SPACK

My old Ghia had the vacuum tank in the plenum, that was unleaded EFI.

With the engine having to be pulled out so the BAY could be painted, there would be no gas in there..so ill see what happens today..
 

there's a pressure switch, it's up in one of the pipes with the sight glass from memory near the firewall. 
if there is no gas in the system(because the compressor leaks, or condensor leaks, or evaporator leaks, or the shraeder valve like a tyre has leaks or a hose is split or o ring.. etc.. )
if there is no gas, it won't engage.
the compressors are meant to have some oil in them, but the gas is also a lubricant in later gases i think. 

get it checked by an air con mob, most will put a small amount of gas in and check for leaks either with a dye or sniffer or both. if you can see obvious oil stains on the condensor in front of radiator it's likely it has a hole in it (also) 

i thought you must have had the compressor tested to want another, get it checked by an air con mob.
 
just be prepared, a lot will want to change TX valve regardless, same for receiver dryer if it's been disconnected especially(while engine removed etc) some may want every o ring changed, because the new gas eats the old ones(some mobs will just gas it and say, see how it goes... one of mine with old o rings lasted years and i sold the car still with working air con.. )
 

I’ve been told that if there is no gas in the system then it won’t let the clutch engage to drive the compressor. Doesn’t the gas have oil in it to help lubricate the compressor therefore if it ran without gas it could do damage to it. Someone may have to confirm this but I’m 80% sure that it’s correct.

you used to be able to buy rebuild kits for them, they seem to be the most common compressor to be stuffed. (out of 10 XFs i had, only one had working air con compressor and that's likely because the guy i bought it off would have paid $700 if need be to fix it)
 
there's a universal sandon one that would fit in the spot(would need hoses re made) and be much better.. depends how original you want it.. 
 
finding one used, XF falcon, fairmont etc, Fairlane ZL, and FE LTD are all the same, but fair chance they'll need rebuilding also
 
i've never rebuilt one, i did fit an XE one to one of My XFs once with one of the hoses being remade(the rubber part changed where they crack anyway near the exhaust) and cant remember if the other hose was possible to use a combination of XE and XF pipes or if i had that one made also. ($150 in hoses, $100 regas etc)

This is true too

These are what i used with mine.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-2
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-15380-1

Okay flow rockers are basically clevo type but in two stud sizes.
 
5/16 pedestal mount - no machining
7/16 stud mount - needs machining
 
The 5/16 this run the risk of pulling out at high rpm - but this is dependent on your cam size and valve spring pressure.  This is something ando gets very passionate about.  I’m surprised the mention of double springs hasn’t woken him up.
 
the 7/16ths are more common and easy to get but need the pedestal machines to take the stud mount.  They tend to be more stable but n high rpm scenarios, and then if you’re really serious in running a big cam you need pushrods and guide plates.  But this is a serious engine something that sacrifices some crossy strengths ( low down torque) and drive ability for those moments when you can hold a throttle fat and go waaa waaa waaa.
 
i have a set of the 5/16 adjustables in my xf.  It’s efi, they do not fit under the efi cover without an aussiespeed spacer.  It’s also not standard efi - eb inlet el ecu with quarter horse.
 
i could have gone v8 had less hassles but I kinda like how friendly the crossy is.  It’s not a fast combo but it’s a great streeter with a Bit of attitude which I’ve learnt a lot from.
 
Other guys like rob and ando will have their own bit to add to this but hopefully this helps in the interim
 
Dave 

If you buy the scorpian set for a v6 thunderbird there cheaper and you get the correct number.
 
Buying a V8 set leaves you 4 left over which is handy at times.

Agreed. +1.
 
Clevo adjustables like YT6015 aren't cheap. (around $900, bolt on, 5/16" stud). Scorpion do a new set #3224,but haven't found a price for them yet. Non adjustables are around $600. 
 
and you'll have 2 spares. 

Possible: Yes (Cleveland style bolt-on rockers)
Performance: no
Economy: no

Stock rockers are fine for stock or mild engines, just use a good quality zinc oil or a moly additive to prevent wear in the pivot over a long period.

Roller rockers are mechanical insurance for a modified valvetrain ie: bigger cam, stiffer valve springs, higher rpm. With the greater forces involved with all of these aspects, the roller pivot and tip reduce friction and wear. The oil stays cleaner due to reduced shearing/breakdown.

If you ever do go down that path, don't skimp on the quality. Lots of tiny hardened needle rollers floating around your engine is what we call a "Chernobyl" in the trade.

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Sounds like you need a good/ different mechanic. 

easier than it sounds.. almost easier to become one yourself

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

They need to keep the valve under control hence needing duals or tripples with dampers. 
Modern spring material helps but spring pressure is needed regardless. 
 

See don't be fooled by the double spring debacle. Modern bee hive springs have a much better rate and control over the valve thru the complete range of movement, compared to rock ape old 80's thinking double spring garbage. 
Now you can get a great single beehive spring that will comfortably handle .620" lift and big duration and roller profiles. 
Its all about matching the spring to the cam, head flow figures with manifold attached and cam type. Get it wrong and you will waste mechanical effort at best, at worse you will wipe lobs and generally have an underperforming s..tbox. Cam manufactures guidleines are close enough for mild to medium performance applications. 

Yes, they prevent getting my nickname .
Heavier springs are to help over come boost pushing on the back of the valve and holding it open after the lobe has passed.

as far as i know, to prevent valve bounce. 
why do they put heavier springs on boosted engines? 
 

Boosted engines require greater spring control due to a number of factors. Increased cylinder pressure, Increased ex temps being just a few. You also want to look at hardened locks and good collets for serious boosted engines that see decent rpm. 

Can some one explain, why would you fit DOUBLE valve springs. What is the benefit if any..?..Thanks.

I'm using a car cover but inside a garage.
Outside in rain the moisture will get to it.....and rust anything exposed..... like tarping a car.

Personally... if outside better to grab 4 posts, 4 bags of crete, 4 rails and grab some old tin.... its a roof... you will never see it.
Then if you want it protected ... shade cloth 3 sides. Done.

You need airflow around the car and any trapped moisture is the enemy.

Jack.

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Yep I’m using a super cheap suv cover on my pano.

Main thing with any cover is to take them off every few weeks and let the air get in there and dry out any moisture.


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@Crazy2287 mate one day id love to have a lengthy chat with you about running aftermarket ECU with my XF. I have bookmarked the links you posted above so i can do some reading etc. they seem a cheaper option than the way i was going to go. 
 
I was going go with a Stinger Performance Plug and Play ECU (for US EECIV Fords), which was going to set me back over $1000AUD by the time i got it here. but only 2 pins would have to be changed, and internally its a Megasquirt. the beauty was it would literally plug in and work. 

You'll have to pull then out and pop the glass off the front. Clean the glass using normal glass cleaning techniques. Be careful cleaning the reflector. Use a soft cloth as it will mark easily. 

You've got glass headlights, so the toothpaste or sanding won't work, that's for more modern cars with the plastic headlight lenses

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