NZXD

Got it all in the car and running, alot of time spent on the laptop getting all the systems setup. LOL now the engine idles do low may alternator needs a smaller pulley because i don't have any voltage at 800rpm!!!!!
 

Globes are from the right era anyway, they'll still have the close to original look, like they do on XYs.

20/50 was all I used.

I deal in selling oils as a wholesaler.
 
I use a universal tractor transmission hydraulic oil. Its illegal (well here in NZ) to be used on the road as it has no colour. But it works great.
 
Is equivalent to a 10w30 (SAE30 pretty much) Benefits are that is has a wet brake additive which is a friction modifier. Gets those synchros gripping real well.
 
Another option is motorbike engine oils that are made for the wet clutch as well. Has the same friction modifiers.
 
Next best option would be a GL4 75w90.

I ran straight 80-90w in the race car - but as gerg pointed out the shift is not pretty.  I only ever changed from 1st to 2nd so it was not a big issue but in a road car it would be.
 
I went to Valvoline Durablend 80-90w gear oil and the shift improved out of sight and the oil stayed cleaner longer.  The actual physical weight between the mineral oil and the Durablend was noticeable. 

I bit the bullet and ordered some pinchweld seal from rare spares, $10 per meter.
 
Thanks for your help BigCav.

I've used the Clarks rubber ones and if you trim em right the join isn't even noticeable. I start at the bottom edge in the centre then tap it onto the pinch weld with a rubber mallet paying particular attention to the corners making sure they are in place as far as they can go. Once you get down to the join cut the seal ever so slightly bigger than you want and you should be able to with a little force it should slot in there and be virtually invisible if you trim it neatly. A bit of Loctite or super glue will have it finished. 

I know it sounds funny but try kingswood country they got a bit of ford stuff

I used that black window sealant mastic because it stays fllexible & it's the right colour

loctite 424 should be used, little tip is to also put a little bit of vacuum line inside the blister at the join that goes into both sections of rubber, glue that in and youll get a lot more strength at the join
 
http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802625912833

Just a teaser mapping at 5000
 

i always thought XD-E-F-G are more or less the same. They're a bit longer and you need to trim to fit anyway.

Been a very long time since I had anything xflow powered. But way back in the day I had an automatic xe esp with the efi motor. Was pathetic with the auto. Swapped to a single rail and better. Next was 2 1/2 zorst and extractors and better again. Blew the diff up and swapped to a 3.23 centre and that was probably the best seat of my pants mod by a mile. Being an efi motor and in the mid 90's no one had a clue on how to tune a modded one so crow recommended a cam for it that would run ok with the factory computer. I've got no idea on specs but it idled like a stocker but made crazy torque for the nothing motor that it was. Didn't rev at all but it didn't need to either. Drove like a stocker and blew the doors off plenty of heros in their v6 commies and 3.0 vl's and 253's Then it developed an appetite for distributor gears and I got the shits with it and went to a clevo! Was a fun car with the torquey lazy crossie though.

Hope the guy is happy with that result, I would be.

ive done this easy as 4brrl manifold ,carb, low pressure fuel pump ,leave the dissy just wire the red with green tracer to ignition power

GM and Donny don't have fuel vaporizing issue's with there Windsor's as they jet to suit.Pretty well anyone who "owns" a healthy Windsor would already be doing so I'd suggest.But the problem is still there on even on blown cars that have a butterfly per inlet valve.That said the fix is already known and for $3 per jet compared to a new cam and lifters @ minimum I know what I would be doing.
 
This style cam can and would suit Nascar and such with there throttle body EFI and base plate carby combo's for different tracks but I think Comp are years behind what the well traveled Windsor fan has already accounted for.I'm sure Roush,Joe Gibbs and such would have some "very" trick manifolds that already compensate for this aswell.

i have gt40ps on my ed xr engine. they've been opened up quite a bit. bigger valves and lots of porting. I also run an au lower/upper manifold which has been port matched to the heads. 1 inch spacer for the plenum. edelbrock 70mm egr and tb. au xr s3 maf. BA 6 cyl injectors (which are 29LB). Pushing almost 200rwkw. Opened up the engine quite nicely. Oh, its J3 chipped too.

Hey man, I had two new sets, one being replacement set and the others that I had when it had blocks. The factory size work ok and have sufficient thread etc.
 
I have now put the two inch blocks in just for shits n giggles and it's loooooooow.

You can get hurricane 4 into 1 headers to suit 302w into X series, I have a set and cost me around $700nz. I did originally test fit when I had gt40p heads on my AU11 XR8 engine in my XD and no issue with the plug angle. The yanks go on about it a lot in the fox body mustangs.
 
You could use the horrid press bend stock manifolds but they are extremely restrictive.
 
Any clevo mounts and pedestals from XA onwards will work for the motor.

You can get hurricane 4 into 1 headers to suit 302w into X series, I have a set and cost me around $700nz. I did originally test fit when I had gt40p heads on my AU11 XR8 engine in my XD and no issue with the plug angle. The yanks go on about it a lot in the fox body mustangs.
 
You could use the horrid press bend stock manifolds but they are extremely restrictive.
 
Any clevo mounts and pedestals from XA onwards will work for the motor.

You can get hurricane 4 into 1 headers to suit 302w into X series, I have a set and cost me around $700nz. I did originally test fit when I had gt40p heads on my AU11 XR8 engine in my XD and no issue with the plug angle. The yanks go on about it a lot in the fox body mustangs.
 
You could use the horrid press bend stock manifolds but they are extremely restrictive.
 
Any clevo mounts and pedestals from XA onwards will work for the motor.

Yeah mate, a few bits not going to plan. All sorted now, so hopefully be back on track next week.

I found this while trolling YouTube. Its not a barra, but a coyote fitted with a carb, cams locked, and some fancy ignition system.
 
Plus it sounds mean and pulls some good numbers for a NA 302.
 

"pull Jesus from the cross"....classic saying.