Ando81

That’s really cool Gary. Thanks for sharing the pic and the story that goes with it

This thread is quite old, but it caught my attention.
I have a 300ci factory EFI six in my 1971 F100. I transplanted it in 1998 - ousting the original 240.
It's a 4.9 litre, 4" bore with 3.98" stroke. Armour guard brought 6 into Queensland during Expo in '88. They were fitted into F250's. 
4 were ultimately crushed would you believe? Two survived - I have one and I believe the other went to a South Australian farmer who removed the EFI. 
Just though that may be of interest to some.
Cheers.

Fucking poor form when they rip off anyone mate, let alone a pensioner. When you don’t have a clue, go to Lew’s

I’m glad you found the problem but I’m worried about the possible damage I wonder if it’ll perform ok with the new ecu now that it’s reading correctly and doing everything ok.

Now that you mention this i seem to remember having similar problems with a mates xg when we put an el ecu in it, from memory the fix was to put an xh non bbm tps on, they read the same voltage as an ef/el tps but spin the opposite direction from a bbm equipped car,in short the log manifold tb opens the opposite direction from a bbm tb but i think (not 100% memory is a bit hazy) the el tps runs in a different range from the ed style and earlier

Ba front end is in

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That’s very similar to mine dean. My sedan has some chrome under the bonnet so I got it made out of stainless as I couldn’t weld stainless at the time. I made my ute one out of mild steel and painted it white

Similar mate, I measured the angle of which the pipe comes out of the firewall and welded a slightly larger piece of pipe coming off the support plate at the same angle so that the plate and pipe fits snugly over the old hole and the cable pushes force over the new pipe and the steel all at the same time.

That’s very similar to mine dean. My sedan has some chrome under the bonnet so I got it made out of stainless as I couldn’t weld stainless at the time. I made my ute one out of mild steel and painted it white

I think Paul is the funnier older brother

Sam Simmons' older brother who has more hair

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Keep the updates coming mate, we’re keen to see what’s causing the issue

OK, today I'm doing the fuel filter and changing the plugs.
Will then take her for a drive and see if that makes any difference.
 
It's got to be fuel or spark that's causing the hesitation/missing.
I don't think it's the plugs but they are due for a change.
 
I'm leaning more towards fuel filter, but could be breaking down coil or lead, dizzy cap or rotor fault.... and at the worst the tfi or a fault in the electrics, will check the injectors as well if needed.
 
Start with the simple-cheaper things first.
 
Will be back with results after I've taken her for a run.
 
 
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Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors -
 
Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi)
Leave for a few hrs, and results should show. 🙂
 
 

A few people with XG Outbacks will probably be looking for new shocks at some stage, this info will save you some time finding replacements.
Thanks to Troy at Monroe Australia sales for the great info and service. Champ!
 
The Original XG Outback shocks are:
Front- Monroe T.V.E. 848-18045 AA
Rear- Monroe T.V.E. 848-18080 AA
 
They were a Monroe Magnum shock.
These part numbers/shocks no longer exist.
 
New replacements are:
 
Monroe Gas Magnum TDT
 
Fronts are same as all XG front shocks.
They are 10mm shorter in travel than original Outback spec which Monroe says is OK.
Rears are longer and NOT standard height XG shock.
 
FRONT SHOCKS.
Part no. 16-0101..
, which is now obsolete but you can still buy these online.
The new model is not available at the time I wrote this, but new part no is 331036MM.
Compressed and Extended lengths, measured from base plate to base of top stud where first washer sits, are:
Compressed: 230mm
Extended: 355mm
 
REAR SHOCKS.
Part no. 16-0207
Current part number, plenty of stock.
Compressed and Extended lengths,
measured from base of each stud where first washer sits, are:
Compressed: 296mm
Extended: 496mm
 
This info will help people get the appropriate heavy duty shocks for their Outbacks from Monroe or use the specs to size up replacement Koni , Bilsteins or coil overs.
 
Hope this helps some peeps.
 
Outback Jack.
 
 
 
 
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dont rev it too high for a while
it will either come good.. or it won't.. 
crossflows can tick away for yonks.. 
call it a TICKford enhanced crossflow.. hear it ticking ... TICK ford.. lol.
 
there's ways it can be fixed, if your Dad was a mechanic he'd know the potential of why it's ticking.. (wiped cam, gunked up or worn lifter it the most likely, can be bodged by grinding the rocker shaft post so it takes up the slack(if you were doing this you'd get a spare one.. ...incase the motor was being fixed later, otherwise you add a shim to set the pre load)

Sounds like it's buggered........ They should spin (but be firm to turn) and the wind should take over as your speed increases, to reduce drag on the engine. Sounds like yours is locked on and pushing against the wind. You only need the fan at the lights, or in a shopping centre, could delete it and run a Thermo?  Twin EF or AU is common. 

I have used him good price and service

Rob Mills (not the singer) from NRAP (ebay ID)  (aka the old north Ringwood auto parts store) but now located in Nutfield vic,  carries the WASP branded stuff along with other reputable brands (roadsafe etc), and is excellent to deal with either direct or via ebay, prices are good,  always helpful, super quick postage,  so yeah no need to deal with crap products/suppliers

I once had a mechanical pump shit itself on a Sunday arvo, had to call a mate to come rescue me.

I had a Goss mechanical on my 302, the built-in barbs seemed to cause the body to bend really easily when tightening up the hose clamps. It just seemed cheap and tinny. Never failed, but I deleted it anyway and put in a Facet chunka-chunka pump just out of the tank. I like it because it gives a definite warning when fuel is getting low (by going chunka-chunka a lot louder than normal)

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Its like the game guess who.
Dose your diff have solid disks?
Yes.
Is your diff a EA/EB wagon diff?
Flips down picture.

Don’t feel bad mate, wasn’t your fault

Yeah I felt so bad after you told me it was no good 😕 
 
Well i have 3 rocker covers he can play with to get it right haha. one of them is a leaded (no knock sensor or ISC valve) cover, so im not worried if he stuffs that up getting it right. then i have 2 unleaded ones inc. the one on the original engine still in the car. 

Ha ha, I wasn’t sure if it was you or Campo that I got it off. I think if the welder has too many amps going into the weld it is more likely to make the weld pull the surrounding material out of shape. Good luck, hopefully this time it works out nicely for you

Wow @gerg looks like you caught that in the nick of time. Good work on figuring out the shims, that'll definitely set you up nicely. 
 
For the aircraft, it was a Gardan Minicab built in 1969 and powered by a 1940 model Continental A65-8; an air-cooled 170ci flat four for non aircraftians. It had twin Bendix magnetos and no starter, so I had to hand prop it. Because it was a low winger I stood in front of the prop. Generally started second or third flip, stupidly satisfying!