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STICKY DOOR HANDLE ISSUE (outside rear right in this case) could cause your door not to open or close (see above post for possibly more notes on the issue)
NOT AN ACTUATOR ISSUE, but Could have been a locked up actuator due to the door handle sticking (not sure)     knee pad, look after your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone.   I THINK it's a T30 torx.. 
these screws can be super tight (rusted) i had to drill the heads off some spare doors here to remove the mechs (haven't tried fixing them, but the mech may have parts so i kept them)
  front left and rear right mechs.. I am working on the rear door, but thought i might need to use parts from the actuator.. (the front one had the stuffed mounting bolts, so it was the sacrificed one if needed.. not needed in this case)   not much to see here, but this is the drivers rear one before I cut the zip ties and before the handle lever rod fell out. (take photos, so you know how to put it back together)

  there was nothing wrong, but i forgot to heed the warning in the video a few posts back about the spring flying off when you remove those geared parts and motor..
(took me 2 minutes to reassemble after looking at this picture of how it was meant to be.)

  THE OFFENDING DOOR HANDLE (from the inside, rod lever disconnected, and you can see the lever arm stuck down, it should spring back to the top, the rod shouldn't have tension on it when installed)
  even closer pic 
  arrow pointing to the tight area, I'm going to sand this down and grease it.  as long as the lever arm isn't going to be affected by sanding some clearance, i'll give it at least 1mm of clearance if it's easy to do.. (going to try not remove the handle to work on it, as the mounting bolts can also be a problem to undo on these cars)

that center pivot screw i don't want to mess with, i can't see how it would be too tight? (however, if it was too tight, i'd mess with it )




and a crap video of My observation for your viewing pleasure.   

mine initially wouldn't open.. from either door. now you mention it, i did check the child lock, and it seemed sus also.. but i think it was possibly unrelated to the issue. (found it today, partly fixed)
I think the CAUSE is possibly from pressing the lock button (has to be with the remote or central locking) while the door handle is trying to open .THIS ISSUE is due to the outer door handle rod puller sticking in the open position.. (I'm uploading pics for a detailed post now)  
if it doesn't lock, check back soon on My next post. It could be the outer handle sticking. .
this is the drivers side rear, but it would easily be possible on the rear doors (front door handles are a different actuation )

 

Left Rear? Mine did that yrs ago... still doesn't lock 🤣

Had that happen in the rangie but the door wouldn't open. Actuator had shat itself and basically stuck the child lock halfway between open and closed. I had to dismantle (destroy) the mechanism from inside the closed door after getting the trim off. They're essentially a ford part as well.    

you'd have to look around and see what you can find.  try the facebook groups etc for bargains (a mate bought a full BTR transmission from the wreckers with sender unit in it for $165 or something like that. ) 

$150 for a used transducer seems excessive. Are there no new ones available??    

had an issue with the AU today,  rear door wouldn't unlock, or open..  then later when i was cycling the locks with the lock/unlock button it unlocked and opened, and now won't close (car can't lock either now)

guessing i'll be pulling an actuator apart tomorrow . (i have spares, so should be able to fix it in the same way this guy did)    

The black 8 pulse one (XD XE) is the rare one

The red one is same even on AUs  (XF XG XH EA EB ED EF EL AU will all be same)    just need to change the gear on the end to suit the EB ratio, the corrector shouldn't be needed.  (unless it was in an XD XE, because the red 10 pulse one will read 20% higher with the same gear on it)

should be easy to find locally in wreckers, 
but what often happens to them is one or more wires snaps off at the transducer end, could try soldering it on again if there's enough left on it. 

here's ONE of 3 on ebay, $150.. seems dear, but ebay is convenient and maybe cheaper if you can find one from someone wrecking one of the above cars    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/298141705342?_skw=speedo+transducer+XF&itmmeta=01KW1MTJT1SWPM4PHT849G9WFN&hash=item456aa1647e:g:UXwAAeSwkQVpvHqb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCvVWbQijWydBZSB2KR5PfHa3bSEY4Bho3eG9%2FFPKLJDwOZUqAQIlAb2qHdUKtDWH%2FzMkXR73YKkGS4ig94FRBCqWR2yg5OdIDiVeJzFIkKOtG%2BsdKBrKY2zF7z%2BhDgINECUJqJ6ywHooklZXvu2hZf7d1P6NfC6VO54xj130AnMxAZGe2ybcKDT1e%2BiZ7YP5tGpTpjisVQ44M%2FWWRq7BAxRkAVs23GlQmVd8BMtpkUlc7hU4n9MGXsyteo%2BEbT99I%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6Ct6rTgZw

it wont clip off like modern cars if it's like the base model XD XE XF seats.  you need to unskin the seat trim and then there are two clips that are extremely strong and brittle  that you need to prise up a bit so the headrest can slide out (if you release those clips, it will slide out like a modern car one, but it's release clips are inside the seat back under the foam)

you might be able to just take the head rest cover off.. that's probably the best way for a beginner.  have lots of swear words ready,  and ideally a location of a spare seat. 

Hi,   I have my car at club members house trying to get a few things sorted.  It seem like the transducer on my single rail is dead and from what I have found so far the replacement part is rarer the rocking horse shit.  I forgot to write down the part number but it is a red sheathed transducer.  I'm lead to believing that it is a Bosch F005S00070 10 pulse transducer.  Has anyone found a new replacement item that supersedes the F005S00070??  I had a speedo corrector wired in as the car has a EB diff.  I bought the car that way.

This is the item fitted.


Any help would be much appreciated.