mcfly94

I have seen it done in an xf Ute, but it would have been easier and less time consuming to pull the engine out

I like your style bruz... top marks, looks like a tradesman did it.

My comment was to Mcfly Chris.
I wouldn't be happy with that personally Chris, did you check the oil pump clearances?

You probably pick up a bit of pressure going the thicker oil mate but if your engine is happy and consistent then stick with it, I find the penrite more stable than any other oil so good choice.

How much oil pressure should a crossflow have on idle?

bloody oath the caster arm bushes are good!.
 
I have just bought a reco box with this mod, will make a huge different to my black slop box in their now.

Jamie.... you can't be serious. As Defective pointed out, there is no comparison between a built to order wheel in 2 or three piece and a piece of alloy junk. Sure, they're not for everyone but to call them a joke is not correct. 2k may not get you the look you're after. Thank God the serious car builders don't shun their cars in 12 slotters any more.

EL TFI dizzy,Impco vac carb unit on a holley base (of which I have both of brand new here and for sale ATM) Street fire MSD ($175 BN) or 6AL2 programmable ($430ish) if you want a advance curve.Use with a T5 and your set no computer or anything needed.

Thermo fan switch

I reckon someone should do up a detailed thread on porting a xflow head, would be interesting to see typical areas on the ports that need some work due to poor factory casting etc..
and clearly the idea of port work is too have the most flow and most direct shot to the cylinders so what is the most you can go? do they use an xray machine or something to check wall thickness?

I reckon someone should do up a detailed thread on porting a xflow head, would be interesting to see typical areas on the ports that need some work due to poor factory casting etc..
and clearly the idea of port work is too have the most flow and most direct shot to the cylinders so what is the most you can go? do they use an xray machine or something to check wall thickness?

Well it has been done before and the arguments of what to and how to will live forever.Cam choice based on head flow is the general consensus of how to do it but often flow figures and cam choice don't match and the car performs better than it should? Even shown in the latest Street Machine when Bill Porker changed valve shape for a better flowing design and lost HP.Went back to the original design that flowed less and should not have worked and the car picked up HP again. 
 
Just shows there's more than 1 way to skin a cat really...

buy white spirits ,not metho not anything but white spirits, use a hand pump spray bottle spray on then rub with tooth brush ,or brush of you choice and vacuum of will be touch dry in 10 minutes ,will remove grease ,food scum ,blow ,pretty much everything ,if its spilt milk pull seat out and use gerni 
 
and for the dog lover if your ferral mongrel has left its hair every were ,rub with hand briskly this will pull hair into small piles to vacuum off ,

i know that, but my car is almost starting exactly the same as before, just from upgrading my earths? probably start better then before when I actually tune the thing and upgrade the starter cable

i know that, but my car is almost starting exactly the same as before, just from upgrading my earths? probably start better then before when I actually tune the thing and upgrade the starter cable

oh gay!
 
sick mate!, (sick subwoofer), but I thought you liked making things for people

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package". 

Solids do make more power but most of the time you need to upgrade your valvetrain as well, also solids usually.require more maintenance than a hydraulic, really it depends what you want to do with the car

Ea trans computer, map,sensor, tps and Speedo sensor are required to run a btr stand alone

nope, computer needed to control about 5 different solenoids inside, cannot be done with a btr nor zf.
whats wrong with a c4? use dellow bellhousing

fitting a clevo to an xf is easy ,couple tricks die grind the engine mount plates, bolt holes 15 mils at the rear of all 4 holes ,then die grind the chassis hole 15mils at the front of each hole, with the heater pipes either pull then up and to the left without snapping them off ,or get the outlets modded at a radiator shop

Yep if u look at the first pic i put up that was exactly what i was measuring. Swapped arms from one to the other and the hole in the top bracket is the same distance from anywhere on the diff housing. I cant say if its the same in the body but.

OK!

I've been interested in finding one of those rear housings for a while. But couldn't remember what model diff they were on.
 
I don't understand how which arm is adjustable, will alter the handling effect. I haven't measured but they both look like they are the same distance from the lateral centerline of the diff. Have you got a link or can you explain with a bit more depth?