eattsie9

Great idea I'll give that a go thanks alot.

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Australia post mate. They are pretty good now.  I send stuff to tassie all the time. I'll get some photos tomorrow and send them thru. At $375 it will be there basic sump, which is fine. 

In the XA, engine bay, opposite side to battery on the shock tower. Carter pump, using original factory line and rubber hose. Depends on whether you bought a 'push' or 'pull' pump. 

I made up a rubber mount bracket and fitted the pump infront of the tank behind the watts link.



 
 

i made my own mount connecting to the wats link mount and the fuel tank mount for my lift pump
 
my big pump is in the passenger rear well under the battery (pics in my thread some where if u need more info)

Who knows, they want people to think they need 300 dollar overkill pumps? Have been told heaps of bogus bullshit from "professionals" before. I dont expect that to ever change.
Just the other day i was talking to a technical expert at castrol as he stumbeled his way through explaining how the professional grade edge 0w40 was different to the retail one of the same name, till i told him i need to know for sure as im doing trend analysis on the oils and i can't do it if the oils are gonna be different. Then he had to tell me how he dosent think the analysis will pick up a difference between the oils...
 
Or how RRS say the coil strut suspension is thebfkn beez knees but don't tell you anything about the geometry issues it will cause with the wet noodle that is the front of an x-series.
 
Or when castlemain tell you the willwood brake kits they make are custom machined and no off shelf will fit but they wont give you dimentions or explian about how they custom machine them. And all along you know that 72 mustangs have identical spindals to xfal and willwood make off the shelf kits for them.

For my alternator?

I beleive so. Trying to get some details/measurements from supplier to confirm will let you know
 
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triple webers, lol

Don't know if Mustang parts are readily available there- I used a '95 alternator from a parts store, and a 3 wire repair pigtail. 1 wire to keyed 12v power, 1 wire the old field wire, 1 wire jumps to itself. 130 Amps, dead easy, internal regulated, bolts in place of the 65A external regulated alternator. I can post up pictures and some links to the wiring if it would help.

hardest part of the hard lines fit up is the mounting clips into the chassis mounts.. if you were to use P clamps tek screwed in that would be simple.

Plus or minus 16 months. Hahaha

Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Deleted module and it ran!!!!!!
Only had dummy wired so have pulled everything apart again to tidy up then will fine tune the
timing!! Thank you to everyone for advice!

Well I see $523 to $630. Gotta make a profit on there import and there available now in Aust. Or your order and wait and hope its right.  
 
Not cheap are they.

Wow about 200 aud difference
 
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Give them space boys...... Fight Fight Fight Fight Fight.... as the crowd grows.

Cool, I've ready heaps on this stuff and still sounds like complete jibberish I think my best bet now is to just get it and see what happens
 
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Not much difference. They are both non programmable. If you are talking 6al2 programmable and 6al - well there are big differences.
The non programmable ignitions will only allow u to run locked timing and in my opinion aren't worth the trouble. I'd just save up for a 6al2 programmable and be done with it.

hey guys, quick question. does anybody know the difference between a 6AL and 6AL-2? is there a huge difference? Might be able to get myself a second hand 6AL off a mate so thought id see if it would do the trick?
 
Cheers

I have been down this road and been 250 rod and 200 rod combos with my engine there was no real gain that we could see on the dyno or in the car for that matter with 262@50 cam and 4 barrel I never tyred it with webers

I just sold 2 200 rod engines people think its better and in something like rob has it is, on a engine that does not turn past 6200 theres no need the 250 rod will put up with it and love you long time

can you but the rings for the 200 rod pistons again? I have a set of new 200 rod pistons  in the shed ive never done anything with cause you cant seem to get the ring sets for them anymore so I bought these to nick the ring set for the my engine that I killed a piston ring

 

If you want to build a strong, torque monster and have a non individual runner intake - go short rod
 
If you want to build a strong, torque monster that RPM's to 7200 comfortably, have individual runner intake and a cylinder head that flows over 225cfm- go long rod.
 
If you want to build a long rod motor to impress your mates - do it. 
 
Trust me - the short rod motor with a four barrel intake (or restrictor class racing 2 barrel intake ) is a formidable thing. 
 
Yes I know all the stuff about bore stroke ratio and all the long held beliefs of the benefits of the long rod.  I have built enough of these as competition engine to know what works and what doesn't.  Brenton's new race motor is a short rod - big solid cam beast and it is stupid fast.
 
As always the choice is yours. 

There is absolutely no denying the benefit of a 200 rod setup in a crossflow, BUT does it suit what you want to use the engine for. A 200 rod combo is useful when you are trying to extract the last 2% of power out of a crossflow AND revving the engine to 7500RPM all the time. So if the car is for drag racing where you are trying to win a championship or set the fastest time ever by a NA crossflow, your car is for burnout comps where the engine will be sitting above 7000rpm for 3 minutes at a time or your the new drift king where the limiter is used to show how strong your car is go the 200 rod setup. Unless you are doing these events or an event just like it you DON'T need 200 rod combo. The only other time you will need a 200 rod combo is if your building a car for street machine and so they can fill out the story they can say you have a 200 rod combo.
 
Now to the links you provided.
The cheaper set has flat top pistons, which will limit the cylinder head you can run if you want to use petrol instead of race fuel. You will find it hard to keep the CR down with flat tops and still get zero deck height ( zero deck height is better for performance)
The more expensive set have custom compression ratio but at $2200 is stupid expensive unless you need forged pistons or desperate for 200 rod combo. As an example my solid roller cam crossflow has 10.5:1 CR, will have a rev limit around the 6200-6500rpm, will run on pump fuel and I'm hoping for at least 350fwhp. I am using standard hypetec pistons with hastings rings and it cost me less than $300.
 
So if you win lotto, have money to burn, want the wank factor of forged setup or are trying to set records go for the 200 rod setup. Otherwise save yourself a stupid amount of money and use standard pistons, spend the rest on better parts and go just as fast.

It gives a longer rod to stroke ratio, meaning the pistons move faster in the middle of the stroke but slow down towards the ends of the stroke so it takes less effort for the pistons to change direction, it's supposed to free up torque in the sub 7k rpm range, ford themselves did it with the boss 302 (by using 289 length rods) and many have done it to 351 clevos (by using a 302 length rod)

Oooh. Yeah maybe not hey.

Buy it... Then send me the link so I can buy one too.
 
Lets you rev the 250 higher but the pistons to suit are stupid hard to come by.