Stevemack

Thanks guys, some great info there.
I was looking for one of those Angular Torque Gauges at the local auto shops, but had no such luck there. So I might just grab the scribe and protractor and mark my 120 degree markings that way, as I don't want to wait for another week to get one sent from eBay (the joys of living in rural areas).
As I stated, I'm using a brand new ProTorque TTY headbolts set with a Permaseal Multi Layer Steel (MLS) headgasket, the info sheet that comes with the gasket says 30Nm + 120 degrees, so I'll use their settings as I'm sure I've seen other MLS gaskets come with those exact same directions.
I just liked the idea of doing the 3 stage torque method as I have a good quality Torque wrench, but no angle gauge.
But if you experienced fellas say to use the torque + degree method, that's the way I'll go about it.
That's the info I was looking for, so thanks heaps for the helpful responses.

I'm with Revhead, done thousands of the suckers, if you've got the degree wheel to use with the breaker bar do it that way, plenty of assembly lube on the underside of the headbolts and some on the threads.  And I always use a genuine AU headgasket (steel) never have to do it again.  I've found that the composite gaskets don't last well. 

in my line of work ive done hundreds if not thousands of e series head gaskets etc ,ive found the 90 degree turn after initial, torque setting is the only way, also buy new head bolts ,don't be a tight arse as ive seen old ones shatter or snap clean off

And as per gerg, EA-ED/XG-XH Multipoint injected manifolds, are referred to as 'Log Manifolds' due to their shape,
where six equal length runners, branch out from a main intake 'log'.

Log motor - (or more correctly, log HEAD motor) -  the 1V pre-crossflow inline six's, which have the intake cast as a part of the cylinder head.
 
Those head/intake combo's suit single barrel stromberg carbies
- I like the strombergs, cause you can rebuild them for about $20.00.

Hmmm, i reckon give it a try, whats it gonna do, give you higher fuel pressure? oh no! lol

Looking to put a huffer on my EF race car, looking for 350+ at the treads.  Will do a build thread when I'm doing it, using mostly off the shelf or wrecker genuine parts.

What about Ford AFL1MC, do they work? Also Baldwin B2 is another Z9 and nicely made (in USA) have a nice thick case.

Looking to put a huffer on my EF race car, looking for 350+ at the treads.  Will do a build thread when I'm doing it, using mostly off the shelf or wrecker genuine parts.

Those little toyota ones that the rod shop do are almost worthless on a falcon.  Turbo that sucker!

Looking to put a huffer on my EF race car, looking for 350+ at the treads.  Will do a build thread when I'm doing it, using mostly off the shelf or wrecker genuine parts.

Toyota SC14 is off a 2 litre 1ggze by the time they make boost on an engine more than twice the size they would be roasting the air. Blow through turbo would shit on any s/c setup in terms of power and price. Far easier to add an intercooler as well. If you're having it under bonnet then you aren't going for the visual appeal of a blower, so you might as well make power.

Those little toyota ones that the rod shop do are almost worthless on a falcon.  Turbo that sucker!

The el2s ran the explorer au manifold stock, the gains fitting the gt type inlet instead of the au one would be just about non existent. Buy a later xr8 and sell the manifold.

If that is the Felpro gaskets , black material with the blue bead they are garbage

every model ford since the ea ran a diff plug for the ecu,s and efi set ups the only two to be alike are the ef el 5litre engine harness,s
 
 
 
antiher thing is the numbers on the ecu determine what bcm ecu ran and if they matched up to work

VR2A is the best block to have, you're right it's the el-au hybrid.  The balancer type won't make any difference but it sounds like the problem you're chasing.

When doing a manual conversion in my EF, I had to bridge that neutral switch connector so it would start and also put a particular resistor into one of the wires so the computer thought it was plugged into the gear position sensor (which is a variable resistor inside the auto box) and in "drive". Otherwise it would think it was in neutral. Never quite fixed the high idle problem until I fucked with the ISC valve itelf.

Is it dependent on load? Can you feather it slowly past that point or is it a sudden cut-off? If so I'm leaning towards neutral switch. Knock sensor will only come in under load. Not sure about AUs, but BAs have a rev limiter when in neutral to stop you revving it up and slamming it into gear. If that's the same with yours, sounds like could be doing things opposite to what it should. Maybe it thinks it's in neutral when in gear? Have you done anything to make it think it's not in neutral? 2500 on a V8 tach is 3333 rpm when hooked up to a 6

thats why were all here to help each other
 
Anytime!

the relays in front of your over flow bottle ,2x are for low beam 2x are for hi beam ,but it wont be them ,there is alittle tin with either 2x thick yellow wires going to it ,this is the hi beam biometalic strip, replace this and all will be well!

There will be wiring going back into the cabin, which is where they put the changeover relay usually, Just follow it back, you will see the difference between the original and the gas wiring pretty easily.  Rejoin where it's spliced into the loom, you'll be fine!

Follow all the wiring back till you find where they originally cut the loom, and rejoin it.  should be pretty easy.

Says it all really,trace every wire,rejoin any that are cut.
Not that hard mate.

Follow all the wiring back till you find where they originally cut the loom, and rejoin it.  should be pretty easy.