ando76

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end.  Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. 
 
Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. 
 
The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil.  This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving.
 
To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for.  FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications.  Basically they were built to last.  This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad.  This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure.  I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle.  In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). 
 
Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last.  So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!!  Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. 
 
If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps.  Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors.
 
Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.

ahh the 'fix it fairies' have been at work again - lucky you - they don't come out that often - especially in these parts....

Dizzy cap and rotor okay? Check dizzy shaft for play. Maybe it's allowing the rotor to hit the contacts???

That's a nice profile cam the 517.  Sounds like just what your after and I love the lift, perfect for these engines.  With a decent, exhaust, two barrel or four barrel manifold, good ignition and tune I reckon it would make a nice daily with a bit of a kick.  I would mate this cam to a four barrel manifold with a 465 Holley.  Best of both worlds there, economy when you want it and decent cfm when you stand on it.  Going four barrel mani will also allow you the option to upgrade to a bigger carb (600DP etc) and solid when and if you get sick of the hydraulic - but I reckon you won't get sick of that combo.  Just make sure you dial the cam in correctly - none of this dot to dot stuff.   
 
Be real interesting to see what this combo would do down the 1/4.   Come on Mcfly get off the computer and go and build this so we can find out.  That's a good thing about these forums - all these different combo's and we all get to see the results rather than having to build them all ourselves to find out. 

That's a nice profile cam the 517.  Sounds like just what your after and I love the lift, perfect for these engines.  With a decent, exhaust, two barrel or four barrel manifold, good ignition and tune I reckon it would make a nice daily with a bit of a kick.  I would mate this cam to a four barrel manifold with a 465 Holley.  Best of both worlds there, economy when you want it and decent cfm when you stand on it.  Going four barrel mani will also allow you the option to upgrade to a bigger carb (600DP etc) and solid when and if you get sick of the hydraulic - but I reckon you won't get sick of that combo.  Just make sure you dial the cam in correctly - none of this dot to dot stuff.   
 
Be real interesting to see what this combo would do down the 1/4.   Come on Mcfly get off the computer and go and build this so we can find out.  That's a good thing about these forums - all these different combo's and we all get to see the results rather than having to build them all ourselves to find out. 

snap sly

Thanks mate - yeah I understand what you mean now.  I have two 650 2 barrels and yes they are rare and odd looking.  We are limited to a 350 Holley in Mod prods - having said that they are a 350 only in body.  We modify them heavily with different base plates, metering blocks etc etc.  Mine is made up of 350,500 and 650 bits and was done by the late great Geoff TRUSCOTT or G.T. as he is better known.  He actually machined the hood out of the standard booster and on another G.T. carby I bought second hand recently he even extended them upwards to stop fuel 'pull over' at high rpm.
The annular boosters look very similar to mine but without all the holes.  Me thinks I will get a set and head off to the flow bench.  I don't thing they will be that much of a restriction.  thanks for the info and pictures.  always trying to build a better mouse trap....

Have as look at my 'wagon leafs into ute thread' in the suspension  section.  I used EF wagon springs and flipped the lower leaf.  Cost me $18 and about an hour and it brought the ute down nearly two inches.  Unable to comment on ride quality but it would have to be better.  as to load carrying well a wagon can take a fair bit of weight so I think the reduction would not be that huge, provided your not carrying around a tonne regularly - which I'm guessing your not if you want the tyres that close to the guards at static ride height.  Good luck whichever way you go.

Smart move. You will notice there is no thread titled 'my Holley won't idle properly and seems to lose tune all the time'. That's cause it doesn't f..ken happen.

Follow the manufactures recommendations and you can't go wrong. I use a AEM widebands on the speedway car and the burnout car. I put them a fair way down stream as that was the recommendation for leaded fuels (burnout car is on avgas) and high rpm use. Speedway car is on Meth and I have killed one sensor in the two years I've had it on.
 
Yes you will only be reading from one bank but that will be sufficient for the tuning you are after. There are kits available that have two sensors and are therefor more accurate but they are double the cost and really not worth it in your application. I would not be putting your sensor in the collector where both sides meet as I reckon you will have issues. Most factory stuff is close to the head so they must be onto something.
 
So to sum up I'd be sticking with the manufactures recommendations, at least then you will have some chance at warranty should you have a sensor failure. Suggestion only

Follow the manufactures recommendations and you can't go wrong. I use a AEM widebands on the speedway car and the burnout car. I put them a fair way down stream as that was the recommendation for leaded fuels (burnout car is on avgas) and high rpm use. Speedway car is on Meth and I have killed one sensor in the two years I've had it on.
 
Yes you will only be reading from one bank but that will be sufficient for the tuning you are after. There are kits available that have two sensors and are therefor more accurate but they are double the cost and really not worth it in your application. I would not be putting your sensor in the collector where both sides meet as I reckon you will have issues. Most factory stuff is close to the head so they must be onto something.
 
So to sum up I'd be sticking with the manufactures recommendations, at least then you will have some chance at warranty should you have a sensor failure. Suggestion only

My 5 cents worth. Look for a cheap 350/500 Holley, they are around. I scored one from a swap meet for $10. It is currently serving time (on loan) on a F100. Best ten bucks I ever spent. I've never had a Weber that idled properly after sitting. Yes they are a tremendous carby when they are working, but sadly they are Italian after all. Holley's are piece of piss to tune and are still selling well today because of that.
465 4 barrels are awesome as Clevo 120Y has highlighted but they are thin on the ground. Good luck

My 5 cents worth. Look for a cheap 350/500 Holley, they are around. I scored one from a swap meet for $10. It is currently serving time (on loan) on a F100. Best ten bucks I ever spent. I've never had a Weber that idled properly after sitting. Yes they are a tremendous carby when they are working, but sadly they are Italian after all. Holley's are piece of piss to tune and are still selling well today because of that.
465 4 barrels are awesome as Clevo 120Y has highlighted but they are thin on the ground. Good luck

My 5 cents worth. Look for a cheap 350/500 Holley, they are around. I scored one from a swap meet for $10. It is currently serving time (on loan) on a F100. Best ten bucks I ever spent. I've never had a Weber that idled properly after sitting. Yes they are a tremendous carby when they are working, but sadly they are Italian after all. Holley's are piece of piss to tune and are still selling well today because of that.
465 4 barrels are awesome as Clevo 120Y has highlighted but they are thin on the ground. Good luck

Ok so got a bit of spare time this arvo and pulled the old springs out. Unfortunately the front eye bolt had decided to weld (rust) itself to the metal sleeve of the bush meaning the trusty 5" grinder had to come out. I thought the sedan bolts I had at home would be sweet but they were a bit small so I have to run into town in the morning to rescue the bolts from the wagon.
I did dummy bolt it all up and yes it all fits like a glove. The EF wagon u bolts are bigger than the XF and the plates on the shackles are a little thicker than XF so a bit of a strength win there.
The oval front eye bush fits nicely into the XF recess as well, so basically it is a straight swap, just remember to keep the all the bolts from the EF donor if you are doing the swap in case your front eye bolt is screwed like mine.
I have sent Slydog some before photos and a photo of the difference between the two u bolts. He will post them up later as I am a techno gumby.
After shots will be up tomorrow PM as I have to retrieve the bolts and get it back down on it's wheels, after I do a few house chores to earn man minutes.

My gosh must be something they are putting in the chicken these days. I think we need some photos in this thread. Pictures of the springs or envys 16 year old? anyone????

OK so I have got the wagon springs out and flipped the bottom leaf as per the instructions in the suspension section. Drew it out on the ground and there is a 2.5inch difference after the flip. The ute comes off the trailer tomorrow for the spring swap. I've measured the mounting point on the EF and it this stage it looks the same as XF. Final measurements will be done tomorrow.
 
envyxf I will not be able to tell you what difference it makes to ride quality as my ute is built for one purpose which means I can not legally drive it on the road. I so want to but I reckon I'd get two blocks before someone complained.
 
Stay tuned for result of this experiment. I seriously hope I haven't induced axle tramp, but I think the flipped bottom spring will stop this and conversation with my local suspension guru have confirmed this.

OK so I have got the wagon springs out and flipped the bottom leaf as per the instructions in the suspension section. Drew it out on the ground and there is a 2.5inch difference after the flip. The ute comes off the trailer tomorrow for the spring swap. I've measured the mounting point on the EF and it this stage it looks the same as XF. Final measurements will be done tomorrow.
 
envyxf I will not be able to tell you what difference it makes to ride quality as my ute is built for one purpose which means I can not legally drive it on the road. I so want to but I reckon I'd get two blocks before someone complained.
 
Stay tuned for result of this experiment. I seriously hope I haven't induced axle tramp, but I think the flipped bottom spring will stop this and conversation with my local suspension guru have confirmed this.

OK so I have got the wagon springs out and flipped the bottom leaf as per the instructions in the suspension section. Drew it out on the ground and there is a 2.5inch difference after the flip. The ute comes off the trailer tomorrow for the spring swap. I've measured the mounting point on the EF and it this stage it looks the same as XF. Final measurements will be done tomorrow.
 
envyxf I will not be able to tell you what difference it makes to ride quality as my ute is built for one purpose which means I can not legally drive it on the road. I so want to but I reckon I'd get two blocks before someone complained.
 
Stay tuned for result of this experiment. I seriously hope I haven't induced axle tramp, but I think the flipped bottom spring will stop this and conversation with my local suspension guru have confirmed this.

yes the front bush is oval in shape on the EF - not round like the XF, but as best as I can work out the mounting points are the same.  I did not get around to the swap yesterday, I fitted up the shift kit into the c4 instead and had a trial run (see videos section).  I intend on doing this on Tuesday after taking some measurements of the front spring mount on the EF and XF.  Would like to have done it today but the convertor seal is pissing out fluid after yesterdays effort, guess that's what happens when autos sit in a shed for years and then are pulled into service. 
 
I will let you know how I go with the spring change but I'm not expecting any problems as Lord F has already done this.
 
Yes Sly it will be going down at the back.  At this stage I'm looking at flipping the bottom spring on the wagon leaf pack and see how that goes.  I actually want it to sit lower than the front just for that drag look whilst doing skids. 

Thanks team.  Looks like I'll be a busy today swapping spring packs. 
 
Gerg - from reading the flipping leaves thread they suggest you remove the smallest spring and flip it to the top for a 1.5" drop.  second spring drops it 4.5". 

See if you can find an XC 250. they had a tapered pushrod of the correct length. They are much stronger than XF units. I have also seen these pushrods in an XE?? I'll grab one tomorrow and try and post a picture. I stress that this is a budget option but they do work. You can get a standard XF pushrod and bend them by hand, something you can't do with the tapered ones.
bent pushrods usually occur in engines with poor valve springs or incorrect poundage springs. I have a set of standard xf pushrods in my flat tappet burnout motor which I ping to 6200 and they don't bend because the springs are right, Roller rockers also help to.

I just pull no. 1 plug and stick my finger/thumb over the plug hole and turn it until you can feel the compression stoke. Pure laziness on my behalf - easier to undo one plug then 8 rocker cover bolts.

Yes just like the chev balancers do. a spacer can be made up like Jason did or u can clearance the timing cover to suit. 
 
Crazy - My current set up is the EST triggering the 6AL2 then a HVC2 coil.  I have the rev limiter set at 6600 and I give it a rap twice every lap of the speedway track for 10 laps in heats and up to 40 laps in a feature. 
 
My theory on the spark scatter is the inconsistencies in signal caused by harmonics running through the dizzy at these sustained high revs.  my engines run from 2600rpm at the start up to 6600 at the end of the straight and down to 4000rpm in the turns, depending on track, traffic etc. They are certainly not shopping trollies. 
 
I could go the same way as Wazzy and use the universal MSD crank trigger set up but I am just trying to see if it can be done using factory components.  Call me weird but I just get my kicks that way. 

notice how the car tracked straighter with the ET streets as well.  less sidewall deflection??/