brianj

It's all bolt in. If you can see it in my tiny avatar picture, the front valance, side skirts and rear valance are all steel. Link to build thread. http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?154963-Front-air-dam-and-full-steel-body-kit

Won't let me post any more pictures to show finished product. It would work on any vehicle, and i only have basic hand tools and a mig welder. Time consuming, but simple.

Don't know if Mustang parts are readily available there- I used a '95 alternator from a parts store, and a 3 wire repair pigtail. 1 wire to keyed 12v power, 1 wire the old field wire, 1 wire jumps to itself. 130 Amps, dead easy, internal regulated, bolts in place of the 65A external regulated alternator. I can post up pictures and some links to the wiring if it would help.

Don't drink it, or paint your weiner with it, and you'll be ok.

I've not had good luck with the bronze gears. They seem to wear out quickly. The steel gear on a roller cam lasts forever, that is what I'm running now.

A very few 1995 Cobra mustangs had the 351W. I believe it was something around 250 cars total. They were pretty much a dealership sold race car. I actually have a 1973 351C sitting in my garage, with less than 40k miles on it. It almost went into my car, but the cost of anything 351C related here is quite high. I could build a 600HP 408 stroker Windsor from a 351W cheaper, by far, than i could get 500HP from a Cleveland. They just have very little support here. Ironically, all of the good stuff comes from Australia, and I'm sure you are familiar with the shipping cost.

Windsor 5.0, Weiand 174 mini blower.

I didn't even realize i was in the Cleveland section until after i posted. F'n new guys.

I'd like to see how you make out with this. I'm only running 7lbs of boost, and my motor wizzes oil out of the breathers every time I'm on boost. A catch can is high on my list of things to do.

It's a Comp Cams XE270HR. I'd have to look for the cam card to remember the numbers, but it's around .512 lift with 1.6 rockers. It's a dual grind, so it favors the exhaust a bit. My timing curve is pretty odd, because it is a blower car. EDIT found the cam card. All of those lift numbers are for 1.7 rockers. I'm running 1.6, so lift is .512, not .544

It is a normal power valve. Mine happens to be a 10.5, but every motor might need something different. The biggest difference is that the original port in the base of the carb that sends the vacuum to the power valve is plugged, and a new port is drilled through the body of the carb, into the power valve chamber. You then run a vacuum line from the new port in the carb, to a vacuum source UNDER the blower. A roots type blower always has vacuum under the carb, which will keep the power valve closed, and can make you go lean under boost. By referencing the vacuum signal under the blower instead of under the carb, it will always open the power valve as soon as the vacuum drops. You can buy carbs already boost referenced, or you can do a web search on how to do it yourself. It's pretty simple to do, and you can do it yourself far cheaper than buying one already referenced.

Every cam is different, but I've done a little rule of thumb that most performance set ups want all the mechanical advance in by 2500 to 3000 rpm. If your distributors are set up the same, there should be a pair slotted cams in the bottom under the pickup or points plate. They are reversible, and should have a number stamped on them, that equals half of the avance the cam will allow. A "10" stamped plate allows 20 degrees of mechanical, a 15 gives you 30 degrees, etc. There are several internet sites that can give you an exact measurement for the slot size to equal what you want for advance, and you can weld up the slots and file them to get exactly what you want. For example, i wanted 10 degrees of mechanical advance on my car, so i welded my slot closed, and filed it to .410 (or around there- I'm not sure what it was) and my distributor is now restricted to 10 degrees, which let me run way more initial advance, without going over 30 degrees total. For how fast it comes in, you can play with different weight springs (light springs bring the timing in faster) until you get what you want. If you don't have a selection of springs, you can also bend the spring attachment tabs to increase or decrease spring tension. It is actually pretty simple to do yourself. The only other thing I would advise, is while you are playing with getting your advance curve how you like it, unhook the vacuum advance. Once you have your mechanical advance how you like it, THEN you can hook the vacuum advance back up and tinker with that. Trying to do both at the same time can get confusing.

A little late to the party, but I have one of the 174 blowers on a 302. It was very simple to install. My motor is a 9.0 c.r., cast piston, all factory motor. I welded the slots on the Duraspark mechanical advance up, so the slots are .410". This restricted the mechanical advance to 10 degrees. The springs on the advance are extremely light, allowing full advance by 1500RPM. My initial timing is 18 degrees. Basically, this lets me start the engine without trouble, but as soon as the motor is running, it acts like the distributor is locked at 28 degrees. It has a mechanical secondary 750cfm holley on it, with a boost referenced power valve. And that's it. No plumbing for the intake, no blow through carb,it's still using the mechanical fuel pump, etct. Very simple. It makes a ridiculous amount of torque, and is hella fun on the street. The only problems are, you must use high octane fuel (not race fuel, but not cheap crap, either) and you will have a very hard time finding traction with the torque.