matt_lamb_160

List of good cams:
 
For use with std. EFI ECU, would be good in any otherwise std x-series: Camtech ***-509
 
Should be std. and my pick if you don't plan on changing much else: Camtech ***-503B Tighe 422A
 
Max. recommended for 2.77 gears with stock converter (needs springs), I think these actually need minimum 2.92 diff gears (max. 3.27). Tighe 725 (could use the crow 14892, but it is small for a 280deg. adv. cam)
 
For details see the Camtech and Tighe’s websites.
 
http://www.camtechca..._xflow_hyd.html http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

i remember when the young girl owned it this about 15yrs ago, think it had the plates MSPSI and her dad built it for her or some shit
 
just had a quick read thru this thread, your better off getting another rusted shell with good trim and swap dashes and looms over, dunno what the guy was thinking with all the nasa lights going on

List of good cams:
 
For use with std. EFI ECU, would be good in any otherwise std x-series: Camtech ***-509
 
Should be std. and my pick if you don't plan on changing much else: Camtech ***-503B Tighe 422A
 
Max. recommended for 2.77 gears with stock converter (needs springs), I think these actually need minimum 2.92 diff gears (max. 3.27). Tighe 725 (could use the crow 14892, but it is small for a 280deg. adv. cam)
 
For details see the Camtech and Tighe’s websites.
 
http://www.camtechca..._xflow_hyd.html http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

Yeah mate - It is stick shift at the moment but there is no way that is staying.  Big stall auto - only way to go for me - or a Jericho - now that's just dreaming.

I suspect there is a few of us on here with a crossflow addiction so I thought I'd start a thread where we can share photos of our addiction. (admin delete if not allowed)
 
I'll start the ball rolling;
 

 
Absent from this photo is my 'loan' race engine. It's in Brenton's race car.

Somone take pictures of mine, i think i could line one side of my shed with them

need more engine stands i think theres only 10


 

True but if the engine is apart and is getting a re bore I'd suggest the seats are tired so why not avoid the hassle of the flash lube. Nothing wrong with it but. I'd use it on an existing engine that was running fine for sure, especially a limited use vehicle

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

mate that has happened to me as well get rid of the nolathne bush and replace with a superpro version they are way better. Mine did the same when it was a street car and I replaced them with superpro and they stand the caning I give it on the drag strip no worries.

Bit more progress. Couple of fittings welded on. One on the back of the head for my supplementary oil drain and 2 on the rocker cover.
 

 

 
Front fitting will go to the vacuum pump and the rear fitting will go down to the fuel pump block off and act as a balance tube. This is a good idea when running a vacuum pump. Gauge tapped into the middle is to measure vacuum. I have an adjustable relief on the vac pump so this way I can accurately measure the vacuum being pulled out.
 

 
Got the Red Zone roller lifter fitted into the block for the last time. Plenty of clearance now and despite having a different tie bar set up to the comp units, they were very easy to install.
 

 
Fitted my last ever ACL Race series head gasket. Love the look and function of these things. Shame we can't get them anymore.

Ok cool. Since your close enough to me I have an XF ute sitting in my yard that you are welcome to if you need, I can send particular pics if you like. I do have the plastic trim that is under the dash that goes under the steering column as well as a glovebox if you need one. Let me know what you need and I can see if I have it.

Far out he was trying to turn it into KITT from Knight Rider

I remember this car when it was first done. Glad someone bought it (although I hate all the stick on shit). Good luck with it

Camtech ALWAYS go dot to dot on his grinds. Mal actually cares about that unlike a certain QLD grinder.

i think he is going for the 389 cam with a little more aggressive ramp rate but again the cam is just one small thing
 
regarding lift, you can get it to flow past 600 and hold it to 650 but it's hard because you have to shape the port like a D on its side while it goes around as the ports aren't straight or else you hit water, this is a nightmare and you can't possibly add more cfm without basically tracing the water jacket, if you fill the port with melted rubber then pull it out and you measure the circumference of the smallest part of the port you'll see it flows under 127cfm at 10", this is right before the short turn so doing anything in the bowl etc is pointless at mid to high lift, you gain some low lift but that's about it, i think the guy from WA who said you get 300 hp from his heads was full of shit if he only did pocket work, just opening up the area before the short turn by 1mm gives you 132cmf at 10" for 5min with a die grinder and absolutely nothing else, you go 3 mill and you hit water thou so you have to get an inverted D where the straight line is the floor
 
I really like to see this engine go, are you going to have it done before the winter ?

"On todays episode of Australian Cortina ......"
Did some more work on the intake manifold. Firstly I wanted to remove the brackets and bungs that were cut or molded into it. I'll put some bungs for vacuum lines etc later into the back of it, so its much neater for plumbing. So what I did, I cut the peices off with the grinder and then shaped and used those peices as plugs to plug up the holes. It worked a treat. Yes it was tedious work, but its the same material so I though it would work best. I just welded the top of it close to the surface and then filed them smooth.


I then decked the ends of the runners that meet up to the injector manifold. I got some 80g emerycloth and nail it to the bench, then spray it with WD40 and then pushed the manifold back and forth along it. 4 hours later, I finally had a decked set of runners. Dead flat now and butt up perfectly. I decked the injector manifold while I was at it.

Did some porting of the runners as due to being cut into so many peices, they had overlaps and all sorts of stuff. Using a combination of the allow burrs and the metal burrs, along with an extension for the die grinder, I finally got some decent results, I think! 6 hours in this one. OOFT!





And this is what it looks like now. I did some work on the fuel rail also, but I'll go into more detail later after I get the bungs for the ends put on etc.

Next I'm going to pressure test the manifold, just in case, and then see if I can get it flow tested at RPM Motorsport with Steve. I might need to make the throttle body elbow first, but I'll see what he says. Also finish off the fuel rail.

"On todays episode of Australian Cortina ..."
I had an old XF Falcon EFI manifold sitting around and always wanted to use it, but didn't like how the TB faced the exhaust area and that the plenum basically sat on top of the rocker cover.
So I decided to face the TB towards the opposite side, the only problem is the runners curl up and over towards the original side. So after finding a nice place for the plenum to sit, I started cutting down the runners and joining them back up again.
I cut them at the flange ends and then would check to see which sections of the runners would suit which bends. There were 3 different bends which all needed to be made twice for all the runners. The ones furthest apart had to bend more, whereas the ones closer to the centre needed less bending.



It was really tricky work, but I got there in the end.
I just need to TIG it all up now.
I'll place a 90 degree elbow on the TB plate area, so that the TB then faces forward. I'll port all the runners to get the joins all flowing nice and maybe even place a air divider in the plenum just after the elbow incase it doesn't distribute air efficiently.
Next up, I think I might put the Intercooler in and start mocking up the cooler piping.

"On todays episode of Australian Cortina ..."
Many moons ago I bought all the gear I needed to make up my own exhaust manifold for the turbo. It came with a quickly made and tacked together merge collector, a turbo flange, multiple 45's and multiple 90's in 2 different sizes and a long peice of pipe to suit, which was maybe a metre long. I got it all through Turbo Exhaust out at Smithfield.
I recently bought a header flange from Liverpool Exhaust/Hurricane which is all laser cut and a really nice peice. The one that Turbo exhaust supplied was a 2 peice job which was better suited to extractors.
So I first fixed up the merge collector as I wasn't overly happy with it and the gaps weren't tight enough. Then it was a matter of starting the jigsaw puzzle which is the turbo manifold. Alittle cut here, a little cut there, grind here, grind there, weld this on, weld that on. And after 2 and a half days, it was all tacked together, ready for full welding.




Just a word of advise, your better off starting from the furthest point and wokring your way back in, the last one was a real tricky bugger.
The turbo I bought many moons ago also, its a GT35/40 by Garret which I bought from GCG Turbos. Its rated at 700hp. NICE!




Next up, I'll probably start either routing cooler piping or work out engine pulleys and alternator options etc.

The plug angle is the reason I didn't mention GT40p heads in the beginning. It is likely that a set of custom extractors would need to be made to fit those heads. If the OP is keen to get hands on & do port work themselves, the cast heads might be half a chance, but if your paying for port work to be done, the $$$$ soon start to add up.
If you want something that is cost effective, reliable & sounds cranky, get a late model EFI Windsor. Fit a performer manifold, 600 vac secondary holly & electronic dizzy. The roller can fitted to those things sound tough as once the injection is taken off them.
If you get an AU 5.0 with the GT40p heads, it might be worth getting the AU exhaust manifold to fit or extractors custom made.

The real test would be to go buy a good and a shit oil. Decant both oils into unmarked containers so only the supplier knows which is which, and then run the test.
For it to be valid though, both oils would need to be the same grade.
 
But, in saying that the measure of an oil is not how much power the engine makes when running on it. You could fill your sump with Diesel, for about 30 seconds you'd call it the best oil ever.
 
If you want run an oil that does not fit manufacuters spec, have modified the engine heavily or want to change our OCI's and you really want to know if the oil your using is fit for your purpose, then you do the research, Choose an oil, Run the car on that oil for a short change interval (100km) then on the next interval run a couple of tests on the oil spaced over your expected interval (Start, middle, end) using the engine as you intend to use it.
Testing a sample costs less than an oil change and gives you a lot of information that you are otherwise only guessing about, or have to tear the engine down to find out later.
 
Here is an example of samples i have taken on my 4X4. I wanted to extend the oil change intervals to 10,000km (from 5) and use a cheaper oil that's usually used by fleet. You can see i changed from the Val DLX to the Delo400.

 
I do not need to do further analysis And now i KNOW that in my circumstance running the oil for twice it's OCI is fine. This saves me about $60 bucks every 10,000km plus the labor and i know the engine is healthy. Plus i also know the Delo has better ZDDP and Moly levels which in theory indicate a better anti wear pack.

Pretty easy to get pretty good.

Middle screw on a 300a is idle only. Squared one on the bit that bolts on is the "power valve"

Probably more like 6k (realistically) but you don't need to spin it to make power... That's the whole point of them.