unfamilia

I do that too but it usually says click here if your over 18 to enter.

Yes it must have housing fine axles both warped? Oh well. Swaps done now. Works perfect.

Ok rebuilt rear brakes tonight.
 
I bought this diff 2nd hand from a mate who's mate had it sitting in his scrap bin. Bottle if bourbon.
Anyway as it had no shoes drums springs etc just the rest I built it with mostly new Parts.
 
I never noticed the backing plates are warped!
Ffs. So I'm a dick. I stripped then and tapped them straighter. Will need some ozitio love still for clearance to drums but should all work out.
 
The drums are still deeper than originals but not as bad as I had originally thought.

Dodge as fuck. I like my hands.
Found a mate with a lathe but its only 9inch. His cousin has a mill at work. Trying to see what I can sort out

I'd see if the brake joint could secure the drums to the bed of the flywheel grinder & just take the face down 2mm.

Spacer plate 2mm thick between axle flange and back of drum.
 
Machined, of course, so drum spins true. If you have the countersunk Phillips head screw that retains the drum onto the hub, it may not be long enough. Having said that, hundreds of cars run without them. Wheel nuts will hold it on. .
 
Just remember they are there, if you ever change drums again.....

Sounds like a good excuse for a disc brake conversion.

Stuff parking that thing anywhere near shops.
 
You got a big ride on now your not telling us about

80's Japanese diesel 4wheel drives (nissans/some toyotas) are a few cars I've seen them in, also late model commodores have an electronic vacuum pump that's quiet, but they may be pricey if you were to buy one new

I used one of those cheep arse one man bleeder kits  for bout $20. It worked ok for me.

If you can afford it, buy a one man bleeder kit that runs on an air compressor.
If not, look up gravity method on youtoob (or goggle it.)  There must be a tleast 20 ways to do it, but you need to find the one that suits you. I always have another bod to do the repetitive "pump it, stop, again..." while I do the bleeding. Costs ya beer, though.!
 
The trick is to never let air into the process. I use a long clear plastic hose (1 metre of beverage tube) into an old brake fluid container. Always keep the end in the fluid, and container half full. Get a hose that is a close fit on the nipple. Yes, unfamilia, I said nipple........
Always check the level in the reservoir. If you've changed out a master cyl, it will have a shipload of air in it. Perservere.

So your saying your pinion won't fit your flange sounds to me like you either need a new wife or you need to see a doctor whatever is cheaper

Tested the 2 wire set up today, much neater
only 10cm of wire not 2m of It.
Works a charm only allows signal on "on" position and only if you hold the switch.
Strangely the stock barell worked intermittently at the start position so I could test the wiring with a light probe.

Cheers. A mate said just the off the 2 pins off the back of the ignition switch to the momentary switch. that way no wires through the fire wall and post fuses.

fixed for tasmainia

well if you cant find something i can buy it and send it to you if your really having trouble finding one 

what the tree trunk penis??? You can be the pioneer on that one.

Ok 95 out 98 in and fired up straight away. Rattle noticbly better (less) so retatded timing then timing light globe blew at 6 btdc. I test drove much better so retarded by feel slightly and better again. Retarded a bit more Idle got choppy. So maybe a bit more 98 and will see as only had 5lt jerry can.
 
Better plugs and an elec dizzy may be ok to get out and about. A bit better carb for breathing and would be better again. Not happy gotta use 98 as sort of defeats a camper wagon lol. No 98 out bush
Parts hauler it is I guess.
 
cheers for all the help folks.

Ok 95 out 98 in and fired up straight away. Rattle noticbly better (less) so retatded timing then timing light globe blew at 6 btdc. I test drove much better so retarded by feel slightly and better again. Retarded a bit more Idle got choppy. So maybe a bit more 98 and will see as only had 5lt jerry can.
 
Better plugs and an elec dizzy may be ok to get out and about. A bit better carb for breathing and would be better again. Not happy gotta use 98 as sort of defeats a camper wagon lol. No 98 out bush
Parts hauler it is I guess.
 
cheers for all the help folks.

Ok 95 out 98 in and fired up straight away. Rattle noticbly better (less) so retatded timing then timing light globe blew at 6 btdc. I test drove much better so retarded by feel slightly and better again. Retarded a bit more Idle got choppy. So maybe a bit more 98 and will see as only had 5lt jerry can.
 
Better plugs and an elec dizzy may be ok to get out and about. A bit better carb for breathing and would be better again. Not happy gotta use 98 as sort of defeats a camper wagon lol. No 98 out bush
Parts hauler it is I guess.
 
cheers for all the help folks.

Wheres the clamps on your fuel lines. I had a car that droped a line like that. Lucky was only off the lights and lost all power. Droped off into the pump so at least didnt pressurize all through a hot bay.

I make real 1's now but you can mod the factory units to fit.If you can weld it's a piss easy job to mod the factory unit.Made out of 110mmx110mmx6mm plate below but I would use some cut at 130mmx110mmx6mm if I did it again via a stock member.
 

 

 
The custom units I made look like...
 

 

 
These move the box up higher if made on a flat plane or if you want it the stock height just fit spacers or washer under the bolts or make the mount to suit.I wanted mine up higher to give me more room and straighten the tailshaft angle as my diff sit's higher up in the body thanks to the big wheels used on it ATM.

Too late bro ive been repping that one for 28yrs lol

what the tree trunk penis??? You can be the pioneer on that one.

I do that too but it usually says click here if your over 18 to enter.