ronny

That's right, I asked them 10 years ago and they wouldn't do it

Yeah they are very heavy and the aftermarket blocks even heavier again... The later blocks (385 series) could be stroked alot more than the factory chev/chrysler BB's giving them an advantage nowadays with the better top end stuff available

I think i like clevos again "There's no substitute for...."

Its done over 11,000 miles with over 100 passes down the 1/4 I do run a HV pump BUT i do have a pretty big sump Not sure why you are so revved up, most have agreed with you But you are not the only person in the world that can build a race motor with endurance Most race engines will use a HV pump. Why?

Really it depends on how much clearance the engine builder set the engine up with By the sounds of it this motor is built to rev a bit harder than stock? I personally would prefer to accept dizzy gear wear while the oil is cold and thick Then when its all stinking hot with thin id prefer more flow A HV oil pump only pumps about 15% to 20% more oil than a stock pump does So that would mean that your stock pump is only 15% to 20% away from sucking your oil pan dry? Dont think so Just my opinion ​With a stock motor, standard pump definitely

You'll be fine with that pump You have a bigger volume sump too which is good When the oil gets hot and thin you'll be glad you got a HV pump You might get a bit of dizzy gear wear but worth it IMO

Thats a good result Cubes, HP, rpm @ idle, compression, timing @ idle, fuel used, auto or manual, etc effect heat created I removed my shroud, worked better The SPAL fans i have there is a recess in the fan housing to run a rubber strip to seal the fan to the radiator So the fan housing makes its own shroud Kind of like this, i have the older style where the rubber is round http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m4jbERooHeCyVNI-5bbg6_Q.jpg

Always knew it was 2 core James (as advertised) Didnt think he made a 4 core like xfish ordered It is now being proved less cores cool better than more Only thing i was disappointed in was quality for the price

Always knew it was 2 core James Didnt think he made a 4 core like xfish ordered

I cut open my desert cooler triple flow

I have never had problems in the past thrashing, moving It was the idling and not moving was the problem

What Gerg said, but id just not worry about the PCV Chances of getting pulled over, small Chances of bonnet to be popped once pulled over, smaller Chances the cop realises the PCV is missing, smallest And if you get busted, just fix it then

Sounds like you are getting pretty close Lean spot at constant throttle no problem High 11 still bit rich for wot, if you can get it to 12.5 to 13 it will be quicker and better economy Takes a fair while to set a carby up close to perfect Are you just watching the gauge while wot? I found that hard so I velcro'd my phone to the steering wheel and recorded it Then I could watch the replay and break down what's exactly happening in slow mo

4 core? Did you specially ask for that? At the time i bought it he only had 2 core (but large 2 core) with the triple flow Alot of new cars now have very wide single core Apparantly works better with the heat transfer with the way the air flows past the cores Be interesting to see if the trend carries to the aftermarket world

Thats similar to what some pro burnout cars do to have a higher volume of coolant ie longer to heat up

Yours looks good mate but i prefer the brushed alloy look Nothing chrome or polished on my car Yeah he is not bad hey, sells the dream lol Here's one example, lots more http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/331389758067?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps

Thats odd, maybe there is a delay with the sensor If you had a lap top hooked up plotting AFR, you should see a rich spike when you stab it

Thats fine, just needs a light sand and a polish Take it back and get them to do it

Smartest thing they did was sponsor Gary Meyers the burnout king They got alot of business from that

Well at last i gave my old Desert cooler crap radiator the flick Chucked the $165 jobby in last night It runs cooler than before, lets see how long it lasts Very happy

As sly said, how long at WOT cos the extra fuel from the squirters takes a bit to clear Also i still wouldnt go smaller than primaries with secondary main jets, id try to reduce the fuel from the PV circuit first

Yeah higher float level gives fuel quicker I play with the level a bit on mine at the drags Prob not a good idea, when your secondaries are working you are getting a fair bit of air coming in So you need the extra fuel to compensate

Yes you are right Sorry i just saw his first post and replied when it was 17:1 at idle and 10:1 WOT Sould have read more No offence to LJDB but someone with these questions should not touch air bleeds

You need more fuel in the primaries (can do this with idle mixture screw) And less in the secondaries (You can do this with jets) Dont muck around with air bleeds YET Playing with air bleeds can do some very strange things

Sealing the sump properly after is the hard bit doing this in the car