Jonathan Mark Davidson

i didnt think ford would have door handles left! whats the currant cost on one if you don't mind me asking?
and yes it is along with 90% of the aftermarket handles out their now
 
i only mentioned the pivot swap for people like my self who have a pile of door handles laying around and nearly no cash

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

that wont work as a xg/h is a push to unlock where a xd/e/f is a pull to unlock i'll get photos as i have a few broken ones i need to fix

i've got an alloy on in the xd and never had an issue even with a few big burnouts and hi speed runs

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

Handily, the pivots on today's new Genuine Ford x-series door handles, come with the holes pre-stamped for either XD-XF or XG-XH.
Just swap over the correct plastic insert, and you're away!

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

Log motor - (or more correctly, log HEAD motor) -  the 1V pre-crossflow inline six's, which have the intake cast as a part of the cylinder head.
 
Those head/intake combo's suit single barrel stromberg carbies
- I like the strombergs, cause you can rebuild them for about $20.00.

Yeah, never thought of that mate, the log manifold would make it all sit even lower under the bonnet.

I don't think the sumps are interchangeable at all between the 2 engines. Ask Tim (p100ute) he knows the answer because he has looked at it.

I would only worry about changing timing cover and front drive accessories of you wanted to use a mechanical fuel pump (ford motorsport sell a standard rotation pump and pulleys to suit efi timing cover and balancer it you have next to no accessories or just want to run v belts)just remember efi and early windsors use different weighted balancers, and using the wrong one can result in a broken crank, I know a few people who have tried to set up a btr 4 speed to run standalone but none of them have been truly successful, in the long run for a 4 speed auto an adapter plate and a turbo 700 out of a 5.0 vn would be more reliable than an aod ( plus locally available parts and auto shops around here know how to build them) getting headers/ extractors will be the hard part

Don't do it Bear, he just wants ya car parts...... thats how the New Zealanders get ya in........ "free mods! free mods!" then they strip ya X series for parts , cause they don't have any there. We're onto you NZ.......
 
Jack.

highly agree but dought it would ever happen and we had the worse car laws out of any British colony yer they have to pit the vehicles every year but look at the mods just Brittan and nz have aloud on the road

i've done it, the fuel guage is usually the only thing that wont work without mods.(providing you have wired it correctly)
 
i'm pretty sure i still have a full conversion stored at My mates place that i'd sell.   its the EA S pack cluster(or XG S pack) with XG mount, facia and adaptor loom.(i modded the Fuel guage so its plug and play into XF non ghia dash)
 
what issues do you have? i put diagrams on one of the forums once link here to one thread http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39634-ed-fairmont-instrument-cluster-into-xf/
 
 
 
i dont check in the forums that often lately, but will reply when i get time.

schweet i now have a plan....

Had a look at belts today, the alternator, waterpump and crank belt on the XG 4L is a Bosch 3PK895, so 895mm long.
I found that Bosch also make a 3PK865 (30mm shorter), so I'm going to grab one as soon as I can and give it a shot.
I'll post how it goes, as it might be a neater solution for others that wind up in the same position.
Thanks for the help with it fellas.

have you thought about swapping to e series engines management, better ecu, econmy, better power, ditch the afm, but still keep all your polished gear

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Thanks Steve, great info as always mate!
I actually referred back to your thread lastnight and noticed your engine uses a different belt/pulley setup to mine, that allows the alternator to sit more vertically than the EA-ED and XG motors do.
I checked out the link you put up, but the way they cut that rail was a bit too full on for my liking.
Want to try keep it as neat and factory looking as possible...
Maybe I can heat up the steel with my little pen torch where it hits the rail and try shape that section enough to clear it.
It's got to be the neatest solution next to swapping the belt setup completely to the later one (if that's even possible).
Another solution might be to find a slightly shorter belt so I can get tension on the belt before it gets close to the rail.
It's fustrating because I'm getting fairly close to firing it up now that I understand the wiring better and the motor and T5 box are all bolted up properly...
 
HBWC, I had XF mounts in previously, they are a major no go with the drop down manifolds, and actually sit lower than the XG mounts.
Passenger side mount sits much higher to lean the manifold away from the tower, and drivers side is also a mm or 2 higher than the XF mounts.
 
Outback Jack, I'm already using complete XG mounts, top and bottom, and this is the issue I now face.
Mounts are not going to change anything at this point, the engine is in the best possible position, other than the alternator problem, it sits exactly as it should.
The difference between my XF and a XG is just the XG front rail, it looks like Ford completely redesigned it for the 4 litre engines.
It strangely appears that the later EF-EL engines are actually more suitable to do this conversion than the motor and associated parts out of the XG that followed the XF.
Other than the XG swaybar, fuel tank and (possibly) wiring looms, the rest of the swap should be done using the later EF-EL motors with the XF engine mounts in place.
Thanks for the suggestions anyway guys.
Always appreciated.
Jay.

Yeah I'm going to do more testing at a later date, both tests were done on port number 4 which for the BBM is right in front of the throttlebody, I will see if the BBM is even flow wise across all the cylinders as I will with the log manifold. Will keep you posted when I get to it.

i got some speedway boys to do mine today. we used xe dizzy and a 4.0 dizzy took the gear off the xe dizzy. and then put the 4.0l gear on the xe one marked out the hole and drilled it. then stuck the 4.0 gear on not hard but gaz got me paranoid. so i ended up getting the speedway boys to show me how its done. they been running this in the 4.0l for ages run many races at hitting the 7,000rpm mark apparently. also stuck xe coil on it bolted right on. thing is with xe dizzy cap and aussie speed manifold you need to grind the tips off on the doodads(cant think of the name) that the spark leads connect to just enough to put the leads in a bit further so the cap and leads can fit underneath the manifold.

1 step closer to having a 4.0l thats just plug and play into a xf.

haha i got the manifold im to far into it to just back out and go efi now. and i want it to be plain and simple cant be fucked with a whole new load of potential electrical problems to happen down the road.
the thing is i hate computers
and im not a fan of efi i do respect it but its not my cup of tea. neither is petrol my cup of tea and gas efi is farken way to expensive for someone in my boots to do