SirkWhyXF

So...
The bug has hit to own a car with bulk grunt before we all turn to an electric future.  That and she who must be obeyed has vetoed other choices/platforms which lend themselves to power ups which you would:
a.  not do because of their rarity or pure cubic dollar value (like a merc sl)
b.  too new (anything really)
c.  a holden (has taste)
d.  looks evil (gt falcon, but I don't have a problem with that)
So that leaves the old falcon ute with a 5 speed and a efi 4.1.  Now I contemplated doing a Windsor conversion, which would have been simpler, easier, and make v8 noises which appeals to me on a deep level.
But I've really enjoyed the journey with this car, and being a bit different appeals to both me and the missus.  It is nice to drive something a bit old school knowing you've done it yourself even if said device is being outrun by a diesel golf.  And thats the problem, being outrun by the diesel golf.
Now the current 4.1 thats in the car has a cam ct142-528, 5/16 yella terra roller rockers, jp timing chain.  Also has an eb inlet.  Languishing in the front yard has been the original numbers motor, which I put on a stand and pulled down last weekend.  And even though the mains and rod bearings were fucked, generally the crank was fine, and lifter bores good.  So after 4 years outside under a tarp its looking pretty good.
So the plans are  to build a solid motor that can take a bit of boost without going to ridiculous levels.  400-450 is the goal
(and feel free to rubbish and offer advice).  
Bottom end
balanced bottom end Ef crank (I won't need it but I've got a free one) Arp rod bolts New cast pistons acl New oil pump (not a hi vol) Head
Wagoon (Ryan) sold me a head with some porting already done Ferrea inlets and exhausts 1.6" Windsor exhausts and f1220P inlets Isky 235d +retainers+collets rollers from the existing motor to be transferred over Cam
open to choice but think the CT142-528 will do the job. But open to something with more lift if you guys recommend it Turbo
gt3582r or master power t70 Injection 
Eb inlet and possibly mega squirt Anyway, happy to take advice
 
Dave
 
 

And another advantage is that even if you thought you had absolutely no cuts on your hands, you'll soon find out that you do, big times.

Lol this is your T5 to the bottle of Dex sitting there:

"I want to eat you... Get in ma belly"

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You said...
 
Take the gear oil out of the T5
Open the bottle of DexIII
And put it in the T5.

Rawdeal.  If you intend on putting transmax z in your tremec t5, then i will be forced to extend my dog kicking clause to inc any dogs in your possession for a maximum penalty of 10 kicks per year for 20 years.  

That's gold, quote of the year

First,
Just use a good quality DEXIII.
I say again. IF YOU HAVE A NON-World-Class series T5 TRANSMISSION, USE DEXIII OIL!
Tremec stipulate this in their service manual and info packs on the transmission and this info is available online, on the tremec website.
Whats that, you just arrived in this thread and you've got gear oil in your world class T5???? TAKE IT OUT AND FILL WITH DEXIII, OR I WILL COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK YOUR DOG, AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE A DOG, I WILL BUY YOU ONE ON YOUR BIRTHDAY, WAIT TILL IT GROWS UP, THEN COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK IT.
If you mechanic friend tells you to put gear oil in. They are WRONG.
If your local transmission "specialist" fills it with gear oil, You have my permission to leave them a scathing review on Google(tm)

Here:
http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRSM-T5-0510-R1_173.pdf
Section 2, Para 2-4
2-4. APPROVED LUBRICANT. Most T5 transmission models use DexronÒ II automatic transmission fluid. Refer the vehicle owner’s manual or service manual for lubricant specifications. CAUTION Do not mix different bands or types of transmission lubricant. DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE T5 TRANSMISSION SINCE THIS MAY DAMAGE THE BLOCKING RING MATERIAL.
Step 1, Pick up a bottle of DexIII
Step 2, Turn it over and read "suitable where DEX1,2,3 is specified"
Step 3, TAKE THE GEAR OIL OUT, AND PUT THIS IN YOUR T5 (Disclaimer: as long as its WC spec)


Okay, sorry, Tangent. Moving on.

I post the information below not as a statement of fact, but simply as information. It should be cross referenced and you should draw your own conclusion as to the effectiveness of oil additives.
Here i refer to Nulon g70 and it's PTFE additive claims.
Disclaimer: I have used Nulon g70 in my own T5 with DexIII, And was once an advocate for it. I have never been able to fully make up my mind about this as i "felt" i experienced smoother shifting with the g70. But was never able to actually substantiate this claim.
My biggest "Don't do it" for this topic has always been "If this stuff is as good as it says, then the engineers that spend their careers designing and mixing oils, would be putting it in there themselves. Who am i to decide that these engineers don't know what they are doing, and take it upon myself to tamper with their product?"

The TL:DR for the below is: PTFE has no place as an additative, the company that created the compound said so. No independent study has ever proven benefits to it's use"
Where it says "Slick 50" it's pretty much an american version of a PTFE additive
and with that i give you this:
 
 

Slick 50 was subject to a class action lawsuit and at least another independent one.
DuPont refused to sell them PTFE so they used cheap clone PTFE that was rubbish. Not that PTFE particles have any place in an engine





Out of the frying pan …

One friction modifier whose efficacy is the center of much attention is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE or TFE, for short, the generic name for DuPont Chemical's Teflon), of which there is a family of similar yet distinct formulations. PTFEs boast the lowest coefficient of friction of any known material. Back in 1980, DuPont told everybody that their studies showed PTFE offered "no significant benefits as an engine additive." This statement set off a storm of controversy that still has DuPont spokespeople walking on eggs. However, you will notice that none of the PTFE additive suppliers are allowed to use the word "Teflon" in their advertisements or product information.

For most people "Teflon" calls up the mental image of a no-stick frying pan. PTFE engine oil treatments work quite a bit differently than the PTFE in a cooking utensil, however. When coating a frying pan the metal is spotlessly cleaned in prepara tion for the application of PTFE. This situation is never going to happen spontaneously in a motor, no matter what you use as a pour-in cleaning agent.

As a motor oil additive, PTFE powder is held in suspension in a liquid carrier. Because most (if not all) PTFE resins are more or less tailored for their end use, and because few (if any) of the available powders have been tailored for use as an oil additive, PTFE oil additive marketers must select a PTFE that was compounded for some other purpose (such as frying pans, wire insulation, etc.).

Powders come in different particle sizes, with the smaller sizes typically costing a bit more than the larger sizes. For those who can not afford (or find a source for) the size they want, custom grinding houses can take a less expensive 400 to 500 micron powder, freeze it with liquid nitrogen, and grind it to whatever size is needed. Most of the PTFE oil additives use a particle anywhere from 20 microns down to the sub-micron size.

The very characteristic of PTFE that makes it so slippery also makes it tough to get it where the action is in the motor. For this reason, the carrier liquid is often an affinity agent that bonds the PTFE to the friction areas. These take the form of chemicals such as tricresyl phosphate (TCP) and triaryo phosphate (TAP). The use of the right affinity agent has the positive side effect of boosting lubrication performance whether or not there is any PTFE involved. Some of the affinity agents are so tenacious that it is jokingly said you could lubricate your engine with water if it had enough affinity agent in it. Because of this, some high-performance oils (such as Synthoil) are blended to include affinity agents from the start.

Listening to some of the claims made for PTFE you might get the impression that it is the solution to almost any problem you might have, real or imagined. So why aren't the Big Oil companies putting it in their products?

Most of the oil companies are reluctant to discuss what is or is not in their oil. Off the record, however, many oil company spokespeople express concern that as a solid, PTFE does not stay in suspension forever. If the oil sits for too long the PTFE will settle out; an unacceptable situation for the oil companies we talked to. And as difficult as it is to get the PTFE in suspension in ideal situations, once combustion by-products and oxidation begin to change the chemical composition of the oil, keeping the PTFE in suspension poses a whole new set of problems.

Most oil company engineers also cited additive package balance as a major consideration. Whether talking about pour point depressants or oxidation inhibitors, each felt that whatever the gain in friction reduction the price was too high in other areas of lubricant performance.

If a PTFE additive sounds good to you, the best bet is to contact the manufacturer for test data that can be correlated against other known good lubricants. The Sequence IIID, Sequence VD, and L-38 tests previously mentioned, for example, are industry-wide standards that readily allow comparison against traditional lubricants. The manufacturer that can back up its claims with test results is a lot more convincing than the one with beautiful sales brochures filled with unsubstantiated claims.




Slick 50 and other engine oil additives supposedly reduce engine wear and increase fuel efficiency.

You may have heard the commercial or seen the ad:

Multiple tests by independent laboratories have shown that when properly applied to an automotive engine, Slick 50 Engine Formula reduces wear on engine parts. Test results have shown that Slick 50 treated engines sustained 50 percent less wear than test engines run with premium motor oil alone.

There are about 50 other products on the market which make similar claims, many of them being just duplicate products under different names from the same company. The price for a pint or quart of these engine oil additives runs from a few dollars to more than $20. Do these products do any good? Not much. Do they do any harm. Sometimes.

What's in these miracle lubricants, anyway? If they're so wonderful, why don't car manufacturers recommend their usage? Why don't oil companies get into the additive business? Where are these studies mentioned by Petrolon (Slick 50)? Probably in the same file cabinet as the tobacco company studies proving the health benefits of smoking.

The basic ingredient is the same in most of these additives: 50 weight engine oil with standard additives. The magic ingredient in Slick 50, Liquid Ring, Matrix, QM1 and T-Plus from K-Mart is Polytetrafluoroethylene. Don't try to pronounce it: call it PTFE. But don't call it Teflon, which is what it is, because that is a registered trademark. Dupont, who invented Teflon, claims that "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines." But what do they know? They haven't seen the secret studies done by Petrolon (Slick 50).

PTFE is a solid which is added to engine oil and coats the moving parts of the engine.

However, such solids seem even more inclined to coat non-moving parts, like oil passages and filters. After all, if it can build up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures and virtually no friction.

This conclusion seems to be borne out by tests on oil additives containing PTFE conducted by the NASA Lewis Research Center, which said in their report, "In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply blocks the oil from entering. Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant" (Rau).

In defense of Slick 50, tests done on a Chevy 6 cylinder engine by the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station found that after treatment with the PTFE additive the test engine's friction was reduced by 13.1 percent, the output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel economy improved as well. Unfortunately, the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased (Rau).

the FTC and Slick 50

In 1997, three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. (the makers of Slick 50) settled Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated. According to the FTC complaint, claims such as the following made in Slick 50 ads falsely represented that without Slick 50, auto engines generally have little or no protection from wear at start-up and commonly experience premature failure caused by wear:

"Every time you cold start your car without Slick 50 protection, metal grinds against metal in your engine."

"With each turn of the ignition you do unseen damage, because at cold start-up most of the oil is down in the pan. But Slick 50's unique chemistry bonds to engine parts. It reduces wear up to 50% for 50,000 miles."

"What makes Slick 50 Automotive Engine Formula different is an advanced chemical support package designed to bond a specially activated PTFE to the metal in your engine."

In fact, the FTC said, "most automobile engines are adequately protected from wear at start-up when they use motor oil as recommended in the owner's manual. Moreover, it is uncommon for engines to experience premature failure caused by wear, whether they have been treated with Slick 50 or not.

i had a EF t5 behind my cleveland - was mild - and i didnt drive like a fuck stick, but i gave it a hiding - you need a 6cyl t5 and a custom bellhousing (dont go dellow spend the extra and get from malwood - itll save you money in the long run) then ull need a hyduralic clutch setup (standard xe pedal box) get the master cylinder bored to 2" as it will not suit a aftermarket slave cylinder - bit of fucking around but worth it

These are photo shopped on at this point, but do have them in 17x10 for rear and 17x8 for front sitting in boxes.
 
 
 
 
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Simmons Are too common these days.
 
They still look good but it's like the default option when you can't think of what wheel to buy.

v5 is nice and period correct,you see quite a lot of them on grand prix's,but the new performance gold looks almost too good to resist for a look a like enkie.

Maybe some V5's with a custom 17inch hoop?
 
Simmons isn't the real Aussie made Simmons anymore though.
Retro Wheels bought all the old dies and parts, for the original Simmons wheels.

Either way can't go wrong. (i'd still go gold... but i do have a gold wheel fetish, i just love gold wheels for some reason.)

Either way can't go wrong. (i'd still go gold... but i do have a gold wheel fetish, i just love gold wheels for some reason.)

ok, so as i just mentioned above, i have the car home again to do the next round of work and upgrades on the car. 
 
Last week i ordered and received a heap of part from Burton Power in the UK. so so so much cheaper than getting the parts here in AUS. 
 
the list of parts:
GAZ rear shocks, adjustable
Steering rack mount rubbers 
gearbox mount
engine mounts (converting to Mk2/2L style which are stronger)
new brackets to run Mk2 engine mounts with 1300 engine. 
steering wheel boss kit 
 
i decided tonight to start on the rear shocks. took only about half hr to do both sides, and far out i am absolutely stoked with the improvement to how the car drives.  
 

 
old vs. new 
even on their softest setting, the new shocks are significantly stiffer than the old ones 
 

 
fair to say the old ones were well and truely stuffed. 
 

 
 

I'm leaning more towards charcoal centres. I like the contrast against the bright yellow.
 
 
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Since it sounds like you'd be going with a more modern turbo kit for the GP replica,
original looking wheels in a bigger size, would fit the.... 'Modern twist on an old favorite'.... theme perfectly.
 
I'd go with 17's.
That'd allow the option of bigger brakes too.

Deep dished Gold 17's would look shit hot on your van.

That's what I'm thinking of going on my xf, good,looking rims,,especially the 17x10

A mate just stopped by and donated a set of 15x7 gold performance wheels ,im stoked cause most of these are of the 14'' size.

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use
 
Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power.
 
 
The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans.
 
For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot.
 
The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power.
 
Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle.
 
To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.
 
 

Fucking awesome penetration on those welds.
 
It's like having sex and bashing the dick around the hole and not getting a decent plunge in

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive.
 
Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip.
 
Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road,
 
Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction.
 
I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.
 
 

Cool idea....
 
Left handed drill bits work the best.
Ezy outs
Stud extractors
Weld a nut on top
Cut a slot with hacksaw, and use a screwdriver
2 nuts tightened together on the thread
 
 
Just to name a few.
 
Anyone else.??

Not experienced in it, but i know the stock brakes with good rotors and bendex ult's which is a semi high temp pad would stand up to road race for about 4-6 laps at wakefield. Which is about 8 minutes of punishing the brakes before the pads failed. And thats 100 times worse than what you could ever safely do to them on the street.
 
But anyway, the brakes maintained good authority over the wheels for that, Running 17's with 245/45's from memory.
 
If you go a larger wheel you will eventually overpower the brakes, ie you cannot get enough friction on the brake to overpower the torque applied by the wheel, you'll have to stand harder on the brakes. And you may not get the same stopping power as you would with a smaller wheel diamater.
 
I have no idea how big is too big...
 
To expand a bit. You have 2 things going on here. The authority or bias of the brakes and the amount of heat they can dissipate.
The heat is generated from speed vs weight and the inertia of the wheels.
the authority is the the rotor diameter vs wheel diamater and the type of friction material used in the pad and rotor.
 
You have too much speed and weight you'll make a lot of heat. And something will fail.
Higher temp pads, more surface area (width, venting type and dimater) of the rotor or better airflow (ducting) can be used to cool.
 
If your brake system is functioning properly, you put your foot on the brake till you cannot push any harder and cannot lock up the wheels. You dobt have enough stopping power. You can reduce traction (booooo) reduce wheel diamater, increase rotor diamater or Increase friction coefficent(pad and/or rotor material). To make sure you have enough authority to utilise all that traction you have.
 
This is my understanding.