SirkWhyXF

nah there is 2cm at least there just a bad angle,i bounced it and its not bottoming out.

I seriously can't wait to see them on your XD
 
 
 

 
And i can't stop looking at these now, i'd love a set of those in 8s & 10s!

I'm waiting for my OS formula mesh to arrive, 17x10 and 17x 8.
 
In saying that, the 17 inch b45 reps look ok.

Somthing like this
 

 

 
17x10 formula mesh
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221827184399

Do a Simmons B45 replica too.....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17-BLANK-OS-FORMULA-STAR-ALLOY-WHEELS-suit-MOST-OLD-SCHOOL-CARS-FORD-HOLDEN/222187204723?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D13db302bb98e45d2a742fa71579d44ec%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221827184399

Somthing like this
 

 

 
17x10 formula mesh
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221827184399

Somthing like this
 

 

 
17x10 formula mesh
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221827184399

Yep, that's a 4V US piece, to suit Holley square bore, not spread bore like a Carter. Numbers give it away.
 
D0AE means:
D = 1970s
0 = 1970
A = full-size body
E = engine
9425 = manifold part number
 
The Aussie 4-barrel 2v piece you're looking for will start with 76DA (can't remember the rest) but Aussie parts had a completely different numbering system.
 
76 = 1976
DA = Design Australia
 
You got yourself a bargain there, some resto nut will be looking for a factory 4v manifold somewhere out there, and you can sell it on to them.

Somthing like this
 

 

 
17x10 formula mesh
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221827184399

Somthing like this
 

 

 
17x10 formula mesh
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221827184399

I was thinking the same thing... There are some who (from an engineering point of view) would deem an OHC swap an owner-certified modification. As the car is of the same basic design as the XG, one might argue that the body shells are of similar enough design to warrant the differences as being only cosmetic. This would allow a much better selection of engines that could achieve performance with economy, and for very cheap. It's all in the interpretation of the certifier but even if it does require a certificate, it's not as hard as say putting a 460 in an Escort.

I think either some star-type or mesh design painted gold would look ace, 17" x 7s up front, 8s on the back.

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57b002dbc527f/garrett_nomenclature.gif

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This needs a build thread, even if it's a retrospective one. Very tidy machine!

Ok so I'm guess the gap between my uca and bump stop is about 5 hours, I can only assume the bump stops are still with the previous owner!


 
 
 
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Thanks for the advise lads.
 
I just picked up the rotors and pads .
The rotors are R.D.A
The pads are Q.F.M ceramic premium.
 
There wasn't anyone that could get close to the price $ 107 all up , for a cash sale wood duck like me !
Fitting is $50 ,while I get my 10,000 km free tyre rotation done.
 
One brake place wanted $350 to machine 2 x rotors and fit  1 x set of new pads.
 
$157 supply and fit ... No brainer.

Thanks for your comments and votes all.
 
On Thursday arvo this happened
 
 

Sika flex isn't a permanent fix for anything. It will eventually dry right through and shrink in the process. It's designed to bond lightweight items that need to move slightly, eg mouldings.
 
My personal choice would be Lord / Fusor adhesive. I've used fusor 112b panel bond to glue roof skins on cars with hail damage. Pretty sure I've also used the fusor 2098 crash durable adhesive. Similar stuff but cartridges use a normal style gun for application like silicone.
 
Both apply to bare metal best, so clean paint off the direct contact area then apply a bead of glue and clamp or screw panels together. Screws could be ground off and filled over. Rivets would also work. Prep and paint as normal.

One free windscreen with your insurance company.???  There's another way.......

cant you leave the metal tab on the screen, unscrew the grub screw on the mirror base and slide it off if its same as Xseries one

Well afraid to say this but here goes:
 
Business (particularly corporations) are pathological in their intent.  Business solely exists to deliver money to shareholders, and yeah if you get a batch of known shit, someone will inevitably do an analysis of keeping the junk and paying on warranty, vs junking it and getting quality ones.
 
This is a perfect example of this, diesel gate is another.
 
The only weapon you have against this shit is to complain like a bitch, constantly.  Its easier for business, while the screw the silent majority.
 
Moral of the story:  Doesn't pay to be nice, be a cunt.
 
This excludes small mom and dad style businesses - while they exist to turn a profit, there is a degree of morality to them missing from bigger concerns.

Sure you didnt put the old ones back in by mistake!
 
They look old and perished.

Yeah thanks mate it's comin along nicely now goin up there tomoro to drop off the new engine to be painted n see her in the flesh now the bay is done

Good stuff. No I've had no rubbing at the front what so ever, they are rolled but just a pretty standard job with the guard roller not as aggressive as the rears.
 
Yours is gonna look shit hot with those wheels and paint, and I've said it before but that bay
 
What rim width/size/offset did you end up going with, and what tyres you planning on tucking under those rolled rear guards?