XFChris

This is my first how to - no guarantees, no liability, blah blah. Just wanted to share what I figured out.
 
NOTE: These instructions assume that your central locking system works - or at least, well enough that the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch on the driver's door will lock/unlock all the doors.
  The key switches in the doors are a common point of failure, and a bad key switch will prevent the whole central locking system from functioning. An easy workaround is to connect the green and white wires in the key-switch plug to each other, bypassing the key switch.   First, get a keyless entry kit. I got this el-cheapo kit for under $20 from eBay - you don't need one with actuators, since it will be spliced into the factory wiring.   (1) Remove the driver's door switch panel to make some modifications to the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch:   ( a ) Cut the two metal strips joining the window switches to the lock switch ( b ) Cut the metal strip joining the two corner pins of the lock switch. ( c ) Join the other (window switch side) ends of the two metal strips cut in step (a) with a wire or something.   ( d ) Attach new wires to the two corner pins of the lock switch (these will go to the keyless module)
 
  (2) Run a length of figure-eight wire from the driver's kick panel to the driver's door switch panel, and connect them to the new wires added in ( d ) using whatever connectors are handy. I used the speaker cable grommet holes to feed the wire through.   (3) For this kit, the wiring on the remote box side is done according to the instructions for a "Central Lock Motor (Two Wire)". Refer to the wiring colours in your keyless entry kit's instructions, as they may be different.   In my case, I connected the red, yellow/black and blue wires to a +12V source (the yellow wire behind the boot release switch) and the black, green and grey cables to ground.   The yellow and brown cables connect up to the two cores of the figure-eight wire added in (2). If the door locking and unlocking buttons on your remote do the wrong thing, swap the two wires around.   (4) The boot release feature on the remote box grounds the orange wire coming out of it. As the actual boot release switch on the car needs +12v fed into the purple wire, wire up a relay as follows, and splice it into the purple wire behind the boot release switch:   (5) Wire the two purple wires (+12v output for flashing indicator) to the indicator wires under the steering column - green and green/blue.   Then tuck everything in the kick panel and you're good to go!

Wire sleeve could work well when paired up with electrical tape wrapped loom, twice the protection. 
 
Though a well wrapped loom looks cleaner in my book.

I have never seen them before but if they are genuine Enki and 3 piece they will be imports from Japan. Most import nissans have the same pcd as falcons but offset is different. But the "old school" wheels will have the offset we need.

Hey Xtreme , mate just watch that wire sleeve stuff, if the ends or sides are open water gets in and shorts ya connections. I prefer to hand wrap/loom the wiring in electrical tape, just be sure to use a good quality one like Nitto or similiar or it will just come apart.... a bit like buick v6 /commodore motors.....
 
Nice to have good lights on a dark road.
 
Jack.

I would use it but I would only put in 1/4 of a bottle every oil change (5000ks).  It says to run a full bottle but if you run a quality oil like FUCHS etc then you don't need to use as much.  If you run shit oil then maybe a third to half  a bottle every change. 
 
Oil (and additives) is cheap.  Engine machining and rebuilding is not.

so, ive been fucking around with my xf and changed the carby, still a stock 34adm, but. i noticed that the throttle return spring at full collapse, is still only 3/4 or so throttle......... yanked that prick out, put a return spring from the inlet mani bolt to the carby and bam, it actually moves now. try it and see if it also works for you!!! 
 
cheers.

My stock XF GL wagon.
 

 
Currently undergoing a Ghia conversion so I'll post another one when its done.

You can never look too many times... There is wiring that has had the insulation melt... Perhaps all that smoke was the insulation melting, it did have a very unpleasant smell, and people say burning plastic is a nasty smell.
 
Inst fuse seems fine, and it's the recommended 20A. Alternator seems to be ok as well.  12.29V at battery off, 13.89V running
 
I think I will chop out and replace the fried wiring, and see how I go.
 

Go by the book, or instructions in aftermarket gear.
 
Though that said, I've only ever bolted on one head (not a ford one), and that was done via the following method.
 
-Do all head bolts hand tight (I did this in 2 passes, also, if there is a sequence to follow, follow it)
-Torque headbolts up to specified nm
-Mark all headbolts with a paint marker or such (all the markings should be identical, ie: pointing 12 o clock
-Torque all headbolts an additional 90 degrees CW in sequence (use the dots as a reference, they should all line up once done
-Torque all headbolts a further 90 degrees CW in sequence
 
So far the HG seems to be ok
 
Make sure you take your time, follow the torquing sequence, and have a fairly accurate torque wrench

Cheap is subjective.
 
But good spark goes a long way, particularly if running lpg.
 
Use a Bosch HEC716 (OEM coil AFAIK) or better. Made a difference on my car.

Cheap is subjective.
 
But good spark goes a long way, particularly if running lpg.
 
Use a Bosch HEC716 (OEM coil AFAIK) or better. Made a difference on my car.

Now for some bigger gains, webber carby mods. Without changing the venturi size or throttle blades you can make a webber flow just as much as a stock 350 holley. just by cleaning up the imperfections in the venturi casting and gasket matching the whole thing you can gain just over 10cfm of flow through the carb,
 


 
Here is the big gain that I will share, I got the throttle shafts machined down a bit, I got it machined only as wide as the throttle blades and down level with the flat parts that the screws fix to, then the same amount off the other side, I did this to both shafts.
 
Original shaft
 

 
Machined shafts
 



 
On the flow bench this gave a 34cfm gain so with the other cleanup this carb now flows 308cfm, once I get my carb top back I will test it again and I'm confident it will go over the 350 holley flow rate of 320cfm.
This is the prototype of my webber carb top.
 

Some quick and easy things to do is modify the aircleaner housing to let more air in as the stock snorkel and cold air piping is very restrictive, a stock webber flows 260cfm and the aircleaner housing reduces that down to 235cfm, use a holesaw and make some breather holes on the other side of the housing.
 

 
If you don't want to put holes in it or your not allowed to put holes in it then remove the rubber seal that is in the lid, this creates a small gap around the whole assembly and allows more air in.
 

 
If you want to make it even better and have no restriction at all put a rubber spacer on top of the aircleaner element, I have flow tested and you only need to raise the lid 6mm to have no restriction, I used some mdf rings to get the total height needed to register minimum restriction.
 

cheap upgrade - scan the speedway forums for 'used' speedway motors - some real bargains to be had there - ok you may have to freshen them up but I know of plenty of engines that have been off- loaded for peanuts really.  Remember shit like balancing and machining costs heaps so if you just have to throw rings, bearings and a gasket set at these bargain engines - you are miles ahead. 
 
Piss off the stock manifold and by the new aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold. even cylinder fill will build torque and HP and for $500 odd dollars is money well spent. 
 
Make sure the simple shit, like fuel, air and spark is all good.  getting the basics right will make good power. 
 
Freshen up old engines.  None of these engines are getting any younger so fresh rings and bearings - valve grind and head surface for more comp will all make a huge difference. 

Go the 6AL-2 Programmable
 
The distributors are curved to suit petrol on factory. LPG works best with more initial advance than petrol, but total advance needs to be less than petrol for best results. Can't do that by turning a factory distributor, you will bring up both initial and total advance.
 
Plus the programmable features gives you flexibility for future mods, simply plot a new curve to suit. You can even hook a laptop up to it, tune it in between doing some road testing (in a safe quiet area of course)
 
Got mine up and running this past weekend, still just running locked timing. Car is more torquey now, and have not heard it misfire while driving, used to misfire fairly often before. I'm sure it will get better once I throw a timing curve in.

Go the 6AL-2 Programmable
 
The distributors are curved to suit petrol on factory. LPG works best with more initial advance than petrol, but total advance needs to be less than petrol for best results. Can't do that by turning a factory distributor, you will bring up both initial and total advance.
 
Plus the programmable features gives you flexibility for future mods, simply plot a new curve to suit. You can even hook a laptop up to it, tune it in between doing some road testing (in a safe quiet area of course)
 
Got mine up and running this past weekend, still just running locked timing. Car is more torquey now, and have not heard it misfire while driving, used to misfire fairly often before. I'm sure it will get better once I throw a timing curve in.

cant comment alot cause i am yet to install one but i recently have weighted up all the options and decided on the programmable 6al2 personally
 
ultimate control and very easy to program, easily upgradeable vacuum/boost controls etc
 
price wise i basically said to myself, if i am considering one because its cheap then i can save for another week or 2 and buy the best option from the beginning

6al2 programmable - best piece of kit around.  locked timing belongs in the 80's with bad music and fluro shirts. 
 
Once you have a 6al2 programmable you will never look back.  I have been known to go on about them as much as I go on about standard volume oil pumps so best I just pull it up there. 
 
Oh ok - one bit more - save up and get the big hvc2 coil as well - they are awesome and give a big hit of spark.  Summit of jegs unless you want to get raped on price - but there may be a closing of that gap if you can get a deal. 

I'd consider making my own if I knew how to weld.
 
Might organise an exhaust soon, getting tired of driving an XF with a standard exhaust, it's a little too quiet for my liking

Set timing, as the guys above have.said.
 
If you still run rough, tune the carb. If you can't tune it, rebuild it. A kit should cost around 70 bucks

You'll want to reco the motor to get the most out of any mod you do to it.
 
What sort of conditions is it burning oil under? 
 
You could do intake and exhaust now if you like, as you can unbolt these to put on a fresher motor. But you'll only want to put a cam into a healthy motor.

You're welcome to ask as many questions as you like here Ando81, this thread is open to input from all ozfalcon users
 
If you want a cheap setup, just get yourself a solid state pump off ebay, new fuel lines and hose clamps if needed. Plumb it all in, earth the pump, and take 12v feed from the fuel cut solenoid 12v feed, or wire it to a switch you manually control.
 
The above will get you from A to B and C (I haven't tried D yet) if plumbed and wired properly. Might be a bit heavy on fuel usage but probably not a issue for you as you use LPG most of the time.
 
I run this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e&_uhb=1
 
I have it mounted roughly where the mechanical pump goes. It makes a bit of noise when you switch the pump on, but seems to quieten down a bit once it gets fuel flowing through it, I barely hear it, if at all. while the car is running.

You're welcome to ask as many questions as you like here Ando81, this thread is open to input from all ozfalcon users
 
If you want a cheap setup, just get yourself a solid state pump off ebay, new fuel lines and hose clamps if needed. Plumb it all in, earth the pump, and take 12v feed from the fuel cut solenoid 12v feed, or wire it to a switch you manually control.
 
The above will get you from A to B and C (I haven't tried D yet) if plumbed and wired properly. Might be a bit heavy on fuel usage but probably not a issue for you as you use LPG most of the time.
 
I run this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-12-volt-Solid-State-4-to-6psi-130-LPH-Petrol-Universal-New-/130721428894?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6f9ab59e&_uhb=1
 
I have it mounted roughly where the mechanical pump goes. It makes a bit of noise when you switch the pump on, but seems to quieten down a bit once it gets fuel flowing through it, I barely hear it, if at all. while the car is running.

Good tips in here.
 
I use white vinegar to soak dirty metal parts in. Soak them overnight and you can get them reasonably clean with a light scrub.
 
WD40 works good for cleaning your hands after working on a car. Then finish up with whatever cleaner you usually use.

Hose clamps have been added to all ends of the fuel line
 
Fixed a  fuel leak at the reg, and fuel pressure is now at just above 4 psi. Car is idling almost smooth now (idle was a bit erratic previously)  No problems on a the short roadtest I did. Just need to set the air.fuel mix now.