Stevemack

Thanks, Stevemack, saved me hours looking for those hidden bolts.
4 x 14mm socket in the boot, 2 x 10mm socket under the guards, and had to remove the mudflaps. Drilled out the rivets that hold it to the wheel well, and off she came. Jobs done.
Slipped down to U-pull-it, (pick-a-part) and holy crap.!!!  a dark blue Fairlane, with rear bumper still attatched.
Gotta get lucky sometimes..........
 
Just to got to clean and polish the old thing, then she'll be on the market.

Two each side in the boot under rubber grommets, one 10mm under each side guard, pop rivets underneath into spare wheel well.

Give 5 star tooling in Dandenong a call.

I usually ring people as most times web sites are dated. To say they don't do under driven balancers on the web site means nothing as I sold atleast 20 of em on here.
 
Ross and Atomic do em as well but I suggest you will not buy off them... LOL

Did you set both engines on TDC before removing the head?

theres not enough info to realy help. if you have set the engine on tdc and cable tied the chain to the gear if it does not line up you know its the head and just turn the cam till its in the right spot and refit if you have not done that you will have to line the chain up with the engine on tdc and try again

It is only money, we are planning to have none for a while

I have a kit of bfxr8 brakes onto my xb. But i diddnt purchase the kit new. All it is, is a machined bracket though.. easy to get made

Bare bones now. Time to weld on some more cage and bog some dents.

You are going to pull the old stickers off aren't you - LOL
 
Are you going to pull the front and rear windows out to paint it, it is worthwhile if you intend to paint the inside as well, we regret not doing it to ours
 
Hazel said that you had sent a pic to her phone, she is laid up in bed with a bad back, best I go and look now - yep same pic

Ok so I went down to "start" work on the racecar, then I got enthused and decided on a full rebuild with haltech and turbo to start with. 240 at the wheels at the moment, looking to get 300 to 350 when finished. More pics to come.

Ok so I went down to "start" work on the racecar, then I got enthused and decided on a full rebuild with haltech and turbo to start with. 240 at the wheels at the moment, looking to get 300 to 350 when finished. More pics to come.

Ok so I went down to "start" work on the racecar, then I got enthused and decided on a full rebuild with haltech and turbo to start with. 240 at the wheels at the moment, looking to get 300 to 350 when finished. More pics to come.

Clean all the old sealant off 100% and then apply a nice neat continuous bead of sikaflex or similar in the join. Remember more does not equal better.

Pressure control solenoid s5 sounds like its playing up, but the s2 may also cause the same issue and may also be why it ties up in the shift as well

No engine breaking will likely be the inhibitor switch

The lock up convertor sound like a issue with the 1 way clutch its mostey the o ring is damaged on a older trans in a car that's showing on off issues or a speed sensor issue

Theres so much to these transmissions its not funny

Im doing one now and ive had the valve body out 3 times now its going limp mode but its shifting hard to and ive swaped the vps and the s2 and its still doing it I think its a hub issue cause the box has metal in it

Another thing if you open the box and theres a lot of metal in it id just replace it theres a lot that can go worng with them s5 spring can break and a front servo issue can also cause the same thing  
 

you should see this once you take the housing off

 
if you see this, you need to get one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351C-Bypass-Restrictor-Plate-Solid-Brass-Pantera-Mustang-All-Other-Clevelands-/171476456933?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27eccb15e5&vxp=mtr
 

 
 
thermostat should be a dayco DT66A

I prefer the steel shaft, know of a couple of ally ones that broke behind manuals and one in a car with an auto and high stall, I broke an ally one doing a roll back in a paddock bomb

Yes. You must run a thermostat, and the brass restrictor plate (under that). Coolant runs too fast through the radiator, and doesn't have time to cool down. The thermostat isn't there for the heater, it's to warm up the block to operating temperature. Opposite to that is running too cold, makes the oil sludgy.
 
Ignition timing may be the issue, as pro250 stated.

No thermostat = cavitation in your water pump. It needs a restriction to pump against (ie the thermostat) otherwise the flow is unregulated. Instead of pumping, the impeller spins around in a vacuum bubble and does nothing. Try putting a thermostat in and see how you go.

turn the timing up 10 degrees and go for another easy drive and see if it stops

another thing you can look for is the brass restrictor plate under the thermostat if that's missing is will have the same issue

you could always just reverse a pair of stock cast manifold and get someone to weld up a flange to suit what ever turbo you are going to use, it would be very easy to do a twin turbo setup like this plumbing would be fairly simply.

GRA are way better than anything else on the market IMO, had one for 14 years, you need to get it tuned properly (metering rod machined) about once every 4 years, but otherwise you never have to put a spanner on them!  Instant power, impcos i have found can get flat spots and need regular adjsutments to keep them at their optimum.  Go GRA mate, you won't look back.

Can't help you with a vac diagram, but i can give you a tip.  These things have a heap of adjustments that should be done in order, unless you know what they are, leave it under the bench.

LSD clutch pack?
 
Diff mounts?
 
Trailing arm bushes?
 
Tailshaft?

undo the engine bolts, lift the engine up about 25 - 30mm, put some good quality blocks of wood under the engine mounts, this will keep the engine up in the air, no need to disconnect anything to do with the engine, 25-30mm shouldn't hurt anything
 
Then take off the sway bar and the sump should be easy to get out

Polson is in the right track, its was very much Incorrect machining, a hardened distributor gear will solve this problem, Crow Cams make the gear to suit, part no. DG2
 
I bought this gear not long after i rebuilt the engine in my BnS basher back in July 2011, 3 years later and no problems since