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Everything posted by matt_lamb_160

  1. No. Hook it up to a programmable MSD 6AL2 and then you can have any curve you like and to suit any cam.
  2. Tell that to people running old windsor heads... Charles Taylor told everyone in the 60s that exhaust doesn't matter all that much and that if it flows 60% of the intake it is pretty much enough. But, more exhaust doesn't hurt. Yours is a serious looking head and it will be a beast.
  3. Great comparison in that second picture. What are the flow figures for it now?
  4. Maybe measure again. Unless it has had a fair wack tacken off of the gasket surface, it will be more than 45cc.
  5. Cam specs are on the previous page. Looks like a lot of compression for the size of the cam to me.
  6. Sounds like you probably can for $190...
  7. Should have just holesawed that bumper for next time ;)...
  8. Haha. I would prefer to question nothing (so long as there is nothing dishonest happening) and just acknowledge that they are fast.
  9. It is a light, and why would you care? It should be light. It is a race car. Obviously, it helps it be fast. It is still fast. Do people get pissy with racers calling their car a full weight street car when they are running race full and the car is clearly not roadworthy (legally)?
  10. Is this car on the net somewhere?
  11. Irrespective of what it weighs, it is fast. Good to see another fast 250.
  12. I doubt it, but yeah a straighter port must be of benifit. Do you have examples of the Cleveland heads that have been chopped to achieve this?
  13. Manual valvebody in an auto you get engine braking too, so they also work for corners.
  14. Sounds like he also wanted your rockers and springs. Mind you, if it had a stock cam, I tend to agree with what he said. It must not have been std. Hurricane do make decent extractors too.
  15. Pulley/balancer setup looks way better post mod. Do you need the v-pulley? Your crank will like you if you can take it off and have less hanging off of the front and the s/c pulling closer to the block.
  16. I also agree that you likely have at least 5deg too much base timing at the moment. You can set this for what the car likes at idle and use your ramp to get to where you need to be at total. ***** Sorry, I missed that you have already pulled it back to 15 degs.
  17. Yeah, ok. You might be able to bring it in sooner though?
  18. I agree with what Greg has said, but I also say do it. And the argument for getting this rather than paying someone to tune a carb is the same as having programmable ignition rather than getting a re-graphed dizzy (i.e. you change something and you don't need to pay again). It also means you don't need to take it somewhere and talk to someone, haha. That last vid it goes pretty lean on transition though.
  19. I would have thought more than 2 deg/500rpm? At 14deg idle (and upto 900rpm to stop the timing wandering at idle), that is less than 25deg total at 3,200rpm (where I would be thinking more like 32-34deg. This would be my total advance guess (i.e. 32-34deg at 3,000-3,200rpm). In saying this 2deg/500rpm might be a good starting point and ramp it up progressively from there.
  20. How much boost can these things handle?
  21. Almost, yeah. Nice clean and bright headlights (like new factory XE lights) for me. But then again, I like XFs so WTF would I know, haha.
  22. Rev it as much as you are comfortable with. The guys that want to see 6,000rpm before everything is sorted can build their own. Once you have a good power run under your belt and see it working to 6k, then you might use it.
  23. Yeah, stiffer, but not as stiff as new lows still.
  24. Cutting springs makes the spring rate higher, not lower. Just buy some lows.