ronny

It will be the fan, poor airflow
Clutch fans were put on from factory for a reason
So to replicate that volume of air, good elec fan/s are needed eg el, au fans or aftermarket fan/s with WIDE BLADES

Ha ha love it, I go camping a bit in wet tracks and the lsd is just so much better for traction and a lot easier to steer if you wanna have some fun in the mud.

I know it would be a pain in the arse but to make sure there are no bits floating around I would open it up

I know it would be a pain in the arse but to make sure there are no bits floating around I would open it up

Will need engineering as no xf vehicle came out with a v8.Your best tip would be to talk to an engineer in your local area.

Any motor with solid roller and lots of idling/street miles = sore lifters
But now they have the bushed lifters (well Isky has been making bushed for a long time)
These bushed lifters (rather than the needle pin bearing) last a long long time

ive got a hurst promatic 2 waiting nice simple classy but ratchets so should suit it well

A stock one yes but not if its built right
I'd recommend a well built C4
 
As xdwagooon said, shifter is personal
If the trans is set up for "chuck it in D and drive" standard shifter is fine
If you get a manual valve body, a hurst or B&M is more user friendly (lots to chose from)

Ive got this kit and very happy with it
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=150
I liked this one cos the display is very small
I plug in a lap top at the drags and log my run
Too hard to watch the guage at WOT lol

Ive got this kit and very happy with it
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=150
I liked this one cos the display is very small
I plug in a lap top at the drags and log my run
Too hard to watch the guage at WOT lol

If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp.
 
If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head.

They do fit, but you have to drill holes on the ends and make a bracket for the centre mount.

Engine out, dont learn the hard way
It will always leak if you do it in the car

Are we sure the diff mounts for the top arms are in the same position?

Hey q, personally I would go fixed,lower control arm (boxed would be better than standard) with an adjustable top arm ( I realise harder to make) the top arm would greater effect pinion angle and your roll centre due to the higher load they take over the lower arm, btw what diff cover are you running? Some au's have the Watts link mount 10mm lower down which also lowers you centre of gravity/ roll centre an make a cast improvement in the twistys & drive out of a corner/ launch

Just gave him a call, top bloke and really switched on
He's got some great ways to do things especially with xe (and he owns an xd)
Gotta check out his website in the custom exhaust bit!

Yeah mate, give it a go.
 
I reckon save your pennies on the tube bender, they'll crush the tubes causing a restriction
 
Buy a crap load mandrel bent bits and cut/join them up as needed

Bolt straight through the guts to stop as much flexing.