EgoXF

My custom bench seat


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Been a longgg time since I’ve been on here! For the most part it’s been a running truck for the past 2 years
Still working on it heaps though!
I’ve literally done stuff to every bit of the truck with the exception of paint.
There’s a pic of it now with my custom/cripple friendly ramp and a pic of a war torn XF on the back!



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We won't work out prices until the mold is made but I'll keep you guys updated. Unfortunately it's a fair way down the list at the moment as we have a tonne of parts on order and a lot of molds to make but we should get there early next year

Not trying to get a free plug or anything but i just thought i would mention that we are actually in the process of starting a mold for X series tailgates as my boss and his son are building an XG ute for hillclimbs and street use. I had the same thoughts about using a fiberglass skin over the steel ones because as people have mentioned we can make the glass really thick while keeping it light. In fact it should be better than steel because I doubt it would crack from a towball impact where steel would dent and buckle.

Not trying to get a free plug or anything but i just thought i would mention that we are actually in the process of starting a mold for X series tailgates as my boss and his son are building an XG ute for hillclimbs and street use. I had the same thoughts about using a fiberglass skin over the steel ones because as people have mentioned we can make the glass really thick while keeping it light. In fact it should be better than steel because I doubt it would crack from a towball impact where steel would dent and buckle.

Should stretch with a bit of heat
 
 
 
 
That's what he said...

If anyones interested i found a product that should do the job perfect at clarke rubber. They call it "Sponge extrusion self adhesive blister 16x12mm" part no. 31633, was $11.95/m. I bought 1.8m, but 1.6 will do the job easy.
 
Here's the stuff
 

 
Trial fitted this piece this arvo and it fits perfect, the rib at the top seals on the underside of the bonnet like it was meant for it.
 
I'll put up a pic when i clean up the area and install it.

Ok time to start a thread on THOR, my idea of the ultimate aspo crossflow. This is the engine that will be powering my new TD Cortina drag car venture.
 
Here is a brief run down on THOR's specs;
 
Triple 45mm webers (soon to be converted to E85)
Tighe - Solid roller cam
Heavily ported C2A head
86da block
Modified EF crank
Ross Forged 200 rod pistons
Spool Forged 200 conrods
 
Anyway I have had this formula in my head for a long time and I collected all the bits and pieces and now its time to assemble the monster that will become THOR.

I like the way this bloke has done the taillights & garnish on his ed xr6 looks similar to fc fd ltd tail lights, the rest of the car looks awesome too
 
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I think my turning circle could be improved with an LSD.

My xf has the turning circle to rival a oil tanker...

Puts some primer on it so it doesnt rust during the week!

Done..... Just need to smooth it out with a bit of 2000wd then clear coat & put hér back on the FD.not bad for spray cans.

i did with my front bar on the ute the second time i painted it. The first time i hit a gutter the paint bassicaly shattered and flaked off, but after we added the flex aid stuff it never had an issue again. Not untill i hit the wallaby anyway

Yeah at tafe they called it "plasticiser". Any flexible panel including fibreglass should have it in the paint.

i did with my front bar on the ute the second time i painted it. The first time i hit a gutter the paint bassicaly shattered and flaked off, but after we added the flex aid stuff it never had an issue again. Not untill i hit the wallaby anyway

i did with my front bar on the ute the second time i painted it. The first time i hit a gutter the paint bassicaly shattered and flaked off, but after we added the flex aid stuff it never had an issue again. Not untill i hit the wallaby anyway

+1 for the CAM paintstripper. 
scratch the paint to the metal about 10cm apart over the whole panel, run a bit of 2" tape about 10-15mm around the edge of the panel, brush a generous amount on then cover it with plastic the $1 painters plastic sheets from bunnings a great for this. go do something for an hour or so then scrape it all off. 
To clean it off just use thinners and a scotch pad then go over it with 80grit to finish the edges and key the metal for paint and a final wipe over with clean thinners.
Always wear eye and skin protection too 

That's where it ends.
Opinions are like arseholes,i wont have a falcon canning (or au canning)thread on this falcon forum.

I'm not sure this will end well.
Looks are very subjective.
Au's may be "ugly" but they've aged better than anything from that era,and are the most reliable car ever built in this country.

On the dyno...
 

Well there you go. Ford really didn't like change back then.

i brought one about five years ago and it looks and fits fine. there's no ripples or anything in it so im more than happy. unfortunately i don't remember the brand so this isn't much help to you but i think the key is too not buy the cheapest one on there haha

Here you go.
These are 2 pics of mine. (i looked for the wheel this morning)
I had to file down the front of the factory blinker cancel mechanism so it would sit flush on the boss kit 
then attached it with some gaffa tape and presto it worked. Sat in the factory plastic column surounds 
and canceled the blinker per normal.