ronny

If you are going the alloy parth give a cheap fleebay one a go. got one in one of my v8 cortys and unlike the aussie ones thay fit in place of a factory one

worth a shot for $300 if there shit binn it and move on mines working good  

If possible you want the cable and return spring at opposite points
Pulling and returning from the same point/end can wear out the shaft/carby

So right !!!   I've seen so many guys trying to jumpstart a car with those $20 cables from Supacrap, when I lend them my welding cables, their jaws drop.
All sorts of excuses, .......bad connection, battery is flat, blah, blah, blah... 

That sounds like about 300 amp. You can never go too big except if your limitation is cost and weight. At that distance I'd twin it (if you have enough) to allow for voltage drop. A bloody decent set of jumper leads will often mean the difference between working and failing. You'll break your back carrying them though. Same goes for batt cables (and batteries)... Just get the biggest, dumbest meat-axe battery and cables and you're already ahead.

Put it this way, it isn't that hard to take out, just screws, nuts & disconnections.Getting it back in exactly right first time can be a lot trickier!!

I know it double the price but a brand new Kaaz lsd is $1100-$1200.The kaaz unit will outlast a factory rebuilt lsd by a long way and put up with more punishment.

If you like doing a few skids with a LSD... make sure you get the wheels spinning before you turn the steering wheel

If you like doing a few skids with a LSD... make sure you get the wheels spinning before you turn the steering wheel

Fixed!

Kents closed about a year ago

Ants has ZERO shame guys...get use to it LOL.Quad cam engine in early model sounds like a awesome but full on build though.

Xw xy are narrower than xa onwards.

^^^ For sure, gotta know where you're at

Here is my youngest boy, he looses his mind everytime there is a race car in the workshop LOL. He knows all the blokes names as well and everytime the phone rings he says "is that Wombat or Wolfy or Corky?" "Are they bringing the race car over?" He can't get enough I have to drive him around in the front yard in them HAHAHA

Pump needs a relief
Some people pump the fuel all the way to the motor (reg) and return from there
I prefer to have the relief right after the pump back to the tank so the fuel heats up less (not near hot engine bay)

Just plug the line and make it disappear as though it goes somewhere

Just plug the line and make it disappear as though it goes somewhere

Get some long bolts, wind them in till they bottom with some red high temp loctite then cut the heads off and now you have studs. Studs = 100x better then the bolts and it will cost a fraction of getting an actual stud kit.
 
Spring washer should be okay, What temperature does spring metal soften at? I do not think the flange of the manifold will get that hot?
 
Don't over tighten, Torque the bolts/studs. It's alloy it's soft and will expand at a different rate to the 8.8 grade steel bolts so it's best to obey the torque settings.

I took the alt back and they checked it out It was working, just wasnt exciting cos the little globe i use as the exciter had popped, newbie error by me Anyway they opened it up and it had heat damage pretty bad which means it was working too hard So i bought a new bosch alt 120A which produces less at low revs so i will need to turn this one a bit faster (changing to serpentine at last...) Below is the output of the 2 alts as tested while i watched  

Just plug the line and make it disappear as though it goes somewhere

If you google a tap drill chart it will show you a variety of tap sizes and what drill size to use, eg for a tap 10mm1.5 thread you use an 8.5mm hole and the tap cuts the 1.5 mm out to make it 10mm. Hope this simplifies things for you

The most important thing about tapping a thread is to ensure that the hole that you drill to tap is the correct size to suit the thread size and depth, maybe ask an experienced person for the correct sized drill bit to suit the tap that you intend to use a lot of people drill the hole too big and the thread doesn't have deep grooves and this makes the thread easy to strip.

Did that too, just make sure you dont forget to flick it on lol
That switch always stays on in my car, id rather a slower warm up with all the water at an even temp
I prefer to just leave the fans off for a quicker warm up

^^^ yes good point gerg about timing, very true
My big block can run a bit over 40 deg total (with 98 fuel and not very hot weather)
Learning what detonation sounds like is very important for car enthusiasts
That way you can find where your motor wants the timing

My Clevo is running EF fans at half speed, only got warm on the hottest of days. Any other time, sits bang on 1/2 way up the gauge.<br /><br />I am running about 35 deg advance at idle (MSD programmable) and it makes a big difference to the temp. I'd give the timing a bump up to 12 and run vac advance from the manifold, not from the carby (ported). Clevos can handle 40 deg total, so keep that in mind too. Factory timing is way retarded in my opinion. They have to allow for all conditions: ie towing a tri-axle caravan across the Nullabor using shit fuel with the aircon going. Nobody actually does that so you have a lot of leeway in adjusting the base timing up to what your engine wants, especially if it has a bit of a cam.