Wes

The sump in mine was completely custom. It was a High energy unit but the only thing I would recommend on them is weld down the two side baffles on the outer extremes. If xeeclipse was being cheeky, he wasn't being thorough. The only time my engine sounded rattly was when these flaps bent up I presume from the engine sitting for a prolonged period on the sump which I believe caused the sump to flex. What then happened is they were being flicked by the conrod every time it went around. Took the sump off, welded them down and never another rattle except for the standard warming up of forgies and rings on start up and standard rocker/cam noise whenever you go larger. Have a listen to any serious 4L, OHC or Barra and this is normal. No way does this mean it is a rattly motor.

Yeah got thermo's and radiators from EF. EF thermo's are the highest flowing of the lot.

pfft.
until evidence of your superior crossflow or windsor you drive regularly and as reliably, runs consistent numbers like mine and get's driven anywhere at any time you need to keep your cyber fantasies to yourself. Rattly motor lmao... shows how many serious engines you've been around.

pfft.
until evidence of your superior crossflow or windsor you drive regularly and as reliably, runs consistent numbers like mine and get's driven anywhere at any time you need to keep your cyber fantasies to yourself. Rattly motor lmao... shows how many serious engines you've been around.

pfft.
until evidence of your superior crossflow or windsor you drive regularly and as reliably, runs consistent numbers like mine and get's driven anywhere at any time you need to keep your cyber fantasies to yourself. Rattly motor lmao... shows how many serious engines you've been around.

pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too.
Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L

pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too.
Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L

Jamie.... you can't be serious. As Defective pointed out, there is no comparison between a built to order wheel in 2 or three piece and a piece of alloy junk. Sure, they're not for everyone but to call them a joke is not correct. 2k may not get you the look you're after. Thank God the serious car builders don't shun their cars in 12 slotters any more.

Jamie.... you can't be serious. As Defective pointed out, there is no comparison between a built to order wheel in 2 or three piece and a piece of alloy junk. Sure, they're not for everyone but to call them a joke is not correct. 2k may not get you the look you're after. Thank God the serious car builders don't shun their cars in 12 slotters any more.

Lol at comparing quality three piece rims, available in whatever offset and size you want, to some stock 1980s alloys...

Can you say revs? 40-45 psi of boost when it later made more power.

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

Thanks for the input guys. I have ended up going for one with opposing end tanks like Wes was talking about.

Au bottom ends but EF- EL heads are better. They flow more out of the box in standard trim, ie they breathe better. That's if you can be stuffed with the whole conversion mating of halves.

You don't need two, You can run a pipe off each scroll merged into one pipe and run the gate off that.
Kinda like this:
 

Rob, he's a 1%er..... You gotta speak in laymens and general terms otherwise like the old turbo fables that everyone thinks they can build for 2k and how many of them have we ever seen constantly driving more than a week on the road? None of those guys have got their cars together in one piece or have enjoyed them for longer than a month and then thrown them away, sold them for peanuts or given up.

And these threads keep popping up. x amount of hp for x amount of dollars.
The guys who do it are one offs, they are the exceptions to the rule, they aren't the rule.
99% of blokes will never see 600hp in any type of engine for less than 15k engine alone.
If you're going a 6, then that will buy you your turbo too along with your forgies and other bits to make the engine turn.
Forget about building it for less, it is that ever long fantasy people talk about and as mention 1% achieve. Most of us laymen will fork out a lot more for less power.

Yeah may be just condensation. I had this last year about this time, I was concerned about milky water and drops of water in the oil, but dipstick always clear oil. I ended up compression testing , all good, so got the whole lot pulled down and checked and nothing wrong.
 
To stop the condensation, all I did was instead of having the breather on the catch can go to atmosphere, I just attached a hose to the top side of the carb hat, so gave slight suction to keep the water mist or condensation out of the engine, and its all gone. Still get milky oil on underside of the cap until its warmed up if I haven't driven it in a week or so.
 
Depends how much water and how you found it. I first found mine last year when dumping the oil, started seeing milky oil on underside of oil cap, so dumped the oil and found about a cap full of water in the oil and panicked, but ultimately it was all fine, but cost me $1200 to strip clean and test to be sure..!

Looking at this on the phone so can't read it all. It looks like you've gone to quite a bit of effort. Well done.

Looking at this on the phone so can't read it all. It looks like you've gone to quite a bit of effort. Well done.

The xe and efi doesn't have a tfi dizzy.. Fuel only injection control bro.
 
As mentioned before on fb. Process of elimination.
Check for
all vacuum leaks.
Idle speed motor.
Your coil
Your relays