Unlucky8Ball

Thanks for that, will hunt down the Ellerys manual.

Cheers, had a look at my gearbox and it probably works like it should, though to get into reverse doesn't need much of a push, more of a gentle nudge. The Gregorys manual has bugger all detail about this gearbox, is there a better service manual out there?

Hi all, Got a single rail to do a manual swap, but have never used this gearbox before. It goes through the gears fine, but the shifter doesn't spring back to the middle, say from between 3rd and 4th, or out of reverse. Is this normal, or is something wrong here? Cheers

Thanks for the help and the correction about the cable clutch. It looks like some people have fitted a later Falcon clutch master cylinder to XPs, so will look into that. Any idea about gearbox crossmember location and tailshaft length?

Hi, Does anyone know what the specs (thread and length) are for the banjo bolts for the Girlock front callipers on an XE falcon? Cheers

It may not be too close for you but I got my rusted through floorpans fixed by John Spano in Hornsby, old school guy who seems to know a thing about rust repairs on older cars.

It came out of an XT I think, that makes it early?

Hi all, Got a C4 behind a 302 Windsor in an XP that's playing up, and want to swap it out for a single rail 4spd. I've heard that that the Clevo bellhousing fits a Windsor, can I use the whole lot from a donor car including the flywheel and everything? Do I need a different trans crossmember, and did any single rails for V8 come with a cable clutch? Cheers

Stupid question: Should it open or close when vacuum is applied?

Took it to an A/C shop who inspected it and told me there surprisingly weren't any issues with the system, regassed it and I have working aircon now. Cheers all

What's the best way to test for TDC without specialised equipment? I've read about putting a long screwdriver down the spark plug hole in cylinder #1 and seeing when it hits the top, is that reliable enough for this purpose?

I'll get around the checking where TDC sits soon, but I was inspecting the distributor just then and noticed that there's a hissing sound (like a vacuum leak) coming from it - it stops at certain points in the distributor's adjustment. It's a TFI distributor, so no vacuum advance. Could this have something to do with it?

Hi everyone, My EFI ZL has a weird thing going on with the ignition timing, it's had a rough idle since I bought it which I thought was a vacuum leak. Tested for it and replaced all the vacuum accessory lines but no luck. Then I took it onto a freeway with a full car and noticed it was pinging pretty hard, and soon enough the temperature gauge hit the top end and had to pull over. Checked at home with a timing light, and the timing mark is so far advanced it's off the scale. But when I adjusted it to be 10 degrees at idle with SPOUT connector off, it barely even idles when in D with the brakes held down. Haven't owned an EFI car before, and have no clue what controls the ignition timing or what could cause it to do this. Bad distributor? ECU? Cheers

This is my first how to - no guarantees, no liability, blah blah. Just wanted to share what I figured out. NOTE: These instructions assume that your central locking system works - or at least, well enough that the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch on the driver's door will lock/unlock all the doors. The key switches in the doors are a common point of failure, and a bad key switch will prevent the whole central locking system from functioning. An easy workaround is to connect the green and white wires in the key-switch plug to each other, bypassing the key switch. First, get a keyless entry kit. I got this el-cheapo kit for under $20 from eBay - you don't need one with actuators, since it will be spliced into the factory wiring. (1) Remove the driver's door switch panel to make some modifications to the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch: ( a ) Cut the two metal strips joining the window switches to the lock switch ( b ) Cut the metal strip joining the two corner pins of the lock switch. ( c ) Join the other (window switch side) ends of the two metal strips cut in step (a) with a wire or something. ( d ) Attach new wires to the two corner pins of the lock switch (these will go to the keyless module) (2) Run a length of figure-eight wire from the driver's kick panel to the driver's door switch panel, and connect them to the new wires added in ( d ) using whatever connectors are handy. I used the speaker cable grommet holes to feed the wire through. (3) For this kit, the wiring on the remote box side is done according to the instructions for a "Central Lock Motor (Two Wire)". Refer to the wiring colours in your keyless entry kit's instructions, as they may be different. In my case, I connected the red, yellow/black and blue wires to a +12V source (the yellow wire behind the boot release switch) and the black, green and grey cables to ground. The yellow and brown cables connect up to the two cores of the figure-eight wire added in (2). If the door locking and unlocking buttons on your remote do the wrong thing, swap the two wires around. (4) The boot release feature on the remote box grounds the orange wire coming out of it. As the actual boot release switch on the car needs +12v fed into the purple wire, wire up a relay as follows, and splice it into the purple wire behind the boot release switch: (5) Wire the two purple wires (+12v output for flashing indicator) to the indicator wires under the steering column - green and green/blue. Then tuck everything in the kick panel and you're good to go!

Thanks, I might take it to an A/C shop to get looked at first. Does anyone know of any shops in Sydney that use Hychill gas? Also, do these fittings mean it was converted to R134a at some point?