macman

Will have to have a look because the Fairmont ghia was an auto and there is a plug down there that doesn’t hook up to the gearbox so that could be what is stopping it from winding?

G'Day, was the Fairmont Ghia an auto ? could be that you need to loop/join the inhibitor switch wires. (not sure on the AU how this works, but this used to be common in x-series swaps to forget to sort the inhibitor switch wires out
 
 have you got the manual loom from the gearbox connected up also ?
cheers
Warren
 

I understand this to be correct also.

I understand this to be correct also.

Xd and xe were the same in 6cyl and v8 the only ones i found were bigger was the fairlanes autos as the booster would cover were the clutch master is so u couldn't do a manual, i maybe wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if i am

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Don't sell yourself short mate, your info was great. Thanks for posting.
It's stuff like this that helps anyone doing up the old Fords. 
Excellent thread. 

I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums,
and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives...
 
Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild -
VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60
VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41
VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40
 
VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33
VH2580 - Main Diaphragm - $39.60
VH2581 -  Seal - $21.12
VH2582 - Seal -
 
The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395
 
 
For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'.
 
Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). 🙂
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road.
Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening.
I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home.
When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster.

Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced.





and here are a few photos of the replacement parts









I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc.
Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success.
So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it.
Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me.







Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult.



Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean.
This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear.




I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts.
Disassembled.



All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble.
Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move.
Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings.
Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal.
This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd!







To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out.



To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling.



here is the assembly without the diaphragms





Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029.
I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry.
Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually.
Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use.

This is a final assembled unit.



Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B.
I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs.
I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up.

If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can.

Wayne

Who knows... Don't think we'll even see a reply which will answer anyway.

Hi guys I own a 76 XC, It has a stock 4.1L straight-6. Ive had it for 2 years and have enjoyed it but feel like i need a bit more noise and power now, can someone give me a point in the right direction on where to look for extractors, websites, brands, tips, really anything. Thank you

Is core shift a problem when it's sleeved anyway? Easy way to see core shift: look at the cam tunnel in relation to the cast boss around it. If it's not centred, good chance that the water jackets shifted by this same amount.

I have never heard of anyone needing to mod the bores but crank clearance to piston skirt would be dependent on what crank/rod and piston combo you use.

Say you used a short skirt piston with a long rod and high gudgeon, that might not hit the crank. But using chev rods on an offset-ground crank might get you into trouble. Ditto for big end clearance.

Personally, I wouldn't go long term with more than 383 on a clevo. The extra 25 cubes aren't worth it in my opinion.

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Hey all,
 
Well, i took the car to another mechanic, and was told the spring in the distributor was broken, and had the wrong sparkplugs, cause there is a big difference between the 170kw vs the 185kw EL XR8. .......they replaced it, and the car has DISCOVERED full power again, and gear changing has returned to normal. Though it still has a miss ( rough idle ) every so often......so, we're going for an exchange ecu, fuel injectors, and fuel regulator in a few weeks, just to freshen things up a bit.. Yes, I'm throwing money at the car,( though it is over 20 years old ) and still is stock  from factory, but a few pieces here and there. Hoping this will work.....because the mechanic and son have the same car as myself, and know the EL XR8 185kw backwards......will let you know the outcome after it's next visit.

It's a ported vacuum switch (PVS), often used to delay certain functions until the engine reaches operating temperature. These can include vacuum advance, cannister purge, EGR, lots of others... Without knowing where the hoses went to/from it, there is no way of knowing unless you have a workshop manual and look in the emission control section.
 
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Been a while since I played with a carby XF, but, reckon it's a thermally activated switch, that does something to the carby, when it's at operating temp............
 
Anyone know for sure......??

Here's some pics for you guys if you don't have Instagram.

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Yep battery was stuffed. Got the train into Albury on Sunday where Autobarn had a sale on Aussie Century stuff so score $50 off, lunch at the station and train-ed (15kg)  it back.
 Fortunately the alternator is fine and charging within spec. Some wiring terminals replaced as well. Replaced the battery to Alt. earth cable as it was a bit tight.
re. the speedo needle, I've learnt something new.
Thanks everyone.
 

Falcon speedometers work by receiving a pulsed AC signal from the variable reluctance transducer in the side of the gearbox.
(generates a small AC voltage signal of varying frequency)
 
Car batteries act as a large capacitor to absorb AC ripple voltage from the vehicles alternator.
 
If the battery is not functioning correctly, it can't absorb/dampen any errant AC (ripple) voltage created by the Alternator at low revolutions.
This AC voltage is induced into the vehicle wiring, causing the Speedo to briefly display a reading.

Failing rectifier diodes inside the alternator can also cause issues,
especially on modern fuel injected vehicles with VR type Crank Angle sensors, etc.
 
I would check there are no partially shorted diodes in the alternator - this would cause an unwanted drain on the battery.

all sorted guys. 
 
tapped the thread out to 3/8th UNC. but also had to drill the elongated hole in the hinge slightly larger to take the larger bolt. 
 
Ive only done the one so far, so yes it looks out of place, however i bought 4 3/8th bolts so i can do all the others if i want to in the future. 

Simple solution, tap a new thread slightly larger than the original and replace with new bolts

Okay finished doing this job. As daunting as I thought it would be, it was actually not bad.
So to make the job easier after looking how Panko did his, I followed the same method by rolling plastic sockets over ball joint but before doing this I pre heated the plastic socket along with hair dryer.
Move dryer up and down and around to even heat along arm. Heat till metal is hot but not uncomfortable to hold in palm. Then proceed to roll socket over joint with side way motion (greased of course). Do each at one of the time .Popped in quite easy without to much trouble just don’t over grease.
Kinda same theory as putting a seal in a alloy cover. Heat the cover to expand and the seal is cold which is contracted small and in it goes.
Though credit should go to deankdx as was his quote on using boiling water gave me the thought on doing it but instead swapped with dryer.


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Got a futon mattress for the back of the van.

 

I am going to put the 1983 pioneer am fm radio casstte into the XE.
I picked this 1984 graphic eq up years ago.
It has rca line outs; so i should be able to run this to an amp to power some 6 x 9 sony 3 ways for the rear parcel shelf?

 
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Ah this little project....
 
i have a pile of bits. but as yet unassembled.
 
ef crank - free
xf block - have ground out the relief on the block to allow rollers
valves springs and head
inlet manifold - done previously.
 
pistons - to be brought 
rod bolts - need to get
cam not yet brought
 
panzerwagens are in the way at the moment.  

Yeah, they're usually a bit sloppy. The originals were obviously better. Maybe fix it with a washer and a self tapper.  The rod that fits in the plastic holder (on the right), can be adjusted, by spinning it. Have a look inside the door, you'll see the thread on the other end of the rod.

it will work, they usually have that much slop in the mech anyway. 
 
but yeah, fix the original and it will probably outlast the car. especially if the hinges aren't worn and the door is adjusted to the striker well

ask @Panko he broke one.. i suggested heating them up in hot water perhaps to soften them slightly? and grease them even?