bigpaulo

I would suggest to use a Claybar, or Clay towel, to decontaminate the paintwork first.

DA polishers are awesome for swirl marks and are pretty forgiving for a rookie as opposed to a normal rotary buff. I still use a rotary buff for cutting but a DA for finishing. The big foot 21  one is what i've used but they are filthy expensive. There are plenty of others around that are more affordable, cant say if they do as good a job but yeah for swirl marks they cant be beat.  

I've found getting into paint correction quite bewildering. Heaps of websites deal with it, stacks of machines are available that all do essentially similar things and the products - perhaps unsurprisingly there are fuckloads of them as well.
I've got a Bosch GEX150 Turbo. I bought it a few years ago because it seemed to be highly regarded. Since that point in time heaps of other machines have been made available. Firstly the machine has to be comfortable to hold - it has to have balance so you can use it with one hand if necessary and an extended handle if two-handed operation is required.
The Bosch I have takes a six-inch (150mm) foam pad that adheres to vibrating plate via velcro. The plate has the "hook" component of the velcro adhered to it and the pads sport the "loop" component. The pads never come adrift during operation. The 150mms size in my opinion is a great point from which to start. Plate vibration speeds are infinitely variable via a rotary dial on the handle of the machine. Another setting switch enables a selection to be made that gives the machine a rotary setting as well as a fine orbital one. 
I also have a rotary buffer that I rarely use nowadays because the Bosch combines the functions of two machines.
"Lake Country" is the brand of foam pads I use. They are colour coded according to the amount of "cut" they deliver. Other manufacturers do the same with colour coding. There is no correlation between pad colour and "cut" between manufacturers. Making things more confusing is the lack of correlation between older pad colours and newer issues or ranges within the same manufacturer's lines. Lake Country do offer substantial online resources that attempt to enable you to quantify what kind of cut you're gonna get with what pad.
This all becomes somewhat meaningless and is defined by whatever compounds you're using. At least Lake Country offer tables that quantify the effect their pads have with certain brands of compound.
You really have to suck it and see...experiment with stuff.
I use Waxit to source a lot of my stuff.
https://www.waxit.com.au/
They're based in Tullamarine (Melbourne) and seem to provide a reliable service via the post.
My process is generally as follows  - works for me on home sprayed 2K paint : 
1500-2000 wet sand with half sheet paper. The half sheets available with a light grey abrasive compound have a "blunted" grit profile that leave less fine scratches than the full sheets (brown or black compound) with the same grit rating. The full sheets have a more angular grit profile that leaves more scratches that need to be buffed out later. Sanding removes deeper scratches and peel.
I'll use Menzerna Heavy Cut 300 or 400 on a yellow Lake Country pad with the Bosch set on rotary. I'll next used the same compound using a Lake Country orange pad on an orbital setting. You get a pretty good finish after this point. The new issue Menzerna compounds apparently "reduce" as you polish. The offer more cut at the start of the process and reduce the amount of cut over time.
You can go further with polishing if you wish - depending on your fussiness. Blue or black pads from the manufacturer discussed offer little cutting ability and are more designed to finesse your paints finish with finer polishing compounds or to machine smear a finishing protectant (a natural wax or synthetic compound) onto the paint....
 
 

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5822-diy-catch-can-v20/

you sir, are living life on the edge!

I think, from memory, i have 60 jets (or there abouts), 8.5 power valve, and a 38 squirter. I think...
I remember when changing the power valve i also bent a thin guitar string into the powervalve holes in the metering block. Acts as a restrictor and i found my car definitely ran better with it in there. Stock apart from carby and exhaust.

have you asked a driver of a modern car thats been converted?
most V6 commos get about 15 also..
 
Wes's spent some quality time being tuned by the best in the business..... that would be one reason. the combo was also matched correctly would be another reason.
 
i used to get 20litres per 100km out of a 351 clevo, thought that was crap till i had a 202 VH commo converted on a reco motor and got the same......

When you put it all back together you'll need to get some contact adhesive and glue the headling back along the ridge in the window. Otherwise when you put the window back in its liable to push the headlining down.
just a handy tip!

Thanks bigpaulo.
Didn't think it would be too easy. Luckily, the rear window has to come out anyway to remove some rust and the rear vent windows are easy to remove.

I just did this, massive job!
First, remove the rear window. Take it right out.
Next youve gotta try and peel the headlining back away from the rear window. Its probably gonna be glued along the rear edge, so you have to try and break the adhesive without breaking the headlining. Also completely remove your interior light.
It might also help to remove your rear vent window rubbers, and c pillar trims just so you can peel the headlining back far enough.
Once the headlining is back, if you reach up and feel along the top of the rear window you will feel 4 threads with nuts on poking through into the cab. Undo these nuts and the top trim will be loose. The same applies for the side plastics, there are two threads on each one that poke through into the cabin.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!

I just did this, massive job!
First, remove the rear window. Take it right out.
Next youve gotta try and peel the headlining back away from the rear window. Its probably gonna be glued along the rear edge, so you have to try and break the adhesive without breaking the headlining. Also completely remove your interior light.
It might also help to remove your rear vent window rubbers, and c pillar trims just so you can peel the headlining back far enough.
Once the headlining is back, if you reach up and feel along the top of the rear window you will feel 4 threads with nuts on poking through into the cab. Undo these nuts and the top trim will be loose. The same applies for the side plastics, there are two threads on each one that poke through into the cabin.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!

Will do, give me a few days to take some photos.

This.
I offer paint protection BUT only to those that don't give a fuck about proper maintenance. With a good coating absolutely nothing will stick to it, wax, bird shit ,nothing. If you ever need a panel restated they won't be able to match it properly because of the characteristics of ceramic/glass coatings.
Invest in a GOOD wax be it synthetic or carnauba wax. The most important part that I can't emphasise enough is a proper washing technique with the two bucket method using a grit guard ( I should start a thread on this and other polishing matters, takers?). Also a proper drying technique, if you use a chamois you should be shot. Use a proper waffle weve drying towel and a quick detailer as a drying aid.
Believe it or not but most scratches and marring happen from the owner using improper washing techniques.

the bonnet protector I had on the xf was held on by 6 self tappers along the leading edge of bonnet underneath   it was a clear plastic same as headlight protectors  it was a ford acc when purchased but I believe auger accessories make them along with weather window shields so ask at your parts place and they should be able to help    you will need to take them off periodically to clean behind it also
cheers demmo

Now that my utes been resprayed, im pretty keen to keep it looking this good. Ive seen heaps of detailers advertising paint protection, like a ceramic/glass or silicone coating or something similar, I dont really understand how it works. Whats the pros and cons of this paint protection stuff, and what alternatives, if any.
My two biggest enemies are stonechips and bird shit.
I have to park my car outside, and im pretty sure the birds in my area eat battery acid and then lock their targets directly on my car...
 
Cheers!

I used to use a product called Selleys Glide on Glaze. Dont know if you can still get it or not but it was good at stopping bird shit sticking and effecting the paint. Also used to keep the water beading every wash. Only needed to do it once a year.

Yeah but that log was brown and never been a car part stumpers........... and you shouldn't play with it............

Log manifolds (not motors) refer to the combined head and manifold on Australian 188 and 221's - It was an australian nickname for combined casts
they're NOT an american block but come from a US baseline 200 I6 but with a raised deck (done by ford oz). the oz 188 and 221's replaced the US 170 and 200 "logs"
 
before 250's came out it was common to lance the manifold off and make a separate one.  I did this to a 221 that was in my XR,  once you shaved the manifold off you could fit one off a gen 1 250, although most just dumped the original head for a 250 -2v.  plus you could use 250 extractors with the head swap
 
its called a log because the manifold looked like a log

Custom seating hahaha
 

Custom seating hahaha
 

Custom seating hahaha
 

Custom seating hahaha
 

Custom seating hahaha