MNTL.XD

Hey guys, been surfing the net over the last few days, trying to find any info on XD heater vacuum lines with absolutely no luck, i ended up going to a wrecker and pulling apart a couple of dash's to find where the hell they go so i can put it all back together after replacing all the dead 30 year old foam. So i thought i'd draw up a diagram for future reference. Figured i'd put it on here too to save anyone else the hassle of working it out for themselves, cheers. The foam was in pretty bad condition. Cost about $30 from Clarke Rubber for everything needed to fix it all including internal doors. ... and the diagram needed to put it all back together, i wasn't able to put it back the way it was originally because they'd been put in wrong last time so i only had windscreen demist but no other controls were working, hope it's fixed now, and hope the diagram is useful to someone else too.

The carpet itself might be dry, your problem will most likely be wet/damp carpet underfelt from (as dean and valvebouncer said) either leaky plenum or heater core. Usually heater core leak will be passenger side and plenum leak will be drivers side. Pull your carpet back and have a look. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Bugger. Worth a shot. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Yep that's the one, not that is it?

You would obviously have your front to rear fader set correctly, but have you got the square thing on the display set correctly? It can be set to bias the driver, bias front passengers or rear passengers. Is that set so it's going to all passengers? (Asuming you know what the hell i'm on about). [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

I love the sound of solids. Gives me a little stiffy. [emoji117][emoji108] Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Subscribed, i'd be interested to know myself, very similar (pretty much identical) combo to mine. What cam were you running previously and what power did it make? Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

I've got the 'special' ones, they make more power. (Runs for popcorn) hehe Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

That's some bloody good info Chris, needs to be put into its own thread and made sticky imho. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11591-xf-weber-into-nissan-patrol/ Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

With the bellhousing still bolted to the engine, undo and remove the torque convertor nuts, grab one of the studs and move it side to side, if the torque convertor is fully engaged on the pump the convertor studs should move freely in their little flexplate hole. If the studs don't move you will need to remove the box and fit the convertor onto the pump~drive correctly if it hasn't already damaged the pump, you might be lucky.

Hey guys, i just spotted this on Gumtree, the guy has approx 20 pairs of closed & open chamber 2V heads for sale if anyone on here are chasing a pair ($60ea) - (or a lot). This is not my ad, i am merely letting others know they are there. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/romsey/wrecking/ford-40-351-302-cleveland-cylinder-heads-bulk-fit-xw-xy-xa-xb-xc/1109924987

Coming along nice, much better off doing it right first shot, even if it does take a little longer, it will be justified in the finished product. Great work removing the risen section, looks like it was never there. I'm keen to see the cool body work start. Hehe. ************************************* Click on the link below to view my build thread. http://www.ozfalcon....l-xd-the-build/

Fixed.

He'll sell in bulk too, grab them all bear, there's money to be made! lol ************************************* Click on the link below to view my build thread. http://www.ozfalcon....l-xd-the-build/

Incredible work! Smart ass!

No mate, if you have an external cooler they don't need to be hooked up to the radiator at all, although you can run them through both if you want to. If you aren't running the cooler lines through the radiator, you will not need to block off the holes in the rediator where the cooler lines used to go, nothing will leak.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6304-what-uni-joint/#entry159922

Yep, just put a 9" in my XD using the same tailshsft that was in my Borg Warner. You just need the uni to fit which is a mix match uni, to suit Borg Warner tailshaft size to 9" diff. I can give you the part number if you need it. Cheers.

I just put a 9" in my XD, i had to change the uni which was a cross breed bloody thing, 1/2 borgy 1/2 9". I can find the part number for you if needed. I also had to change the diff to chassis rubber brake line. One was at 90° and one was at 45° to the diff. I also had to buy new brake lines, the breather tube on my diff was in a different spot to the barg warner so the lines were different lengths, if your diff came with brake lines you might be ok. Is it a disc brake diff or drum? Does it have mounts for the handbrake cable or are they on your leaf spring mounts? Edit** U bolts were interchangeable.

Ver clean. Mad colour too!

Fark yeah!! I can't wait to see this all come together! Good work mate.

Good work mate, good to see you're still getting heaps done! It will be interesting to see how well the cortina guards fit, if you need to make any alterations like envyxf had to do to his Falcon guards, even if you do i s'pose it's pretty easy to work with. In addition to the fibreglass bonnet i guess there would be a fair bit of a weight reduction, you should do a comparison of you have the metal panels there.

Fk the alternator off completely, let a solar panel parcel shelf trickle charge the battery in the boot. Hehe

I fkng love this thing, the amount of thought and quality of work is inspiring. Keen for more updates.