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Falcon wheels are generally referred to as being pre-au fitment and post-au fitment. pre au is 0- +6, so the mounting face of the wheel is basically in the centre of the rims width. Post-au is +36, so the mounting face is 36mm closer to the outside edge of the rim. All five stud Falcons are 5x114.3 pcd.

i can't afford to do the front end at the moment which is bugging the crap outta me. it obviously drives fine, i just know that it needs doing and i can't afford the $500+ to bring the parts in from the UK the rest of the week is going to be spent on the wagon, now that this is back together.

ok i need to fix the fuel gauge. it was bound to happen eventually, and today was the day...i ran it out of fuel hahaha yeah i watched him do it. he fitted the rubber to the glass, then roped it into the car. once it was in the car, he then went around with the corking gun, and put sealant from the outside, between the rubber and the body, and then went around and did it between the glass and the rubber. so outer edge of rubber, then inner edge. i can get down to PenLink whenever. just not in the escort while the interior is out lol. it cost me $10 for a generous 4m (5m in total)

all done will have to do the front one day though.

i tested the sub again today in the car, played around with some settings in the head unit, and managed to bring it down a bit so it wasnt over the top anymore. so its in for good now, because I've done the speaker cabling run under the carpet up under the passenger front seat for the amp, and the interior is all back together. it doesn't come out unless i remove the interior lol. handy factory fitted wire clips. wiring done, and sub mounted properly. what sub? once I've sorted a speaker grille, ya won't even know its there...until you hear it haha.

Well I had some progress this arvo. I degreed the cam & it was within .5 of a degree straight up at dot to dot. I would up fitting the 40 thou style steel "O" ring style head gaskets, so comp will be a tad higher than expected. The contact point of the roller on the tip of the valve stem is near on dead in the middle.

As Dean said or your heater core is leaking .

has a leak somewhere.. most common places: door seals, plenum rust, windscreen leak.. its not going to have condensation from a dry floor.. it must be wet under the carpet in my opinion

Haha it doesnt drive that hard, but yeah lol. Ive also decided to stick to 4" speakers in the front doors. I went and talked to a trimmer who was going to modify the holes in the door cards for me, and make up a dress ring/mounting ring on the outside of the door cards…i just decided it was too much. So ill stick to 4s. Neat and tidy. Ill still get the cards tidied up by the trimmer to suit the speakers.

Just as well you waited till the window sealant was cured[emoji6]

so this has been fun LOL not. i went and stripped this from a BA Ghia at the wreckers. yep factory BA Ghia sub jerry rigged up the wiring to make sure it was working ok. powered from an EL Ghia amplifier. the shit you do working on cars. yep I was laying head first into the boot of the escort, feet out over the back. not an easy task with such a small boot haha. here it is installed dont mind the odd bolt. frustratingly i only had 3 of those nice bolts. Ive done all this on a budget, anything i can find around home haha. sub cost me $18, amp i already had, bolts are what ever i found in the garage, the foam insulation is cut from a camping mat Ive been testing it in the car, and it pumps, harder than i expected I definitely do not remember my dad's BA with premium sound, going that hard. I dare say that would be because they are turned down, or wound back to be more matched to the rest of the system. My head unit allows sub control from -15db below the rest of the outputs, to +15db above the rest of the outputs. I need to test it again before I'm 100% leaving it in, but i think ill end up having to wind it back to well below the other speakers. its a little overkill in the escort, but sounds really nice.

cheap as.. seeing i need to do the 4 windows i'll definitely be getting that locking strip there.. Yesterford is only 10mins away, so i'll just drive up with the gemini and show them. let me know when you want to catch up.. i'm paying the diesel gems rego, so it will be on the road when you are ready...(if he esky is faster, we can rematch in the petrol wagon.. "before and after" )

looks nice, did you see the process on sealing it? as in, was there anything in the channel the glass sits in, did they run a bead of goop on the steel lip etc before fitting? i'll grab that locking strip for test if you don't mind, are you going to anything like penlink etc any time soon? what did that cost? Rare spares lists the gemini ones at $33 from memory.. (not by the meter) i hadn't looked at the fitting cost(or if i will buy the tool and do it myself)

Well the screen is back in. The locking strip was ok in the end. Its a little narrower than the original, but looks ok. I think it is the same as a Gemini one. I have about a meter left over if you want to test fit it @deankdx

interested to hear how you go with the reseal. wonder if i would find rust..yes, pretty sure i would..

I got a bit more done today. Cleaned the parcel shelf, and vacuumed under the back seats. 42 years of dirt and dust lol cleaned up, treated and brushed on some black paint over the bit of pitting that had appeared in the bottom corner of the windscreen. cleaned, and hit the parcel shelf with armourall. i know armourall isn't the best stuff to use, but it was pretty dry and badly stained with water marks from the leak. just as i thought it was time to knock of for the night, i forgot to clean the glass up from the old sealant the car is now ready to for the glass to be fitted in the morning. the guys are coming first thing tomorrow morning to have the glass re-fitted. new rubber and locking strip ready to go.

just ripped out for now. i have a tiny bit of rust which ill need to clean up and treat, thankfully hasn't gone through the metal, just some minor pitting. and I still need to go get the rubber and locking strip, which i should be able to pick up this afternoon.

I've been playing with front door speaker setup. Im trying to fit 5" speakers in the doors (up from 4") so i cut out a template of the front half of the door card to test fit the speakers in, before i go and make the existing holes in my door cards larger. its tight, but its going to work. and with the speakers set back behind the card, i won't have issues with the window winder hitting it every time it passes like it did with the old speakers. Plenty of room I found this on the inside the door card whats funny about that is, I posted this photo on FB on the RSOCV FB group, and someone else commented with a photo and the comment, "gee that Teson guy gets around". kinda cool to find someone else who's car has been inspected by the same guy at the factory OK so I got the windscreen popped out today. thanks again to Rod for the recommendation. great guys to deal with, and good price.

haha done. they were quick. Paul was ecstatic that he was working on an Escort lol.

No worries mate, they are good fellas and will do the job right for you.

@2redrovers that windscreen fella you gave me details for is the go. he's on his way to my house now to pop the screen out. thanks mate.

I got a laugh out of the responses to that last one[emoji28] I never intended to build it....unless someone asks me to and hands me a blank cheque to go with the request[emoji41] So...how's about this one then...

Do a search, I've plagiarised sly dogs usual post below. I'm probably going to go down this route will be plenty quick to make me shit myself. And then want more power... slippery slope this Plagiarism below From Jase Stoodley... One of the combos I ran through the years was very healthy and only mild and was fun on the street i thought i would put it up here. Block: 80da bored & honed .030 Crank: 250 ground & balanced Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp. Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors! Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these. Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer. Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference. Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2 programmable running 36deg total timing. Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears. the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp The thing is every thing below the head is still the same motor in the car now.

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

This is great thread, good to throw some ideas out there without the Facebook haters.