noise out of it. The sound can turn sloppy and your response drop because the amp cannot supply the power to the motor required to control the diaphragm.
On top of this, if your trying to drive the amp harder than it can handle by inputting too much gain, you will get clipping of the waveform, This causes current spikes in the amp and driver voice coil which can burn out either the speakers voice coil, or the amplifier itself.
 
 
Can you run a 100wrms speaker with a 50wrms supply? Absolutely! yes you can. Just do not turn it up too loud.
Should you? IMO, no. Get an amplifier that's rating matches, or ideally, exceeds the rating of the driver. You will get the best performance out of your driver this way.
 
 
So IMO, take the amp back and get a bigger one, at least 120WRMS a channel.

Much of a muchness, they do rattle around a lot less, but look a bit uglier
You will need an EB-ED handbrake cable to suit sedan if u use them brakes... or like me go pfftt!!! I stop with my feet not me hands!

I recommend you change the cars springs to suit the height/center of gravity (CofG) you want. Then your shocks to suit that. THEN go out and test the car and see if it's under steering or over steering. From here you select sway bars to give the car more or less under/over steer. Springs, shocks and CofG will change your "boatyness" the best.
 
Worth looking into anyway.

Now it's time to put it back in. It will slide back in the same way you pulled it out, reinstall speakers, clips etc. put the back seat back in last, or you might have trouble positioning it.
 
And the finished product


 
I used Sellys kwik grip contact adhesive and loctite industrial super glue.


 
I have used the same technique on door trims as well.
 
If you are using vinyl to do this, I recommend gluing a 2.5mm foam backing to it first, or it will show all the imperfections in your base surface (check that trim will go back on with the extra thickness first if you are doing this)
 
Always check the direction of stretch in the fabric before starting. You need to make sure the grain will stretch the way you want it too.
 
 
 
 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

Most Thermo fan switches have an off and on temp. The original fan, was only needed in traffic or at standstill. When moving you dont need a fan. Hence the invention of the viscous hub for 1980's onwards. Air pushing against the hub, allows the fan to turn at alternative speeds to engine revs. Less horsepower loss.

If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp.
 
If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head.

If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp.
 
If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head.

If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp.
 
If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head.

Get some vice grips and crimp the hose to the ISC shut, it should die right off if your ISC is jambed open.
If it is then just disconnect all the hoses and plug them in the manifold and throttle body and set your idle manually to 850ish in D when warm. It will drop to around 600rpm in R when cold so u need a little up your sleeve for cold mornings but not too high that its fighting your brakes at the lights.

The x-member will be a problem - remember I have done this conversion.  The 170-200 cu in motors are completely different to 221-250.  The sump is way bigger on the later model engines.  Here is a photo of the engine bay of my squire wagon just to prove I'm no keyboard expert and the second photo is of me and my wife at Summernats.  If you read my display board you will see my name on it, just to prove I actually own the car.   
 

 

 
I didn't modify the x member on mine.  Instead I spent what seemed like one hundred hours modifying the sump for clearance around the x-member.  Having done it that way I would never do it again as modifying the x member is so much simpler and really more effective than having a lump in the sump.  But you choose your way, but trust me you will have issues.
 
Fitting an engine driven fan is not impossible.  I know as mine runs one, but out of the 400 hundred photos I have of the woody, none show the engine driven fan so I will go into the shed today and take a photo of the bay from the side just to prove it is not impossible.  You just need to follow the steps I outlined above, or not, your choice.  I wanted an engine driven fan as I live in Cairns and it gets bloody hot up here. 
 
 
 
 
 

Ant's Bro, your busting my balls. Took me ages to dig up them gif's!
 
... i regret notthhiinnnggg.

 
Strike me down and i will become more powerful then you could ever imagine!
 
 
###Banned

Ant's Bro, your busting my balls. Took me ages to dig up them gif's!
 
... i regret notthhiinnnggg.

 
Strike me down and i will become more powerful then you could ever imagine!
 
 
###Banned

Ant's Bro, your busting my balls. Took me ages to dig up them gif's!
 
... i regret notthhiinnnggg.

 
Strike me down and i will become more powerful then you could ever imagine!
 
 
###Banned