nos2

MAKE SURE IF YOU NOTCH THE OLD LOWER SUPPORT YOU plate it up and paint it ,so no bastard but you know

The EF head flows 217cfm, the log flows 197cfm the BBM flowed 186cfm. All tested at 28in.

I flow tested a BBM and a Log manifold on the same head today which was a EF 94ab head, the Log manifold outflowed the BBM by 11cfm. Just thought you guys would be interested in that.

Yes. And none of us are going to pitch in to purchase and burn it. So you'll be stuck with it.

This might get you started:
 

 

 

 

 
Are you installing the entire dash assembly? A lot of the harness is integral with the dash assembly. This fact results in none of the wiring harness being visible on the engine side of the bulkhead - unlike XFs or E-series cars. When I did mine...I installed the entire XG dash assy...makes life ship-loads easier! The ECU side of the harness (passenger side can be fed from the engine bay into the cabin through a hole in the bulkhead. With EST equipped XFs...the hole is bigger and you can feed the ECU connector through it. On earlier vehicles it is quite a bit smaller and life will become harder for you. On the drivers side, the engine bay harness feeds through another hole in the bulkhead where a number of connectors mesh with the dash assy loom. You really need the dash wiring in place. Easier, as I mentioned earlier if you've got the XG dash assy - fits straight into XFs with no particular issues - it's general format is common with the XF. The XG loom passes the passenger side of the engine where it services engine sensors, injectors (ie. the engine harness), aircon, LH headlight/indicators. Elements of it pass under the radiator support panel where it joins the driver's side of the loom. The drivers side services the alternator, RH headlight, relay block amongst other things.

Fix it or this will happen

yes i have used the internet to learn about cars but not this, more about when i've forgotten a spark plug gap, or am having an issue i cant work out.
 
i learn't how to rebuild/work on cars by someone who knew what they were doing, he is a licensed mechanic, skill & knowledge wise he is in the top 5% of mechanics in the country, hes forgotten more than most mechanics will ever know that i can guarantee. not many people had workshop experience at under 8 years old like i did, and i am quite aware of that, i am trying to help you so don't take it as an attack.
 
im not rich, infact quite the opposite, but you are asking some very basic questions about a lot of very serious components of the car, it is clear from your understanding that you do not know what you are doing, rather then be arrogant and DIY, be smart, and possibly save yourself some serious pain.
 
i see this stuff go sideways all the time, this is not something you should be attempting on your own. if you don't know the basic names for the parts, its not likely you have the skill or understanding the importance of doing them right.
 
again, im not having a go at you, im trying to help.
yes i agree a picture says a thousand words, but you don't actually realise what you have shown.
 
by the way, if your in VIC send me a PM and i'll see what i can do parts wise.
you not having the skill to repair this, is not your fault, maybe it came across as offensive but that was not my intent. you do not posses the skills to do this job safely, and it isn't worth the risk. infact risking it shows a lot of arrogance and immaturity.
 
if you want help, ask people on here if they are mechanics by trade and in your area, who knows you might be lucky, give them some cash or the likes, and they will teach you. that is the proper way of learning, if i went through the checklist for even a simple pad change, it would be well over 2000 words in detail. or half an hour of explaining face to face and things to look for etc there is too much involved to be written down on a simple 10 lines of text.
 
there is a lot of knowledge behind what you are doing, you don't realise for example, there is probably 2 tonnes of load on an upper balljoint under standard cornering.
 
im looking out for you, not trying to disinterest you. id much rather a job done properly then have to deal with the aftermath of a simple mistake. a  poor man pays twice. do it once, do it the right way and you are sweet.
 
let us know what you want to do to the car, how you plan to use it in the future, and we will advise.

I'd daresay the majority of people on here bought their x series and checked/replaced the lower ball joints, uppers, tie rod ends, sway bar bushes and castor bushes. Its one of the first things you need to do to these cars to keep them handling well and safe.
 
Definitely something that needs to be done to register a car.
 
But there's no way your spring would need replacing, they're not something that really wears, most that would happen is they sag.

This! Lol

can't work out if this is a troll or not...
if it's not, do not fix this yourself. the fact you had to google the issue shows your inexperience, meaning its not safe for you to repair this yourself.
 
your maintenance schedule must be up shocking for the ball joint to get that bad.
 
older vehicles do not need weekly checks, what they need is someone who knows what they are doing to service the car. these things rarely randomly fall apart, and when they do its usually either due to extreme circumstances or cheap parts.
part of every service should be going over the car, its easy to spot wear and tear items these should have been spotted long ago, also pic 2 is swaybar link pins. yes they need replacing.
 
the front end is not a strut front end, its a shock absorber, strut holds the spring and shock as one unit, shock absober is seperate, and yes if they are leaking that is a major issue, but again this can be felt in normal driving.
 
doesnt matter if a car is new or old, when you buy it, you go over it from top to bottom work out what needs replacing/tightening and get it done, from then on maintenance is periodic.
 
please, for your own safety and the safety of others around you, take this to a licensed mechanic to be repaired.
going by the looks of what you have thrown up. im going to give you an honest suggestion, rebuild the suspension all the way through the car, front to back, new bushes, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, rotors and pads. do not skimp on quality.
 
DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF!!!

Easy as to do.
You need :
Gear box
Pedal box
Flywheel
Clutch and clutch cable
Spigot bearing
Transmission hump
Loom for gearbox
Beer.
 
It's a pretty simple job mate. Allow yourself 3 days and take your time.

Or just leave the column and swap the bottom and top plastics over like this

Truckloads. Neighbours loved it last night straight off extractors. We got a test n tune street down the road here in Kwinana that I might test its powerskid capabilitys on. Then Wednesday night might take to Woop Ass Wednesday at Kwinana Motorplex and see its 1/4 mile time

picked up a set of extractors for the car and fitted them over the last 2 days.
engine mount off completly and lift engine up to fit them.. other than that and a quick buff of bellhousing with grinder. they slipped in no worries...
 

Including axle bearings and seals, you're probably looking at $180 just in parts. Add a diff hat gasket plus machining the cones, and $550 sounds quite reasonable. Some mobs up here in Sydney want $650 for a "checked and cleaned" centre (supply only) with bearings installed.

Option 2 sounds good man. I know the bearings cost a fair bit hey
 
Sent from my SM-T315 using Tapatalk

So you want to go from xg to au? Correct?
In what car?

vct or non vct?, you can't fit a tin sump to an au engine without changing the timing cover (will cause issues if you want to run at au loom and ecu) and rear main cap (I wouldn't do that without getting the block line bored, it would also need to be a late El engine that had an au crank and rods as au have a larger main journal on the crank), an xg sway bar will clear an au sump most of the time although some cars you have to space the sway bay down to clear

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2883-Brilliant-value-for-money-Trolley-Jack
Brilliant value for money Trolley Jack

Come here with 3k you can have the 200rod engine out of my yellow car ill never use it im blown now  

specs 200rod crossy, 10.5 comp, 218@ cam, basic head and springs,  ballanced, 4barrel and 465 holley, stock grafhed dissy and steel gear, engines got less then 4000kn on it can see running and drive. burns tyres easy but will not turn past 5500 the cams to small. would be making 170 200rwhp at a guess does need a much bigger cam but its low end power is brutal

not looking for offers cause its a turn key engine with all the sorting done for you  

yeah I think the heater/AC controls have little downlamps from memory? Shift quadrant lamp? Plenty of sources in that area other than the cluster lamps anyway.
 
BTW I installed blue LED wedges in my cluster illumination and it looks smick

Oh, and keep away from circuit breakers, they aren't the most reliable way to go, and when it comes to power, you don't wanna risk it.
Can't go past proper fusing.
Fusible links aren't hard to find, try a local car audio specialist or auto electrician, failing that id check EvilBay...

How about this...there are ALOT of threads on peoples builds and alot of researching old mate can do as he has found Glenn's combo anyway and asked the same question on 2 forums.Let him do some of his own research and advise of what he can can't and is willing to do before everyone has a 4-5 page argument over what can and can't happen...in the real world.

Lol

I'd use 0 gauge to a distribution block. But that's what I'd do. Others will chime in im sure..