FORD_MAN

Thanks Gregaust, Yeah I probably got confused between some of the parts in it and he had there, I'm a nuffy when it comes to auto's   
I'm sure He got parts from PTC, it would be the hi tuff input, Had a R servo before, now has the purple cover sonnax sevro,
so it has 6 clutch, and chrome moly hub. I wish I had 600rwhp maybe one day.

Ford_Man.. That description of what you have is so mixed up it hurts me to read it .
 
Transgo rebuild kit?  Transgo make shift kits for valvebody's . not rebuild parts .
 
Manual Valve Body?? A Transgo stage 3 kit maybe to convert to manual?? Or maybe reading further on I think you have parts from PTC? One of their MVB? If so good choice
 
R series billet servo?? No such thing. R servo is a factory servo on a lot of Clevo C4's . A very good servo all the same . The billet servo are either based on a H servo  ( P.A or TCI ) or the most popular being the Sonnax brand with the purple cover being based on a C servo .
 
4 pinion planet + good . likely from PTC . Very nice piece .
 
HiTuff 4340? Input shafts are either Hituf or 4340, 2 different types .
 
6 clutch fwd moly hub?? The Chrome moly hub from PTC is a nice piece . The hub is one piece , the 6 clutches is separate really , usually the 6 clutch is for the high/reverse though I do put 6 clutches in the forward in a trans behind a motor making a lot of torque . For interest I have tried 5 forward clutches  with 600+ RWHP and no sign of any slip
 
Not picking here , just trying to help you understand what you have
 
Ah yes the old C10 thing again lol . Good to see you mention Gassed250   No such thing. They are all C4 , C10 is a slang term for a Clevo Pan fill trans
 
Now to the original question. A C4 built right will laugh at 500 HP. A C6 is a good choice also. The FMX will work too, prob not the wisest choice but if you had FMX already it can work ok .

was about to say 700 in gear should be smack on the money.
HPs are damn tuneable compared to standard DPs

Yeah No choke Trev its got a HP street 650DP, yes around 900rpm, idle drops to 700ish when in gear.
But it is tuned to go from idle to wot on the drag strip. as tested on works driveway

I agree I get a few parts from Justin which includes the 4 Aerochambers I have brought.
last 2 where $264 with post ($119.50ea) he also sells Proflow Flow Chamber Muffler which are $83.50
 
Yes you will. only have wheel bearings, blow some paint over it, fit front runners, load up M/T slicks(26x8.5x15") & M&H DOT slicks(275/50R15).
few other little things. and it's ready to go.

I agree I get a few parts from Justin which includes the 4 Aerochambers I have brought.
last 2 where $264 with post ($119.50ea) he also sells Proflow Flow Chamber Muffler which are $83.50
 
Yes you will. only have wheel bearings, blow some paint over it, fit front runners, load up M/T slicks(26x8.5x15") & M&H DOT slicks(275/50R15).
few other little things. and it's ready to go.

Hypertec 351 with 302C Rod pistons are also avalible as Forged pistons

Thought I'd rectifying something I posted earlier. The AFD  2V intake will fit under the bonnet,
Just only have a little 6"x2" air filter on it at the moment. A 6"x2.5" fitler touched the bonnet.

Yay my webber might flow 264-267cfm,
Looks good Sean, I might have to see if the speedways on when I'm over in Albany at the start of May for my brothers wedding.

I brought it through there Ebay shop, she'll be right it will do the job for now.
The ute will be running again 2moro. Just auto fluid, coolant and fill carb with fuel.
next engine will have alloys so I will re use it then,

Yeah trev, engine will be running later this week,
ended up making some spacers out of laminex/melamine and used the felpro gaskets,

as for stroke to bore ratio it is the equivalent to giving a standard 250(3.91") a 3.70" bore (0.020" over bore)
being 3.74"(0.060" overbore) and 3.95" stroke (0.040" offset grind)=260ci, to gain maybe 8hp and 12ft/lb at a lager expense,
so It won't really help it rev harder as he says it will and money could be better spent else where on the engine.
like a roller cam/better conrods/extractors/exhaust/or more headwork
 
and if the crank may need to be replaced if it needs to be reground later on, because you'll have a hard time to find a 0.050"/0.060" undersize con rod bearing. so you'll be back at square one with a standard crank that needs to be offset ground $$$. and a block to replace or re sleeve it's once worn.

the steering shaft just moves inwards/outward in side it's self, its a 2 peice shaft with a inner shaft and outer shaft.
eg manual steering column into P/S car just bolt to steering box and pull toward you till lines up with studs and bolt up.

I should specify rebuilding the LSD itself not the whole diff

the rear seals fit fine, they better, i made em lol, and yes you should use a proper non hardening windscreen sealant with it

You...fuck off.Wouldn't use em anyway cos you have to rev it over 4500.

It's great, It's done me very well I brought it may 07 clicked over 96,000km coming home from Cohuna Ford,
Now has 289,100km. Got a new clutch at 150,000km, reco P/S pump at 160,800, reco alternator at 220,000,
other than that just service Items, & I have never had to call RACV for it once. I just wish it was optioned with an LSD as single spinner is not much fun.
 
Tows good, I have towed 15 cars inculding a XE Ute from Hay and a EL XR6 From Holbrook and 2 14x6 cage trailers