Thom

can you mix and match heads ? like would it go on a 200 or bigger for eg, to make a high comp engine or are the ports/valves smaller on them also. 

What is the head casting no?, 170's had 2 heads the standard head had 170 behind the carb flange like this
And the high comp 170 had 170h cast into the head like this

Being a wide block I would have thought it would have 7 mains, at least that's what I'd always been told, wide blocks were first released in automatic xp 170's (the 200's were a narrow block with an adapter) and then all engines were wide block sometime in xr, your engine looks like it'll clean up OK, it'll give you an excuse to make a run stand

LOL, was thinking the same thing about the run stand. 😆. 

Clevo fits.
 
Just sayin' .....

Common thing is people think barra swap is easy and dead cheap. Till they keep finding stuff thats needed and how much they can not do. Equals expensive. 
 
Xflow needs ALOT to make power and be reliable but its rarely what people do and or use and then when results are not what they wanted there blame the engine, not the combination. 
 
Then people think go barra cos there poor decisions.TBH the barra platform is waaaaaaay better but it has so many more years development on it so it should be too. But people expect Barra type performanceon xflow money. Its not a thing.

Yeah true, but........... truck engine.
 
Pull a house.
 
10:1 pistons, lazy 400HP. 

Yeah I dunno, if you grind that hump out, it actually looks decent. The inlets might look big, but the shape doesn't look great (that's what she said). I reckon the inlets are the restriction here. It looks typically Ford of that era, with a ramp up on the floor and a sharp turn before the throat. Pretty much just 2V Clevos but slightly scaled up.

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They're a month older than me

Do NOT use second hand head bolts in a 4.0L

They are Torque to Yield, when you tighten them they are literally tightened until they are at stretching point.
Rule of thumb is any head bolt that is tightened to a degree setting instead of nM/ft lb should be replaced.

Most gasket manufacturers recommend new head bolts when replacing a head gasket regardless as well.

Hey Searley, Nason or similar like Permaseal, they are a decent set for not a lot of coins ,unless your going high hp ,no need for studs really.
ARP bolts for sure for flywheels etc or big end bolts.

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Now that's sorted, set at 10btdc on the XF gear and 0 degrees for the EL set up, that's what the ecu is set to think the base timing is at.


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Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.
 
Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders
 
 
 
 

Maybe the rich condition was causing a bad misfire which was showing as lean due to oxygen going through unburned?

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That's gold, quote of the year

I'm a bit of a meat-axe at this but I'll gladly share what I know, it's rare to find anyone who knows them and the ones that do don't like to share. With any luck the interballz will be better for having some knowledge on it preserved.

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First drive impressions: pretty good for an old dunga. My dad brain made the mistake of buying 57s jets... The ones that came in it were 57s too. In any case, it surged on light throttle so that told me that 57s are lean. So, I swapped in some 59s I had.

The secondaries were also way lean at 67 (wrong on a non-power valve block) so went right up to an 89 drill on some jets I didn't want. Apparently 87 is the correct secondary jet for this carby, so not far off. If it had a power valve in the secondary, you would subtract 8-10 jet sizes to get the right mixture under load.

I don't see the point in running a power valve in the secondary, you're always under power whenever they're open, so the power valve will always be open under load or closed when the secondaries are shut. Blanking it off and jetting up to compensate is the go I reckon. Less failure points to worry about.

Just got back from a test n tune, it has woken her up a bit, feels more lively than the street demon, but has sacrificed a little bit of bottom end torque and smoothness (probably from having older design boosters).

You can still feel a little bit of leanness when accelerating moderately, in that once the pump shot is done, the power drops off a tad. Still might need more jet but I'm happy with the WOT performance.

Now to see if it guzzles the juice or is somehow actually better than the street demon.

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I thought of that too, but gripping such an irregular shaped body in the vice isn't easy, it would be best to make up some kind of jig for it in that case. Knowing my luck, the body would jump out and Chernobyl itself in the cutter head or something dumb like that

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Ok into it today... After inspecting the threads in the body, I found another one mostly stripped. So I made the leap and punched all of the base screw holes out to take M6 Phillips head screws.
 
Firstly, I made sure all gasket surfaces are flat by hand-filing them down to an even finish, progress shots show how important this is due to casting warpage over time (possibly even during manufacture).
 

 

 

 

 
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That hole is for the exhaust srossover that runs under a stock intake for manifold heating/egr valve, if you're using an aftermarket intake they will be blocked off

Might be worthwhile looking up bill hooton on Facebook, he does barra looms & ecu's to suit sohc, he may be able to make one work on a crossflow

The best method is bare metal then prime with ppg 408 epoxy (in grey-green is the best version), then filler if required, reprime with the 408 epoxy to seal the filler, then start the process for painting (hifill, sanding, colour etc). You can do a panel at a time, the epoxy is 2 pak but does take a long time to dry so be aware of that but it's relatively cheap and the best on the market as far as the resto scene is concerned. I'd strip it with a poly disc for most of it, red brush what I couldn't reach, treat any rust with acid then seal it as above with epoxy. It will be good for a couple of years if done correctly like that and weather proof as well.

I use brass wire wheels on the angle grinder and also 120 grit flappy disks. these are faily fine and dont bite in too much. etch prime the bare metal, prime and seal it.

I use these from supercheap

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-nylon-filament-wheel-brush/550790.html

Use in the power drill it will take the rust off without biting into the metal like a grinder wheel. It will strip paint, filler, primer, rust and clean up metal for welding. I use them the most along with flap wheels and strip discs. You can do the red brush first or you can get some rainex rust buster acid from bunnings (phosphoric acid) and use a bit of steel wool or a scourer /scotchbrite to scrub any rusty metal. The acid is brilliant and will take off all the rust with a little elbow grease, back to clean metal, scrub on, wipe off, it will only react to bare metal (doesn't work through paint). Give it a sand when you are ready to paint it, as if it was just bare steel, sand with 180# start primer, slap some paint over and all good. Assuming you just want to patch it so it doesn't rust to pieces. If you want to respray the whole thing, strip a panel at a time, wash it down with acid, wash it down with metho or thinners, epoxy prime then start the repair/paint process.

Nope, 2V heads were an Aussie thing, because Ford US only saw V8s as being worthy of performance upgrades. To them, the 6 was the basic cooking model and if you want power, buy a V8. Pontiac tried to make a sweet OHC inline 6 but GM kinda self-sabotaged it because they didn't want it to upstage their V8 models in the end.

There were inline 6 Ford nuts over there who'd go seeking out Aussie 2V heads to put on their motors, but in the last few years a mob (Classic Inlines I think) has tooled up and made basically a replica of the Aussie head but in alloy.

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The V8 t5 isn't any better than a 6 cyl t5 as far as strength is concerned, I don't know why they are longer, there could be a bunch of reasons for it