matt_lamb_160

Yeah the OMVL setups don't work. The converters are good for HP, but mixer rings are not. Even with an air-rod variable mixer you use way more gas to make the same power as an Impco setup and the mixtures will vary way more. My turbo'ed Impco setup uses way less gas than my 180-200HP air-rod powered crossy did

It is a 4brl manifold. Yes it is blow through. Apart from the exhaust and good wastegate I think I have done it about as cheap as ir can be done wellish.

The 7 sounds like a nice bit of kit, probably too nice for my setup.
 
As good as they are, the main limitation with these ignition boxes is the amount of timing variation the distributor can cope with (phasing) before crossfiring will occur. This took some time to sort when I fitted my 6AL-P to an MSD billet dizzy. Luckily the trigger wheel is on a fine spline so I could get the spark reasonably centred to the cap terminals. I had to solder on a wing to the end of the rotor tip to make sure the spark didn't have to jump more than it needed to.
 
This required sacrificing a dizzy cap by drilling a hole next to #1 terminal and watching the spark over the range of timing possible from the tune I had in it. I then moved the trigger wheel and adjusted the timing again till it was happy.
 
I ended up with about 35 base, 45 total and pulls out about 20 under full load.
 
The programmable rpm curve is nice, but the best feature I think is the load curve (ie boost retard). It transforms an ancient clunker into a crisp, responsive and pleasant driver, and even lets you wind the timing right up for a quiet, mellow idle. It has the effect of plugging in your vac advance to manifold vac, without the drawbacks of poor response time. You also need less throttle opening to achieve the same idle speed.

if you need 45 degrees of timing then that's something gone wrong ....must be open chamber iron head?
 
the reason i used the 7 is because the HSV2 coil it needs will pump out 1 amp sparks which was needed for silly comp on E85, i also wanted to try LPG turbo down the track so it was the right choice for an ignition box
 
yeah the vacuum/boost is nice, specially when you tune your carb for cruise, start retard is awesome as well, you get away with a small braille/dekka battery for startup, like 5kg batter will start a high comp xlflow with no issue 
 
really i think every warm crossflow should get the programable 6 msd

I must say in the 14 years ive been playing with crossys ive never change the cam bearings with the engine together althow it is one thing ive always let the machine shop do for me

you will find if the cam bearings are not real good the rest of them will be even worse and id pull the whole thing down messure it all up and linnish crank check and or close and hone them and screw it back together

ive been the cam change path many times these days I just rering and bearing them as a 2nd hand engine with a cam will not last the test of time, 1 year in you will be building it anyways. that or shut your eyes fit the cam and hope in a year you can fit it to your new one

its is your engine its just free advice re ring it now a stock engine is only $250 in bearings and rings to build and buy your self a bottle hone to hone the block and $80 to linnish the crank and what ever they charge to check the rods

Thanks SPArKy Dave.
The aftermarket ones are rubbish with their pressed tin impellers.

Your switching a 20w-60 oil for a 0w-30/0w-50 of course your going to gain power.
The corrosion would likely be undetectable until failure. The best way to check for it would be oil analysis.
I would not recommend using it in a 5000km OCI.
But, if Anyone does decide to use it, id' recommend monitoring the oil for TBN retention every 1000-1500km just to make sure it's not failing under the conditions presented by your engine and expected OCI. Don't forget to post results.

BTW, 5000km is approx 2200 laps of wakefield park...

Ryco filters are good units, Cut a few oil and petty ones open and could not fault them. Use coil springs in the bypass and silicone ADBV too. Specs say they filter to factory efficiency levels. So yeah, Nothing wrong with ryco. If your not sure what filter to get then get a ryco.
If you want something better then you can go for a high efficiency filter. I think ryco do a HE z9 speck filter but i've never used them.
Currently i use a Dobinson P169071 which uses a multi-layer synthetic medium for filtering with an efficiency rating of 22um @99%
It's plausible to use a good (ie Dobinson) HE filter for 25,000km in standard applications and just change (or drain+add a liter) of oil to keep the wear pack up. However dont do this without taking oil samples and having them checked every 5,000k For your first Filter/oil change interval to ensure that doing it suits your engine and application.
When comparing micron levels ensure you compare at the same efficiency ratings. Ie some brands will give their UM at 85% efficiency. IE, 20um @ 85%: So in other words 15% of contaminates smaller than 20um make it through. If a filter spec does not give you what efficiency it's measured at then assume they are using a lower efficiency.
For comparison, For engine oils, A filter that performs at 40um@99% is good. The get better than this a synthetic medium is usually used, as trapping smaller than 40um with a normal paper element will impede oil flow.
For fuel filters, a good efficiency rating is 12um @ 99% or less. New diesels and EFI cars typically need and use as low as 4um filters for fuel.
 
For oil, I'm a big fan of Penrite HPR30 in a standard crossy. I've had some HPR30 suffer from either shearing or thermal breakdown after using the car for Drags and circuit, As showen by a drop in Viscosity picked up by an oil analysis. This is caused by mechanical shearing or thermal breakdown of the viscosity modifiers.
Full synthetic oils don't have viscosity modifiers so i've switched to Penrite racing 15, This oil's also resistant to emulsification so it will be suitable for alcohol fuels.
Done 3k on the oil so far, cars been unregistered for all of that so it's mostly track work and burnouts. Nothing has gone wrong yet but due to the low KM on the oil i've not done an oil analysis, This will be coming early next year.
 
So my recommendation is HPR30 for normal - street at about $50 a bottle or use Racing15 or Racing20 for Hectic under the pump engines at about $75 a bottle
 
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=24&id_products=278
 
Never done anything at all with Fuch oil so i cannot comment. But if someone wants to do some Tribology on their funch oil at set interval in a crossy Id be interested in the results. It it performs as well as the Penrite and costs less I'll be changing for sure!

Theres a big hp jump in the 50 cubes is the thought but TBH unless proven other wise it is just talk. Based on 253 vs 308 is not a fair comparison but no one builds 253s over 308 if you get my drift.
 
I think there's merit in the smaller 230 odd cubes and a really fat bore but thats me.

Doesn't look like a crack to me.  For the price of a sump gasket you can whip it out and check.  It may just be that someone dragged it across the bench or dropped something on it - or foreign body damage thru the intake as Ryan has said.
 
You have to remember that most people treat these things as taxi motors and don't give them the respect of love they deserve.

should not use anything between the pump and the block

If you are going to run an oil cooler make sure you use big lines to feed it. -12 (yes 3/4") minimum!!! If you don't you will see a massive drop in oil pressure to the scary level. I used 1/2" line and lost 20psi of oil,pressure in a heart beat. I shit you not and that was with a quality cooler and properly radius end and tidied take off fitting at the filter.
I do not recommend 'on circuit' oil cooling on these engines. I would rather see an increased capacity, quality sump and oil in there rather than any cooler.
The other option is 'off circuit' cooling. This is a great option and if you had a serious, extended duration Motorsport turbo engine, I'd build the off circuit system for sure. A Tilton diff pump is the go.

Ok. Just a word of advice from someone who actually builds meth crossflows as part of his living. Don't go over 13:1 compression. In fact if you plan on giving it a rev, go lower. Like 11.9-12.5. Why? Because if you go higher you will not be able to add any real timing, but more importantly you will tear the corner out of number 1 cylinder bore. It wil crack across to the water pump area first and then it will crack and take out the whole top drivers side corner of the block.
 
Seen it happen way to many times to be core shift or bore size related. They are just a bit thin in that area for really high cylinder pressure and high piston speed. Don't forget that one. 3.909 stroke. A piston in a crossflow doing 6000rpm travels a lot further than a chev or 302 Windsor at 6000.
 
Meth is cool but e85 is the go for the street. Both add torque in spades.

Wagoon the only reason you have not seen big numbers out of a blown engine is not many people have done a good one. mine has made 400hp on pump fuel on 12 pounds on a super basic solid engine. Jeff Ramsey had a bit to do with mine back then and that setup was built to do 500hp, my issue was it was a stock rod engine so we never pushed it past 5800 that engine would have turned to 6800 but a stock rod engine would never put up with that under boost. id already smashed 3 engines NA at those revs it was never going to do it both me and jeff knew that but a forged good rod engine was out of my budget back then 

That blower on my silver XF would have made around 300rwhp it would lay 245 tyres on the ground in top gear and you did not have to rev it past 5000rpm the TQ that thing made was decent and that was a stock engine with a 218 camtech that car would have beaten my ghia easy and in a blaze of tyre smoke as well
 
i dont think you where a mamber of Xfalcon when i had this car but heres a picture of it
[/url]">http://

Well why wouldn't it if it is more efficient smoother and makes more power ? I can set my rockers in next to no time and checking them usually shows there still fine.
 
I don't know why people think it work or even harder when TBH it's just preparation IMO.
 
But if your not the type of guy who wants to be doing that then a HYD is for you but they still have to set properly aswell. Not just drop em in and tighten fuck out of everything. They need to be set correctly.    

Yep won 3 from 3 races and made it to the finial but dropped the ball and red lit so runner up at my first jamboree in all motor was a fun weekend even if it was a day longer then it was supposed to be!!

Cylinder head all done and cc'd. I now have 9.5:1 compression. Its is right up there for boost but there is a bit of overlap in the camshaft so it will be fine with low (7psi) boost and a good tune.
 

 
 
Bit of bling - yella terra platinum non-adjustables. All set up for nice preload on the lifters.
 

 
And fitted up with the Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold - WHY - well there is a bit more R&D to do on the blower kits to ensure their reliability. I am cool with that as there is more than what meets the eyes when you start to develop a commercial product. It has to work and work well - bit different if you are just doing it for yourself.
 
Good news is that this puts us back to plan A. The MSC will go through various 2 barrel carb combinations and then four barrel with the results documented in the thread. Really keen to hear this thing live.

Will still pump out the torque down low which will be perfect for what you want it for bred.

Worth sharing in the YouTube thread, not in an NA6 thread.

Any 6, not limited to crossies or even Fords.
 
That Torana is damn fast. What is in it?

This 1 is NAT ASP
 

 
Orange Stock 6 Torana runs a shot of spray so NOT NAT ASP.
 
Mossy has gone 11.0 120mph in his xflow Corty.

yes it's mate. 
It's looks now to be making more power in the car then on the dyno, we have tweeted the cam timing a few months ago I'd say it's making 15-20hp more then the xflow did now.

Well running all that nice motor he should piss the street fire off and get the programmable, then can run a dizzy that doesnt rely on springs like some friggin 15th century clock.
That info is still good, even without a programmable unit, just disregard the retard curve bit.
 
Thats all from me.

Cheers for the help sly(Y) 

will find a TFI dizzy for it and will change the gears to 3.45's 
 
heres a clearer image 

64 jets will be a good place to start. pump shooter size and how its setup will also play a big part in the flatspot it has

What is the static timing set at? this will also play a very big part maybe advance the timing up 4 or 6 degrees and see if its better (do not boot it like this you will damage the engine) your only seeing if it is a dissy issue over a carby problem don't load or rev the engine past say 2000rpm your just seeing if its better or not and if the dissy needs a tweak

The gears is another issue but how big is the cam? over 250@50 would be considered "large" if its a 230@50 it should be able to pull the gears althow not as well as say a set of 3.5 gears