unfamilia

I got new drums for my car. For some reason mine foul hard up against the drum backing played, meaning I cant adjust the drums properly for a good pedal. Brake shop confirms this was my issue not master cyl. Anyway new drums appear to be 1-2mm taller than old spec ones. Any one had similar issue before? And which would be best option.

Yes it must have housing fine axles both warped? Oh well. Swaps done now. Works perfect.

Well no I didn't have a win, wasn't the only warped things on the diff. Both axles are bent. Luckily when searching for axles I've found a whole rear end for $50 less then the axles. Just had to Remod it to fit. Its all stripped down now. Axles true and the housing. Need to strip center out of the one in car install in new housing then swap over shoes and slaves etc and reinstall. By next Sunday And just did my back changig kids nappy. Wtf. So there's a big hill and a big pile of nappy filler to push up it.

The old spec drums I did get were off an identical diff as a mate went disks on his

Ok rebuilt rear brakes tonight. I bought this diff 2nd hand from a mate who's mate had it sitting in his scrap bin. Bottle if bourbon. Anyway as it had no shoes drums springs etc just the rest I built it with mostly new Parts. I never noticed the backing plates are warped! Ffs. So I'm a dick. I stripped then and tapped them straighter. Will need some ozitio love still for clearance to drums but should all work out. The drums are still deeper than originals but not as bad as I had originally thought.

Dodge as fuck. I like my hands. Found a mate with a lathe but its only 9inch. His cousin has a mill at work. Trying to see what I can sort out

So would wheel spacers do the trick? Think thinest is 3mm though

True but I don't fancy the bluebird disk set up or r31. Will see.

Stuff parking that thing anywhere near shops. You got a big ride on now your not telling us about

My Datsun brake master cyl has crapped itself (could be the booster but more like mc) It's a PBR 13/16 dual circuit master cyl. Was looking at upping it to a 7/8 or similar but its got silly built in bias split in it where hard line comes out of side and bottom if front resiviour. Do x series or similar have one that should bolt in and not cost earth? Later e series look angled so no good to me.

Maybe not specifically Ford orientated but what do you do with a brake booster when you install a high lift cam. Due to the decrease in the manifold vac pressures I've read you get poor low speed brake assistance. Options I've read or been told are : Gut the booster and block the line just run unassisted. get a 12v vac pump Get a vac canister and t it in line for added capacity. I'd consider the 2nd option possibly or first as I've driven un brake boosted cars a lot of my life. They aren't bad if under 1000kg.

So for an oil feed would I just t into the oil pressure sender? Obvious choice For the return is it just a line with a Bung into the sump? Above or below oil line as it includes air from the pump. I'm thinking booster less may be easier

Those alternator pumps need an oil feed and return. Yuck

I actually prefer no booster cause that's what I'm used to on all my older cars. This is my first with booster

Where do I find them cheap thom? Haven't seen one before.

So what's your set up sly? You just disconnect hose?

Cause you guys actually answer questions unlike other forums thought I'd ask here I've got a new diff to Install. There are 6 different pinion flange combination and finding out what mine was from is nigh impossible to find matching tail Shaft flange. Mine is a round flange with a square bolt hole pattern of 72mm diagonal spacing. tail Shaft I have is 70mm diagonal spacing. This Is diff Shaft is from. Called a couple diff shops and they said just offset drill new holes through the flange 90 degree off from where they are now. They advised as the tailshaft flange has a locating rib to engage the pinion flange it will be centered so no need for balancing. $200 for one shop to do other said diy as it's a 5 min job. Any one done this here to offer advice? diff center is already installed in housing. torqued and shimmed to spec. I don't want to up set that.

The housing is from a gazelle. The diff Is a h190. The pinion flange could be from half a dozen variants of cars

I'm up grading my diff. now the housing is out of a nissan but the center has been swapped for a detroit locker. The pinion is unknown nissan

Just wondering if 10mm clearance from tyre to coil over spring pearch is enough to take into tyre deflection on a 185 55 15 tyre

That's my thoughts and it's at the top of the cycle. Most of the deformation would be where Meets the road under cornering etc. Looking at shorter spring too should lift perch 1 to 2 inches from where is now. That would fix that issue.

Yes

My ignition is playing up on the start end of the Barrel. I bridged the pos terminal and ignition tab on the starter to test it and started first go. I need to order a new ignition barrel from overseas (not for a Ford) so how can I wire up this set up til it arrives (6-8 weeks). I know I could use just a momentary switch and 20 amp wires onto cabin but I would have thought a relay or fuse should be used as one wire will get permanent + from the starter terminal? Basic diagram anyone?