nos2

yeah mate I'm just too old school and I love my x flows.  can't come at this modern technology stuff.
 
well that is not entirely true - I'm playing with a Honda VTEC powered mini FFS so I am not completely blind.  Just when it comes to old fords and x flows am I totally blind. lol. 
 
Don't get me wrong - I like what you are doing with your BA motor - that is the way it should be done.  EFI and a good computer. 
 
would I bother converting a BA motor to carby - answer is still no. 

It's good to see someone fckin with a factory shifter to improve. Think I've got 3 laying around here somewhere. Welcome to them if you like.

Everyone's pretty familiar with the good old Borgie 5-speed but I wanted to share a couple of tweaks I've done to mine.
 
First of all, the shift throw. From a performance driver's point of view, the stock Ford shifter leaves a bit to be desired in this department. All of the aftermarket T5 short-shifters use the same concept: move the pivot point higher to reduce required movement at the gear knob. This also firms up the shift. I went with the same concept and this is how I went about it:

I've kept the shifter body stock but made up some Nylon plates to space it up by about an inch.
To make the stick longer, I dismantled, cut and extended the bottom part by the same amount as the thickness of the spacers. I used a cut up grade 8 bolt and MIGed it in. Voila.... Short-shifter!
 
One drama was the clearance issues inside the tunnel on my EF once I spaced the shifter body up, but a hammer soon fixed that. If I were to do it all again, I'd ditch the spacers and cut and shut the housing itself to extend the ball pivot upwards. Now the gate....
 
The one thing that shitted me the most about my T5 was the 2-3 shift. It would always get hung up on the gate going into 3rd when trying to snap a quick change. Left me looking like a dickhead when trying to beat that shitty Honda at the lights and end up missing 3rd gear.
 
Part of the problem is in the fact that these boxes are a yank design purely with left hand drive in mind. The shift gates are straight up and down with very little lead-in from neutral position. In a LHD car the 2-3 shift action is more natural in that you're pushing the stick directly away from you. In RHD, you're pushing the stick across your body as well as further away, resulting in less strength and precision.This is how the stock shift guide plate looks:
As you can see the gates are the same top to bottom (except going into 5th) yet nobody ever shifts from 4th to 1st. Instead of resembling a "H" pattern, it should really be more like a "Z". A more suitable shape would have a chamfered gate on 2nd toward 3rd and also on 3rd coming from 2nd.
 
Remember the pattern is reversed on the bottom side of the gearstick. 1st gate is bottom right, 2nd top right, 3rd is bottom centre.
 
I got to work with my Dremel and this is the result:
 
I've actually taken a bee's dick more off since the photo but you get the drift. It has helped a lot but the problem also lies inside the box where the gates on the fork selector might also be a little tight. Proof will be in the pudding when this goes behind my Clevo, hopefully very soon.
 
Any other tweaks people know of please share

I have nothing to add apart from im swaping 3 of my engines around to get the airgap off one of my V8 cortys for my new engine 

Im liking your  power level thats what im aiming for out of my ute at about 6000 that will be enough grunt to smash all of the drivline in it

I second a build thread on this thing, comon show us

Tuff xg build thread coming soon?

Personally I would swap the open spider gear carrier for the lsd carrier, using the original gears and diff housing your car came with plus it gives you the chance to inspect the lsd before you install it, that is of course if your red wagon allready has a 2.77 diff as 2.77 housings are a little different from the other ratios

Beat ya lol

Baddest xflow around...

I have to ask if its only leaking water why are we machining the head? i poped 2 on my ghia and never once milled the head. Its not warped from over heating its just leaking water
 
A little off topic why did you remove your head to do a cam change? was it just easyer?

90m2 truck shed would be mint

Shit in your ice cream... Hahah

Hi folks there seems to be a lot of knowledge out there on this conversion but it's hard to find solid info on it. I thought I'd kick things off with my T5 - Clevo conversion.
 
Starting out with a C5TA (1965 Truck) factory cast bell to suit a wide-pattern toploader:
 

 
Left side with T5 box:
 

 
Right side:
 

 
Holes marked & pilot drilled:
 

 
So as you can see the top two holes are too close to the old ones and are definite weak spots, compounded by the fact that they also don't have bosses cast for them. They'd be lucky to have 1/4" of meat to thread into. From the good advice from folks on here, I'll try and silver solder them in a makeshift furnace and solder some studs in as well. I've drilled and tapped M12x1.75 threads for them. This is a mock-up using some M12 set screws wound in from the inside:
 

 
Next step is to find some studs that are the right length and solder them in as well as plug the top two factory holes with cut-off 7/16 bolts and solder them in too.

Wow that's really shit in your ice cream hasn't it?

I've got one on my racecar that I machined so theres just enough to bolt the clutch to so maybe 5 or 6mm left on it haha. Made it heaps lighter, did it on a brake lathe. Havent had any dramas yet with it....

Thats almost the same as whats in my ute. They dont slip much and thats not the best for my ute cause i tow with it, but other then that a very good clutch you cant slip it even a 3rd gear dump it will just torch the tyres 
 
I 3rd the 6 bolt conversion i did not do that on my first solid engine and i ripped the clutch plate off the flywheel

Despite moving the axle centreline higher above the spring (creating more leverage to cause spring wind-up), I think axle tramp should be overall reduced as you're drastically firming up the spring.
 
If you're worried about ride quality, give the springs a bit of a grease-up between leaves, then wipe off and paint over the lot. Leaf springs ride so much better when they can slide nicely over each other when working.

Give it a crack yourself mate, it's really not that hard. Have a look on fordmods for a cam swap doco. Set the vernier 0, your tuner will adjust that

Once you've finished, post skid vids.

Pull the chip and see if it fixes the problem issue? my xr6 did it when it was boosted and manual thorm is on the right parth but 
 
I gather your not running a manual ECU? if so i dont think the j3 will let you pull it out but try it anyway im sure you will have to plug the swith in like thorm said it will not work without it and the speed sensor 

this is another reason why i dont have a Xcar with a 4litre in it there prooblemish enough in a boxcar, opps did i say that out loud

But anyway pull the chip and try it, it was the issue in mine

Edit more info since the last post

The V8 tacho i dont think will like you, i think the speed sensor is somhow controled by it and it hates you for changing it it may not be a issue but if the chip will not fix it look there and hook the auto stuff up even thow its manual

So many issues come from not running the manual ecu fords are brain dead without them  

Thats land fill bring it here ill despose of it for you

Some pics with the shitty hub caps gone
 
 
Cortina for life

hmm how can one till if the engine is in Limp mode with a manual trans? i though limp mode only occurred on engines with an auto and meant the tranny was stuck in 3rd. I've also got the J3 clip to remove limp mode all together.

Once you've finished, post skid vids.