Trev Vaa

that sounds awesome..
 
good luck finding info on turbine sizing (learned that when I was at ford from the turbo engineers) - dont remember the maths involved.
 
but the compressor side is explained over at turbobygarrett.com.
 
keep us posted!

hyd roller setup probably best bang for buck.
 
AFD 2v heads, AFD Intake, Comp 290hr or a camtech CT2021 - 49906-110 cam, 10.8:1 compression, hypereutectic pistons (with valve releifs), balanced bottom end, QFT/Pro Systems carby, should shit in 450hp. should rev cleanly to about 6300, the camtech will make a bit more hp and tq and it would be my preference personally.
 
ARP bolt and stud kit obviously, get the heads set up by Dave at AFD, buy your cam first, then tell him you want it set up to suit and give him the money, the guy knows his shit.
 
stroking it is up to you and what you can afford. work out your budget, price everything up, then add 10% because you can just bout gaurentee you will spend it.
 
try n keep the bore 30thou over max, unless you have had the bore sonic tested and its a thick wall block.
the less overbore you have, the better.
 
best bit, everything will be off the shelf which makes it easy to work with.
 
edit: just punched that combo into DD and you should scream upwards of 480hp. the camtech made more power too. DD dyno results are as follows.
comp 290hr 507hp 458ftlbs camtech 516hp 463ftlbs camtech had a nicer graph too. (do not expect this power level, it assumes perfect conditions and no accesories on the motor but 480hp should be easily done)

good work man, seriously, playing around with boosters etc is very out of the box thinking, i also agree annular boosters are by far my favourite.
 
and yeh, a cammed 302 will make ample torque, definitely a smart mod, picking the right cam is important though, on a daiy mid range is definitely where you want the power to be. that cam you chose has a pretty mild ramp up too, so it should last 100,000k

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover.
 
I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case.
 
My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby.
 
The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot.
 
By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference!
 
I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens.
 
In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.

Thanks mate, but the thread is about intercooler style, not specific brands.

And these threads keep popping up. x amount of hp for x amount of dollars.
The guys who do it are one offs, they are the exceptions to the rule, they aren't the rule.
99% of blokes will never see 600hp in any type of engine for less than 15k engine alone.
If you're going a 6, then that will buy you your turbo too along with your forgies and other bits to make the engine turn.
Forget about building it for less, it is that ever long fantasy people talk about and as mention 1% achieve. Most of us laymen will fork out a lot more for less power.

mate if you have ever driven a car with 670hp you will realise how serious it is to drive something like that around.... i think an honest 600hp is ample to get you into the low 10s in an XD-F, and realisticly you probably wont need a whole lot more than that, you'll be struggling for traction at that level anyway, big time.
 
now bang for Buck, id say Dions combo is the best going around, he has never had issues with it, and he abuses the living shit out of it constantly, and it runs low 10s in a full street car. cost is probably up around 10-12k, remember a sump alone can set you back over 1k (ask someone whos bought one of ASRs high end sumps), i remember the minor details of his combo if you want i can list them here.
 
as for strokers not revving.... what about a 532ci that revs to 7500? and is street driven whenever its dry enough on a weekend?
 
its easier to do it with a clevo, they have better heads, but the best combo is still a dart block with clevo heads

Better tell Branco his his 451small block can't rev than?

just had straight threw mufflers put on today trev sounds pretty nice only cam i have here is a nokia N95.. took a vid today but it sounds like shit. idol was a lil low to
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLkPt6d9Ah0

our XC 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rD34SmzF2-M

Not mine but i reckon thats pretty choice idle.
 

Do you have an XD or an XE?

If you have an XD, the leafsprings will fuck your universe

dude, call up GTFORD performance in niddrie victoria, get one sent out to you.

depends how serious your motor is.... look a choke is always handy, especially when your in a cold area.
 
ive seen motors with 550hp that still have a choke, in saying that i dont use one, two pumps then crank it and hold my foot lightly on the throttle and play with it till it clears out, then hold the revs up before i drive off... of course at 5am my neighbours did not like the idea of me doing that.... especially with an exhaust that was 127db and set off every car alarm as i went past....
 
i prefer the way a double pumper feels on the throttle, i like a mechanical connection between my foot and the engines performance.
as for spreadbore vs squarebore... just depends on the applications and how punchy you like the secondaries.... i like the feeling of a squarebore, i like to get booted up the ass when the secondaries come into play...

depends how serious your motor is.... look a choke is always handy, especially when your in a cold area.
 
ive seen motors with 550hp that still have a choke, in saying that i dont use one, two pumps then crank it and hold my foot lightly on the throttle and play with it till it clears out, then hold the revs up before i drive off... of course at 5am my neighbours did not like the idea of me doing that.... especially with an exhaust that was 127db and set off every car alarm as i went past....
 
i prefer the way a double pumper feels on the throttle, i like a mechanical connection between my foot and the engines performance.
as for spreadbore vs squarebore... just depends on the applications and how punchy you like the secondaries.... i like the feeling of a squarebore, i like to get booted up the ass when the secondaries come into play...

how the fuck did that not score a 10/10???
mate that is honestly fantastic work. well done

lol dont they use a normal tank?
dude probably cheaper inc shipping than it would be over here anyway, i buy shit from germany all the time for the BM, it costs me less inc shipping than the equivilent parts on an EL XR8 do here.
perfect example, lower control arm inc balljoint and bush, 80$ to my door, air flow meter, genuine bosch brand new, $225 delivered, it's insane.

can make 500hp with an air gap manifold.
best manifold on the market today for mild to warm motors imo

or the proper way, get an internal bearing puller. lol
 
i have used grease when i haven't had mine on hand though